Crankcase filled with water - lube options?

[anchormanagement]

Hello, I purchased a 97 XP this week. The guy thought he seized the engine 5 weeks ago. In reality, it doesn't appear the driveshaft carrier bearing has ever been lubed and it seized grabbing hold of the shaft making him think the engine seized. I took the jugs off to do the top end when I realized I needed to look deeper as the cylinders were in great shape.

The big issue is when I took the jugs off, I found the crankcase full of water. I'm assuming he probably hooked up a hose and turned it on without ever getting the engine turned over. So, I'm currently waiting for my rebuild kit to get here in the mail and have a dilemma on what to do with the bottom end. I've heard the guys that automatically say it needs to be rebuilt because it has been flooded more than 24 hours. I've also read guys say that's a load of crap. I'm gonna go with the second camp just because I'm REALLY not wanting to pull the crank.....

ANYWAYS.....what I'm wanting to know is what people think I should do regarding the water in the crankcase. I left it in there tonight because 1) what is another 24 hours after 5 weeks and 2) it is my opinion things will rust up much faster if I suck it all out of there and then leave it sit to airdry until I get my parts to get it rebuilt so I can run it to evap all the water. Now that I've removed the bearing the crank moves just fine. What I'm really wanting to do is drain it and fill it with some type of lube and let it sit for a couple days....but I'm unsure what lube I should use. I am kinda leaning towards Marvels Mystery but thought I'd just throw this out there to get others opinions/ideas before I actually do something tomorrow afternoon.

I appreciate any ideas and opinions. If you are just gonna say rebuild it do me the favor and just refrain from a reply.

Thanks!

 

[Coastiejoe]

If you are content in trying to save it, I would fill the crank with diesel and tranny fluid. Both of those are good for stuck metal parts.

 

[mikidymac]

In 5 weeks under water the crank bearing will have rust on them.

Oops, I was supposed to refrain from saying anything.

 

[anchormanagement]

In 5 weeks under water the crank bearing will have rust on them.

Wow, did you learn that in ASE school? I never even thought about rust......

 

[jcleary93]

I was once in the same position and tried saving a crank. I used marvel mystery oil. Everything seemed fine I put a new top end in and it ran great. 3 hours later my crank failed and I had wish I'd just spent the $300 for a new one

 

[1of500]

Go ahead and blow a hole in the cases when that rusty crank bearing lets go. Don't be a dick when you don't get the opinion you seek

 

[manolocross]

Just put a new top end and go run the crap out of it. If it blows up too bad.... If it doesn't... Enjoy!

 

[1of500]

Just put a new top end and go run the crap out of it. When it blows up too bad....... Enjoy!

Fixed it for ya

 

[mikidymac]

In all honesty we do wish you the best of luck and I hope you do prove us wrong and enjoy your ski.

The issue is that rust develops very quickly on the bearings even at a microscopic level. The rust is abrasive and the bearing surfaces are no longer smooth and polished so as they run they grind themselves down to the point tat they let go. Just like if you were to add some aluminum oxide powder or any other abrasive into the engine it would destroy the bearings. No amount of lube or soaking the crank will fix this.

The reason we are telling you this is so you don't spend the money on a top end just to have all your hard work go down the drain. Like others have said we have seen this happen a lot.

In the end best of luck and I hope whatever way you decide to go it works out for you.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Vacuum out the remaining water and fill the case with diesel fuel, the DF will absorb water.