I have a 1995 seadoo gtx and it already has the oil tank removed. I know I have to loop the oil lines together for the rotary valve, but I'm not quite sure which lines are for the rotary valve. Do I need to connect the two bigger lines that came off of the oil tank? How much oil do I need in the lines?
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Converting to Premix
- Thread starter Man
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First of all I would never recommend removing the oil injection system and converting to premix.
But if you do I wouldn't remove the oil tank, if you remove the tank put some kind of tank in the ski, like a small fuel tank from a lawn mower. You will need to feed oil to the fitting on the exhaust side of the motor and also connect the return line from under the rotary valve, the two lines labeled 17 on the parts diagram.
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...doopwc&a=311&b=15&c=0&d=-OIL-INJECTION-SYSTEM
You will also need to disable or remove the oil pump which will require removing the carbs. and the intake manifold and removing the nylon gear on the rear of the oil pump, you can leave the oil pump in place without the gear or use a block off plate. You will also need to cap off the two nipples under each carburetor.
Lou
But if you do I wouldn't remove the oil tank, if you remove the tank put some kind of tank in the ski, like a small fuel tank from a lawn mower. You will need to feed oil to the fitting on the exhaust side of the motor and also connect the return line from under the rotary valve, the two lines labeled 17 on the parts diagram.
http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...doopwc&a=311&b=15&c=0&d=-OIL-INJECTION-SYSTEM
You will also need to disable or remove the oil pump which will require removing the carbs. and the intake manifold and removing the nylon gear on the rear of the oil pump, you can leave the oil pump in place without the gear or use a block off plate. You will also need to cap off the two nipples under each carburetor.
Lou
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
The problem is if you loop them, it will run fine until the oil seeps through the crank seals. Then it burns the oil without you knowing it, and then the RV shaft goes dry. Then you will know it when the bearings melt.... It may never happen if your seals never seep, but why risk it?
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
FWIW, I looped mine, connected the two with a T-Flush connector for 99cents at the auto parts store, kept it like that for almost 3 years.... topped it off every once in a while, unless you have leaky crank seals it won't be an issue, but you MUST keep an eye on it.... I lost about 1oz every 5 hours of riding, or 2 weeks, whichever came first, my buddy, same thing.. but he had a bit of a leaky seal, so he bought a 4oz break line reservoir and just zip tied it up along the side. again, rode it like that for 3 years. It has been done before and it works just fine, you don't need a huge backup container as long as you keep an eye on stuff.
t-fitting looks similar to this.. I have a couple sitting in my junk drawer at work..advanced auto carries them behind the counter.
brake line gizmo, for a little extra security
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Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
myself, no oil filter, never saw the point of that in a loop situation.
never changed the oil once in 3 years
and i'm guessing that I add like maybe half a quart in the period of time. (not sure if not changing the oil was the right thing to do, but nobody ever told me otherwise, and I didn't ask)
never changed the oil once in 3 years
and i'm guessing that I add like maybe half a quart in the period of time. (not sure if not changing the oil was the right thing to do, but nobody ever told me otherwise, and I didn't ask)
Luv2Camp
Active Member
I still do not understand why anyone would go to premix on these Seadoos. With the oil system essentially bullet proof at least for the Seadoo brand, I see only increased oil use, oil soaking all of the carb internals which can swell the diaphragms, risk of burning up the lower end if the loop runs dry, my feeling is it is more risky and costly switching than leaving it alone.
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