Response: Ahhhh! IC now! Ok, couldn't hurt and shouldn't take them any time or effort to pump it up and check it. However if you were leaking coolant into the engine crankcase you would have seen the coolant resevoir level dropping and it would have destroyed the engine bearings in very short order... 1 very fast way to destroy an engine is to add a little antifreeze to the crankcase; it's like running grinding stones against the engine bearings (crank and rod bearings are rapidly eaten away by any antifreeze in your oil).
Answer: The reason I am having them test the cooling system is because we noticed a bluish/ greenish tint to the sparkplugs together with rust corrosion around the threads. If in fact there is a coolant leak, it is extremely minor and it's going to be a challenge to find it. Either way, I am curious to see if the cooling system is able to hold the PSI gauge's needle in place for an extended period of time at whatever normal PSI reading the system is supposed to hold. I have recently seen the coolant reservoir level drop significantly, but that was only because my mechanic switched out the antifreeze and there was air to be worked out, in the system. Certain engine disassembly he had to perform required the draining of the antifreeze. Other than that, I have always noticed the coolant reservoir level to be steady. But nonetheless, the odd bluish/greenish tint on the prongs of the sparkplugs is an indication of something.
Response: Ok but then YOU were the last person to put oil into the engine... and it was 1 quart overfull according to the dealership. Did you not check the oil level on the dipstick after you added 2 quarts back to the crankcase? Whoever last added oil to the crankcase, no matter how much they think they removed, should have checked the oil level on the dipstick to insure it was at the CORRECT oil level. And you were able to visibly watch the water level drop in the clear hoses when you tested the intercooler for leaks.... how long did it take it to leak down in the hoses? That water went somewhere Kefir. Before that you had it running on the trailer (hooked up to a waterhose I presume?) for approximately 10 minutes time, just how much water was it leaking thru the intercooler in that time period? IDK, but at least some water had to have gone into the engine crankcase!
Answer: Checking the proper oil level on these 4-TEC engines can be tricky. You have to make sure that the vessel is level, that the engine has reached normal operating temperature, that you've run the engine for 30 seconds and that you've waited 30 seconds to check the oil after killing the engine. Either way, it was the mechanic that last filled oil in the vessel. I used two identical 1 gallon containers and measured exactly what I took out to what I put in (2 quarts). Knowing that my vessel was not properly operating, I refrained from starting the engine and properly checking oil level. Did not want to cause any more harm if harm was being caused by its operation. As for the intercooler leak, when I performed the pressure test, the leak was very minor with evidence of continuous water droplets coming from two areas of the intercooler. Most if not all of the water collected in the plastic housing of the intake and the watercraft was never tilted in a position where the fresh water could have just oozed right through the throttle body into the engine oil.
Response: So point is, I don't think you can blame the engine oil level on your previous mechanic... I'm not saying he was a good Seadoo mechanic by any means, as a professional mechanic HE should have checked the intercooler and found it leaking NOT you! He was charging you money and sending you away with a SeaDoo which was bound to have engine problems again in short order because of the bad intercooler.
Well we're all just human after all. If the engine is wayyy overfull of oil (and 1 quart is alot, given that it only holds 4.7 quarts of oil total), then yes I'd expect it to be unable to reach full rpm's (because the oil would be being splashed around inside the crankcase, limiting the ability of the engine comonents to move properly) and blow oil out thru the T.O.P.S. valve (which is a simple ball type valve that only closes if the engine finds itself inverted). That molded rubber line that goes from the top of the rear of the engine to the air intake tube near the battery is little more than a crankcase breather line... the air intake is pulling crankcase fumes thru that line into the air stream to burn them inside the enigne, much like automobile engines do. If your T.O.P.S. valve was faulty it would be stuck either stuck open or stuck closed... either it would allow oil to pour into the air intake when the engine is inverted (Yikes!) or it would not be allowing crankcase fumes to be extracted properly when the engine was running. I do not know if there is an electronic sensor monitoring this valve or not... but if it was stuck closed then your engine crankcase would develop pressure inside and may start blowing oil out all the seals (PTO and Supercharger seals would leak) and possibly it could blow your dipstick out the hole to relieve the pressure... with the T.O.P.S. valve stuck closed, there's no other way for the crankcase to vent pressure and fumes.
Answer: When I had the intercooler issue, I posted in the forum that when I exchanged the intercoolers, I noticed that the faulty intercooler was extremely oily to the touch. We speculated that that was because of years of exposure to elements and saltwater. Perhaps, that may not be the case. I am convinced now that due to the engine being overfilled with oil, engine oil is blowing through the tops valve, from the crankcase, into the air intake and through the throttle body and formed hoses! F***! The only thing that is throwing me off is the abnormal tint on the sparkplugs and its root cause? I am going to try to get a high definition picture of them and post it.
Oh the agony!
