Choke linkage stuck

[Erik Hagen]

Guys- I have a 2001 GTX, and, recently replaced the fuel lines and rebuilt the carbs. Today after re-installing the carbs (again) I noticed that the choke linkage was stuck half way open. Upon further inspection, I noticed that it was only the linkage on the PTO carb. It simply won't move.

Never had an issue with it until now. Any ideas? Worked perfectly before I reassembled every thing.

 

[96spxpos]

Not too familiar with your ski, but I think the carbs are similar. Did you make sure the choke lever in the carb barrel was turned the right way before you put the spring on and assembled? For example, if you already had it flipped closed all the way clockwise, when you go to pull the choke, it'll appear stuck bc it can't turn anymore

 

[Erik Hagen]

All I did was loosen the Allen screw and slide the rod out on both carbs. Not sure if it could be backwards or not. Will have to check.

 

[Erik Hagen]

I think it might be associated with the accelerator pump linkage. I messed with that today. Will pull them again and check.

 

[96spxpos]

Ahh, yea there had to be more to it. Were you making adjustments?

 

[Erik Hagen]

Well, kind of. I was having some issues with it revving up after I put the carbs in the last time. So, I broke them down and realized I had reassembled the accelerator pump linkage incorrectly. So, yeah, you could say that. Seems like I always do something incorrectly. But, the good news is that I learn from every mistake. If you has asked me one month ago if I could remove the carbs from a Seadoo, I would have said no way. Now, I've done more than I ever thought. Yeah, I've had some heartache over it, but, learned a lot and saved a lot of cash in the process. Many thanks to those here on the forum.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I see from the photo, the cable rod isn't threaded through the hole in the pivot so in this case the choke butterfly linkage will bind like that. I guess you already discovered this.

Also pay particular attention to install the carb base gaskets correctly, it's easy to install them off center and cause an air leak. You don't want an air leak at the base of the carb. This is a common mistake.

 

[soccerdad]

Is it the carb stuck or the cable? The cable will get stuck in a pulled positon if you turn it 90 degrees when pulled out. I did this once and thought I had killed a cable, but it was just turned.

 

[Erik Hagen]

The actual butterfly and the linkage won't move. The butterfly won't open. It seems like it is hung up on something, but, I don't know what.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I'm looking at your photo from above and can plainly see the cable is incorrectly attached, maybe you did that on purpose but the way it is in the photo isn't going to work. There are two problems I see from the photo:

1) The cable isn't routed through the PTO choke pivot?
2) There are no jamb nuts on the cable sheath? There should be quantity 2 x 10mm jamb nuts for adjustment and attaching the cable sheath to the bracket.

I have to believe you realize the cable as shown in the photo isn't set up correctly?

 

[Erik Hagen]

Yes. I know that. I took it out to try and wiggle the choke linkage. If it is attached, the choke cable won't close all the way.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Okay. That looks like an SBN46i on a 951 motor and the choke bell crank lever does appear to be in the choke closed position. Can you see the bell crank has the stopper tang on it there (bent down by factory) to limit open travel? I drew a red circle around it.

It's been a few months since I've looked at mine and photos are rather one dimensional but it looks like something may have fallen down there in the area of the red circle to restrict the movement?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

It seems the choke butterfly shaft in this drawing has a threaded flat on the end that is perpendicular to the choke plate but some other photos I can find seem to indicate the threaded flat on the shaft end is in the same plane as the choke plate.

Item 19 - shaft
Item 45 - choke bell crank lever
Item 3 - choke plate

 

[Erik Hagen]

There are no obstructions. The only thing I can think of is that while I was fiddling with the accelerator pump, I inadvertently closed it somehow. Is there any possible way that the accelerator pump mechanism is somehow attached to the linkage on the choke butterfly rod? When I feel around at the bottom by the pump I don't feel anything, but, not sure how else it could have gotten locked shut.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yeah, I can't think of how the accelerator pump linkage might have any effect b/c all the choke linkage is on top. You have to be really careful with this kind of problem b/c if something fell down in there like a spring, screw, bolt, washer or something you don't want that going through your motor.

Here's a photo of the bottom, ignore the red line:

 

[Erik Hagen]

So, I found the issue. There are 4 small screws (2 per carb) that hold them to the plate that holds the carb together. I was missing one and they were out of alignment, which caused the choke butterfly to become stuck. I have never noticed this missing before, but, I'm guessing this has been the source of many of my issues. Will get a replacement and re-assemble the carbs tonight. Lake test tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I wonder how that screw fell out and where it went? Those should never need to be removed. I would at least use LOCKTITE RED and/or stake the threads by crushing the exposed end of the threads with a pair of wire cutters.

Many times the screw head will twist off when trying to remove them, they were not meant to be removed.

 

[Erik Hagen]

No telling. The more I mess around with this ski, the more gremlins I find. One less thing to worry about now. Loctite it is. I removed another one to take it to match it. It honestly wasn't too hard to get out.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

It honestly wasn't too hard to get out.

Good to know, thanks. I'll check mine next chance I get b/c I don't ever intend on removing them they should not be removable without a propane torch to heat and loosen the loctite, IMO.