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Cave-man engine alignment

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bwaii

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I'm an American living overseas and think I had a '93 SPI. It is as I mentioned somewhere else, it is in "exploded view". There were no shims under the engine and I assume someone said "the caster is fine, we don't need these" and threw them out. There is no way I can get a tool here either bought borrowed or rented, so, my question to the illustrious brains is this. How can I rig up an emergency alignment device to get things "more or less" in the vicinity of the right place. I'll have to make my own shims at least temporarily. (Ham and Japheth will have to wait).
 
If you've done enough engines... you can feel the alignment... but there isn't a way for me to tell you how to do it. (sorry)
 
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the op baffles me,
i don't understand exploded view, I don't know what a caster is, i have no friggen clue who jappith and hambone are.

<< i'm looking over my shoulder for candid camera as I speak.

but honestly...

its a 93,shove it in there, make your best guess and hope for the best, if it doesn't work, its probably for the best.
 
I think the "Caster" comment was just a "Self talking" thing... and referring to a bad/inexperienced mechanic thinking that they were not needed.


In regards to that... I've see some engines go in without shims. BUT... there will normally be a shim or two in the pump.
 
anthonygrato said:
Why can't you order the tool on the Internet?
Click to expand...

I had a similar issue with an older ski. I bought it with the engine removed. I was not going to spend the money for an alignment tool. Here is what I did: I removed the 2 rubber dampers located on each end of the drive shaft. I then installed the engine with the drive shaft in place. Then I shimmed the engine until I was able to easily slide the drive shaft fore and aft without feeling any side tension. Once I felt the alignment was good. I then moved the engine (noting the shims I had in place) then reinstalled the rubber dampers on the drive shaft and reassembled. I ran this ski for 2 summers without any problems then sold it.
 
Answers to above: 1)I could order it on the 'net as I do parts, but as I understand it, it's rather large and bulky so overseas postage would be a problem. 2)I've never done a jetski engine (though I have done a jet engine) so the acquired feel isn't available. I hoped I could get THAT on the internet. It fits in a much smaller box ;). 3)a) exploded view in a shop manual is where all parts are dawn disassembled as if the engine had exploded. That's the current status of my jet. b)caster (and related camber) are wheel alignment angles that are sometimes adjusted using shims (pre-macpherson strut days). c)Ham and Japheth are Shem's brothers and Noah's 3 sons.

OOOOh! I read the part about staying on topic and just realized it applies to efforts at humor (or should I say "F"orts).

I'll go straight. As I understand it from other posts, its a pump housing that has a long sliding shaft and you adjust the engine till it slides in straight. The pump shaft can't be used as the end is round (I suppose to be a mini-CV joint for minor differences).

So any suggestions?
 
bwaii said:
...... 2)I've never done a jetski engine (though I have done a jet engine)....

I'll go straight. As I understand it from other posts, its a pump housing that has a long sliding shaft and you adjust the engine till it slides in straight. The pump shaft can't be used as the end is round (I suppose to be a mini-CV joint for minor differences).

So any suggestions?
Click to expand...

For #2... doesn't mater. Big and expensive engines are a different breed. Not to mention... if you've played with a turboprop... the secondary stage will either be a secondary turbine (not needing alignment) or it will be a continued shaft, that will have a gear, and a machined case to do the alignment for you.

Yes... you really can't use the pump and shaft as a tool because they do allow for a slight miss-alignment.

Your "understood" method is correct... but you also shim the pump. This is where the second issue is at. So... if you think someone removed the shims... it makes it very hard to align without the tool. You may get it close enough that it doesn't bind when all the bolts are tightened down... but the farther off center you get... the faster the parts will wear. I've seen it a bunch of times, were guys think they have it right, and then all the sudden, they rip the splines out of the PTO, or the bend a driveshaft. (causing major damage)

I'm not trying to be harsh... but the answer has been given. SO... it's your ski, do what you want. BUT... there is a high probability that you will have a problem (Eventually) if you don't use an alignment tool.

I know you are out of the USA... but I'm sure if you look around, someone will have a tool you can use. The price of the tool, or to pay a shop to do the alignment will be less $$$ than the potential repair costs. (Damaged PTO, Bent shaft, damaged impeller, damaged pump housing, busted hull from the driveshaft bending while it's spinning, or a busted crankshaft) This falls under the category of do it right the first time, or spend the $$$ to do it the second time.
 
On this old machine...I'd say just go for it. its less of an issue with the short shafts and low HP. spin the PTO by hand and get the feel....then put it in and feel it again...no grease. You should be able to feel it if its binding.


I totally agree with Tony...but in this instance if you cant find one the shipping is gonna be SOOOOO high on that tool due to length you might as well have one of us send a pump you can modify to send a homemade shaft thru it...similar to the OEM tool.
 
Why is the center alignment bar as long as it is? are there actually machines that need it that long? I realize you need some length to control it, but I was surprised how long that is. Its almost needs a safety flag on the handle when its hanging out the back of a ski. ;)

Maybe SBT would cut one down for a fee, to get it under the oversized shipping? Just a thought....
 
It only needs to be that long for the Seadoo's with a 2 piece drive shaft. Basically... the parabolic hulls.
 
And those are the hulls were it has to be SPOT on. Its a thought though. It would be a heck of alot cheaper to ship thats for sure.
 
just another thought,
could the long shaft be cut, near the middle,then threaded,to put it bak together, to make it "shippable"?
one you guys with a lathe should be able to make quik work of it
 
Lathe work here is pretty cheap. Wouldn't have to be a thread, just weld it up (straight). How much does the jig weigh?
 
I think my shipped box was labeled 22, or 23 lbs on the tag when it arrived. Not too sure why I remember that........;)
 
its 23-24 lbs for sure, and the length of the box makes it awkward to carry. it did make it in just under the total length limit for usps first class packages.

you might be able to send it international post or whatever instead of fedex or UPS, it would take a couple weeks, but you would get it eventually
 
2012-11-14 10.32.58.jpgHere is my caveman method, purchased a piece of 7/8 precison ground roundstock, machined one end to 0.678. Just as accurate as the SBT, maybe even a bit better. Bolt the housing to the ski and use the rod to align the motor.
 
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