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Driveline rattle after alignment
- Thread starter Mekanix
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AKnarrowback
Well-Known Member
Bumpers in on the driveline?
Yup new ones.
Good point... I didn't think of that .
My mind was set on maybe originally it wasn't lined up properly and wore the driveshaft and impeller in a certain way that is only showing up now since it acts like there is lots of slop in the Driveline but I didn't think of front-to-back movement although now that you mention it, the noise did reduce a bit when I push to the carbon seal back while it was running. So I'll pull the c clip and see if I can move the driveshaft for and aft.
AKnarrowback
Well-Known Member
I was thinking the same thing, it's aligned but needs to move back a hair.
Jimmy
I have a 96 800, that I race in 800 cc LTD class. For me there is a 2 part motor alignment, that is not in the manual.
I get my motor alignment be "close" to perfect, (which is rare, and why the shaft ends are curved, to allow for imperfections), and then there is fore and aft pump/prop/drive shaft (damper)play. Your pto boot and Carrier bearing/carbon seal is already off. I leave the rubber boot on the prop end on, since there is no play there,even though there a rubber damper there, the boot there is strong enough to prevent the compressing of the damper
I bolt on the pump with the drive shaft (and damper on), and the pto boot off. The motor has been aligned already. I then then loosen the 3 bracket bolts (13mm, slightly larger one at the front), and gently, slide the motor back till it just stops at the drive shaft damper, ( a second hand here helps to hold the shaft steady and not allow it move backwards).
Often I pull the drive shaft out on a motor and the damper is compressed, or in some cases squashed, or seemingly missing, and need a pick to get it out of the pto. The earlier skis have a soft spring in the cone, that forces the prop shaft forward against the thrust washer and the bearing. So there is some play at the thrust washer. When you hit the throttle, the pump draws the prop forward along with the drive shaft and that damper. The later models have a stronger spring, with little to no play. However it has been my experience that the spring is too strong and causes unnecessary binding. After I repair a prop, I like to be able to rotate the prop without cutting my finger. So, the bottom line to me, is that clacking on the trailer, is fine., it means the prop was installed without pinching/locking the thrust washer in the pump.
I get my motor alignment be "close" to perfect, (which is rare, and why the shaft ends are curved, to allow for imperfections), and then there is fore and aft pump/prop/drive shaft (damper)play. Your pto boot and Carrier bearing/carbon seal is already off. I leave the rubber boot on the prop end on, since there is no play there,even though there a rubber damper there, the boot there is strong enough to prevent the compressing of the damper
I bolt on the pump with the drive shaft (and damper on), and the pto boot off. The motor has been aligned already. I then then loosen the 3 bracket bolts (13mm, slightly larger one at the front), and gently, slide the motor back till it just stops at the drive shaft damper, ( a second hand here helps to hold the shaft steady and not allow it move backwards).
Often I pull the drive shaft out on a motor and the damper is compressed, or in some cases squashed, or seemingly missing, and need a pick to get it out of the pto. The earlier skis have a soft spring in the cone, that forces the prop shaft forward against the thrust washer and the bearing. So there is some play at the thrust washer. When you hit the throttle, the pump draws the prop forward along with the drive shaft and that damper. The later models have a stronger spring, with little to no play. However it has been my experience that the spring is too strong and causes unnecessary binding. After I repair a prop, I like to be able to rotate the prop without cutting my finger. So, the bottom line to me, is that clacking on the trailer, is fine., it means the prop was installed without pinching/locking the thrust washer in the pump.
Idle on the the trailer is 1500, and in the water 2500. To clear this up, pull the pump, and have a good look at the prop splines, and then check the splines in the pto, if they are out of alignment, they will both have rounded splines, Also, the drive drive shaft can also be the culprit, roll it on a flat piece of glass and look for a Wobble, (normally a bent shaft will cause a vibration).
LikeabossTM
Active Member
Did you pump some grease into the PTO? That'll move the driveshaft aft and remove a little more slop.
LikeabossTM
Active Member
That weird (that grease squeezed ahead of the PTO). I don't know your model, but on mine the PTO threading onto the crank would physically prevent any grease migration forward.
The PTO boot gets filled just until it starts to expand, which is right about the same time the driveshaft kicks aft a little from the pressure of the added grease.
I just put an engine in a 2004 GTI (787) Noise at idle and as soon as you give it gas it went away. I was really concerned with the noise after some checking. I'm new to all this. LOL I ended up pumping some grease into the PTO and the noise, most of it anyway WENT AWAY. I was thinking the splines might be worn. It was making a heck of a noise. Perhaps a more high pressure (this is a type of grease) grease would help out in this situation. Glad you posted this. I'm on it !!
So here is what I'm thinking. Back in 2003 Chevy trucks had a steering wheel knocking issue (when it was moved back and forth slightly). The initial fix was to pump a heavy grease into the area. It worked but came back after about 6 months. I'm gonna find out from my cousin what type of grease that was.
So here is what I'm thinking. Back in 2003 Chevy trucks had a steering wheel knocking issue (when it was moved back and forth slightly). The initial fix was to pump a heavy grease into the area. It worked but came back after about 6 months. I'm gonna find out from my cousin what type of grease that was.
Yup same thing happened when I did it. I don't think it is a fore and aft rattle. I think it is looseness in the splines.
Also a good alignment can result in a rattle because you have taken away the shaft stress of a misalignment condition (shaft could be in a slight bind). Now the shaft can move more freely and any slack/clearance on the splines can result in a rattle.
I'm just breaking in a 2000 RX I went through the engine and pretty much everything else. I can't wait to ride it like I stole it.
The 951 sure has some GRUNT. Bet mine is uglier than yours. 
Dude you are way faster than me. LOL I rebuild all the way myself. It is the only way to insure you got something reliable. Oh my goodness the crap I find wrong with these skis. I'll bet you see the same stuff. I am of the opinion that there are no good skis out there. They all need something. Ha ha. I know who to go to when I have issues now.
I have 2 DI RX's a DI XP and a 98 XPL. I'm also working on a 2003 GTX DI I am putting a rebuilt engine in.... I love the GRUNT of the 951.
I win the UGLY contest !! That gray body work is hideous and you can't polish it. This is not the seat that goes with the ski... I Just had a spare. The foam is in bad condition and due to the cost of getting it fixed I'm gonna have to become a freakin upholsterer. The thought IRKs me but most of the skis I get need seat covers... some easy some difficult.
I see exactly what you mean. Redid the alignment and there was lots of for and aft movement. After fixing that problem solved!
Now on to rx #2 to do the same thing.
Also key notes here are to get it shimed and aligned and tightened down. Then install bare driveshaft and pump without grease or impeller nose cone. Then loosen lower bolts on front motor mount and upper bolts on rears ans push motor back to remove slack in driveshaft.
Then tighten down front lower bolts and remove pump and shaft.
Then check alignment again keeping in mind to keep engine pushed back.
Once aligned tighten rear bolts and reassemble.
On my other rx I had to remove 3 shims in the rear and one in the front.
On this one just one shim in front and it was good .
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