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Cleaning Aluminum mating surfaces (head, crank case, cylinders) 951 DI

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tkarvelis

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I have some new used parts from [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION], and I am waiting on the rebuilt Seadoo crank for my 951 DI. I started looking for ways to clean the mating surfaces. I thought about an abrasive pad on a die grinder, but Nick said no to that, and watching some you tube videos made me laugh. I know razor blades are a bad idea.

I stopped at my local Advanced Auto, and while she was nice to look at, the sales lady was not much help in solvent based cleaners. :D

The did have one can for $11 or $12, but it is not silicon based sealant friendly, and I am assuming the case was sealed by 3 Bond or other type of sealant.

Should I be using lacquer thinner, acetone, or what?

I know chasing the threads is on the list too.

I would like to wash all the parts before assembly to remove any old oil, metal shavings from a torn crank / counter balance gear etc. I was thinking a large rubber maid tub with some Super Clean or Purple Power and hot water. Once they are clean, bake the parts on low heat to remove the residual water.
 
I use a razor blade, carefully and typically on edge, never digging in. And I also will back Nick on the abrasive pad. Those are perfectly machined surfaces. In my eyes those are for guys in a hurry. Loctite makes a thing called Chisel stripper, it's an aerosol. Anything to loosen the gasket and then scrape. I think I have an image in my 95 resto thread in my sig line
 
I often use a razor blade for stuff like that being very, very careful not to nick the surface. Or a gasket remover solvent is great if it works but that doesn't always happen as planned.

On exhaust and intake manifolds I often use the scotchbrite but always remember that stuff leaves abrasive everywhere you need to clean it all up else may have left sand in there. A lot of people don't use scotchbrite for this reason.
 
I start by washing all parts in safety solvent, cough cough gasoline. Don't tell anybody...
Then clean all surfaces with razor blades very carefully and chase threads.
Then another wash in safety solvent and blow dry with compressed air.
Finally I wipe all sealing surfaces with break cleaner on a microfiber rag then once more with compressed air.
Squeaky clean and ready for assembly.
 
With a dirty engine I have found that cleaning/prep easily took as long if not longer than assembly. The extra time is worth it.
 
I start by washing all parts in safety solvent, cough cough gasoline. Don't tell anybody...
Then clean all surfaces with razor blades very carefully and chase threads.
Then another wash in safety solvent and blow dry with compressed air.
Finally I wipe all sealing surfaces with break cleaner on a microfiber rag then once more with compressed air.
Squeaky clean and ready for assembly.

I use diesel fuel in my parts washer.
 
I don't have a parts washer and diesel or kerosene leaves an oily residue. I use gas in a large pan out in the open. NO SMOKING! No it isn't safe but it works for me.
 
Maybe I will look for a "cheep" parts washer. Between that, the razor blades, and other solvents, I should get it clean.
 
Don't have any experience with the seadoo gasket sealer but in the past I've used Methyl Ethyl Keytone with great results.
 
Can't go wrong with harbor freight.

Also I love these dispensers.

View attachment 34681

I totally need to buy a couple of those,I do have a ridiculous number of boxcutters and utility knives for kitchen/garage/den, use them all the time, but I can't keep track of my single edge blades. I always put them somewhere so I don't lose them and then I forget where.
 
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