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Engine Alignment Question (distance between engine and pump, any criteria)?

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LSaupe

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This spring I will be re-installing my engine (787 in a '97 Challenger).

Aside from the normal shaft tool alignment process, is there any criteria to be followed to set the engine to pump separation distance? Seems like there is a bit of motion possible there (maybe not).

Any concerns in this regard?
 
No need to be concerned about front/back distance. Just left, right, high, low. :cheers:
 
This spring I will be re-installing my engine (787 in a '97 Challenger).

Aside from the normal shaft tool alignment process, is there any criteria to be followed to set the engine to pump separation distance? Seems like there is a bit of motion possible there (maybe not).

Any concerns in this regard?

I hope you have better luck on yours than I did mine this past fall. For some reason, when I bought my boat, I found the pump had washers between the pump and hull, only on the top two studs. I found out why when I went to put my new motor in. With the 787 sitting on the bottom of it's engine mounts, with no shims, it already sat higher than the pump shaft. There was no way to "unshim" the mounts, so the only way to bring the shaft up to meet the PTO, was by using washers on the upper studs of the pump. This was the only way I could get alignment. In hindsight, I have to believe there may have been some damage to the fiberglass at the rear mounts, causing this. Normally, when you put the motor in, the drive shaft to pump will be lower at the PTO, so you have to shim the motor to lift up and meet the shaft. To be vice versa was a pain to work with.

When you set up your alignment tool, you'll bolt the plate to the hull, flat out. Then, when you drop your motor down on top of your mounts, you'll push the alignment tool in to meet the PTO. Seeing where that shaft meets your PTO, will tell you where to shim the motor. You will be looking for the shaft to meet and recess into the PTO without any deflection. Don't worry if it's not perfect. The Rotax shaft was designed with a rounded edge at the end. That was to take up for slight differences in the alignment. But, do your best to get it as close as possible. If it's off too bad, you'll know from the excessive vibration. Cheers!
 
Actually I am concerned there is not enough clearance between the pump and engine. Mine actually had one of the rubber bumpers on the shaft end missing and it was still rather tight (when I initially decided to do a pump rebuild). I installed new bumpers on both ends of the shaft, and in my opinion, was excessively tight to the point where it distorted the pump housing to put it together (when the hardware was tightened up). I did verify there were not any old (extra) bumpers held up in the PTO Flywheel or the pump.

My '97 also has the washers on the top pump studs (between the pump and hull), which I thought were OEM (as they show up in the manual).

With the engine out, will now be doing to do a complete alignment job. My shims (and there are several) are placed between the rubber mount base and the hull (not between the rubber mount and the engine (which is how the shop manual shows it)). Is my configuration typical? My mounts look differnent anyway from the manual so maybe they changed things up a bit. The shims do appear to have an OEM look to them.


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I hope you have better luck on yours than I did mine this past fall. For some reason, when I bought my boat, I found the pump had washers between the pump and hull, only on the top two studs. I found out why when I went to put my new motor in. With the 787 sitting on the bottom of it's engine mounts, with no shims, it already sat higher than the pump shaft. There was no way to "unshim" the mounts, so the only way to bring the shaft up to meet the PTO, was by using washers on the upper studs of the pump. This was the only way I could get alignment. In hindsight, I have to believe there may have been some damage to the fiberglass at the rear mounts, causing this. Normally, when you put the motor in, the drive shaft to pump will be lower at the PTO, so you have to shim the motor to lift up and meet the shaft. To be vice versa was a pain to work with.

When you set up your alignment tool, you'll bolt the plate to the hull, flat out. Then, when you drop your motor down on top of your mounts, you'll push the alignment tool in to meet the PTO. Seeing where that shaft meets your PTO, will tell you where to shim the motor. You will be looking for the shaft to meet and recess into the PTO without any deflection. Don't worry if it's not perfect. The Rotax shaft was designed with a rounded edge at the end. That was to take up for slight differences in the alignment. But, do your best to get it as close as possible. If it's off too bad, you'll know from the excessive vibration. Cheers!
 
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According the the parts diagram the shims go between the hull and the motor mount.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_JB.asp?Type=13&A=17&B=6

Take a look at this parts diagram, it shows a shim, part no. 35 between the pump and the ride plate, which would space the pump a little further from the motor.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_JB.asp?Type=13&A=17&B=14

I've honestly not seen this before usually the washers go on the outside of the pump toward the rear. Check your service manual and see what it shows.

Lou
 
Yep, my stuff matches the parts diagrams. Hopefully it will go back together smooth enough.

Thanks for all the replies here.
 
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