Exhaust Gas Temperature overheating P2428

[MDH19]

Hello All, I had an alarm and error code on my 2012 seadoo wake 210, 430. The Boat goes into “limp home” mode and the alarm stays on. The P2428 code says it can be either a faulty exhaust temperature sensor, cooling system blockage, or improperly calibrated exhaust injection valve, or damaged circuits wires. There doesn't seem to be any water system blockage that I can observe or and visibly damaged wires. I can’t find the “exhaust injection valve” on the boat or in the Manuel. Does anyone know where it is located and how to calibrate? Any other suggestions?

 

[MacSeaDoo]

The exhaust injection valve is just the fitting on the exhaust stand pipe where water is injected. (The brass fitting in the pictures)

The water fills the hollow part of the stand pipe which has holes that exit it into the can.

To check it you need to pull the whole can assy. Out like in my picture.

If you have an obstruction, the water flow will not be enough to cool the exhaust.

Do you have a laser thermometer? If you do, just shoot the stand pipe and exhaust compared to the other side.

If it is much hotter, you are not getting water. If they are the same, replace the temp sensor.

 

[MDH19]

Thank you very much for the reply, this is very helpful. I will test temperature differential as you suggest. If the exhaust injection valve is just a fitting, how is it calibrated - or is the manual simply incorrect when it says to check for proper calibration? Also, I did notice I have a small hole at the bottom of the can that leaks a little exhaust water which I will repair post season. Could this contribute to over heating?

 

[MDH19]

BTW, here is the reference to the valve: Perhaps its referring to the fuel or air injection valves that may effect the mix???

 

[MDH19]

Sorry, I copied the wrong image in the previous post.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

From what I understand, there is no adjustment of this valve, it is simply a fitting with a hole in it.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

Thank you very much for the reply, this is very helpful. I will test temperature differential as you suggest. If the exhaust injection valve is just a fitting, how is it calibrated - or is the manual simply incorrect when it says to check for proper calibration? Also, I did notice I have a small hole at the bottom of the can that leaks a little exhaust water which I will repair post season. Could this contribute to over heating?

If your can has a leak in it it can mess up the whole process as the system is designed to be fully pressurized from the exhaust gas. This pressure is what helps to force the water up the riser pipe and over to the waterbox/resonator runny by the temp sensor along the way. The can is designed to always have some water in it. If you have a hole and it can't sustain water, you will have hot dry air passing the temp sensor, which most likely will be beyond the temp limit.

It is crazy how fast these machines go catatonic with heat without water.

Not hard to understand the importance though if you have ever owned motorcycles and have burned yourself on an exhaust can. Imagine that running in basically an enclosed fiberglass box.

 

[MDH19]

Thank you again for the response. It seems I should plug the hole sooner rather than later. I discovered the hole end of last season as i was getting hot water leaking into the bilge but the engine did not over heat. Nonetheless, i will fix it to eliminate the possibility.