I have a 2003 GTX-4 with 250 hours on it, used in freshwater.
I recently had some work done on it.
The motor was losing oil (not burning it, just losing it). The mechanic replaced the PTO Boot and Bearing, changed the plugs, oil, oil filter and added a brass seacock to the water intake pipe so that I could tow the ski without having to pinch the hose. Apparently the retainer had to be cut off of the drive shaft.
This is part of the invoice detailing the parts used which may provide a better indication of the actual work performed:
Labor - Hour 3.0
Brass Shut-Off Valve - Valve 1.0
Seadoo Driveshaft Retainer Ring Kit - Carbon Ring, Retainer, Clip, and O-rings
NGK Spark Plug - DCPR8E 3.0
Seadoo 4-Tec Oil Filter - KN-556 1.0
Seadoo 4-Tec Oil Filter Cap Update - Aluminum Oil FIlter Cap Update 1.0
Castrol 10w-40 Engine Oil - API SG -JASO MA-2 3.0
Seadoo 4-TEC PTO Bellows & Bearing 1.0
After running the ski maybe 45 mins over 2 weekends (more than half of which was at idle speed going in at out of the marina) it started to smoke and I discovered the oil was milkshaked.
The mechanic that performed the work came out and took it back to his shop.
After doing some diagnostics he pinpointed the cause of the water in the oil as a cracked/leaking exhaust intake manifold and sent this:
The Exhaust Manifold has an internal crack or break that is allowing raw water to be pumped into the exhaust passage when the engine is running. The exhaust pipe and manifold then drain into engine when turned off; and the oil and water turn milky when started again. I pressure tested the entire cooling system, and the exhaust pipe was the only part that failed and held no pressure at all; the Heat Ex-changer, Coolant Pump, Engine Oil Cooler all held pressure accordingly. Compression Test (#1) 165psi (#2) 165psi (#3) 160
Leak Down Test 95-97psi of 100psi
The bad news is I will need to pull the engine to replace it.
I haven't been able to get a picture of crack yet. The only reason I can think that it would crack is saltwater usage, a poor casting from factory maybe, once we see the crack it will tell. The manifold is cast iron, so it would take some super high temperature to crack it from just heat alone.
The saltwater usage he is referring to is from years ago by a previous owner that would take it on vacation, it wasnt kept in saltwater.
My question to the forum is, could this be a result of the work that was performed just prior to it failing? It would seem highly coincidental to me that the exhaust manifold would fail just after a valve is installed on the hose that sends water to cool it. It would also seem like a manufacturing defect would have caused a problem way before now.
Any insight that could be provided would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
I recently had some work done on it.
The motor was losing oil (not burning it, just losing it). The mechanic replaced the PTO Boot and Bearing, changed the plugs, oil, oil filter and added a brass seacock to the water intake pipe so that I could tow the ski without having to pinch the hose. Apparently the retainer had to be cut off of the drive shaft.
This is part of the invoice detailing the parts used which may provide a better indication of the actual work performed:
Labor - Hour 3.0
Brass Shut-Off Valve - Valve 1.0
Seadoo Driveshaft Retainer Ring Kit - Carbon Ring, Retainer, Clip, and O-rings
NGK Spark Plug - DCPR8E 3.0
Seadoo 4-Tec Oil Filter - KN-556 1.0
Seadoo 4-Tec Oil Filter Cap Update - Aluminum Oil FIlter Cap Update 1.0
Castrol 10w-40 Engine Oil - API SG -JASO MA-2 3.0
Seadoo 4-TEC PTO Bellows & Bearing 1.0
After running the ski maybe 45 mins over 2 weekends (more than half of which was at idle speed going in at out of the marina) it started to smoke and I discovered the oil was milkshaked.
The mechanic that performed the work came out and took it back to his shop.
After doing some diagnostics he pinpointed the cause of the water in the oil as a cracked/leaking exhaust intake manifold and sent this:
The Exhaust Manifold has an internal crack or break that is allowing raw water to be pumped into the exhaust passage when the engine is running. The exhaust pipe and manifold then drain into engine when turned off; and the oil and water turn milky when started again. I pressure tested the entire cooling system, and the exhaust pipe was the only part that failed and held no pressure at all; the Heat Ex-changer, Coolant Pump, Engine Oil Cooler all held pressure accordingly. Compression Test (#1) 165psi (#2) 165psi (#3) 160
Leak Down Test 95-97psi of 100psi
The bad news is I will need to pull the engine to replace it.
I haven't been able to get a picture of crack yet. The only reason I can think that it would crack is saltwater usage, a poor casting from factory maybe, once we see the crack it will tell. The manifold is cast iron, so it would take some super high temperature to crack it from just heat alone.
The saltwater usage he is referring to is from years ago by a previous owner that would take it on vacation, it wasnt kept in saltwater.
My question to the forum is, could this be a result of the work that was performed just prior to it failing? It would seem highly coincidental to me that the exhaust manifold would fail just after a valve is installed on the hose that sends water to cool it. It would also seem like a manufacturing defect would have caused a problem way before now.
Any insight that could be provided would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
