Cracked engine block or head

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Notin

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Hello I have a 2012 RXP 260 and I just found out that the engine block is cracked building pressure in the cooling loop causing the cooling to overflow. I’m wondering if anybody recommends a location for replacement engine blocks. It only has 40 hours on the machine so very disappointing reliability
 
my local machine shop repaired mine for 1/2 of anything found on ebay or craigslist etc. , and your assured of the 40 hours of use.
 
I just found a hairline crack in the top rear of what appears to be the block. Engine shut down last weekend and when I investigated the coolant was in the hull. After refilling the coolant and investigating some more, I'm seeing a hairline crack opening up at full throttle and spitting some coolant. I'm guessing it could also be building up pressure in the line and causing the overflow to bubble over. Any idea if this is something a machine shop might be able to repair or do I risk a stop leak or something?
 
Stop leak won’t be effective with the pressures and stress put on the block during operation, if you really have a crack. A machine shop may be able to do a block repair, by welding or stitching the area. But your best solution and maybe the cheapest long term is a reman engine replacement.
 
A replacement OEM engine is quite expensive. If I replace the whole block/engine Who can recommend readable RE manufactured engine or block sellers?
 
Personal preference... but I think many in this forum of experienced owners would probably recommend SBT in the Tampa, Florida area. They sell and ship completely remanufactured engines with warranty coverage, and are a reliable and reputable resource. I fortunately haven’t had to use them, but would if the need ever arises.
 
So upon further investigation, my crack leaking coolant isn't in the block, it appears to be at the arm that allows the super charger to be bolted to the engine. That nasty bolt that is inserted away from the engine, into the arm that comes off the stator cover and into the supercharger. Since that arm comes off the stator cover, I'm thinking I can replace the cover and should be good. I found a replacement on ebay. Anyone ever try removing that stator cover without removing the engine from the hull of a Challenger 180 SE to maybe check the stator or something? I think its worth giving it a shot but its going to be a bear to pull all of those bolts with so little room to work in. Would save me several thousand to do it though.
 
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