carb rebuild and gray lines replacing 1997 xp

[chris1994eg]

First off i want to say hi to everyone in this forum im a new member and this is my first jet ski 1997 sea doo xp .. Took it out for the first time on sunday was riding good for the first few hours.. On the way back home i was at full throttle and it would bog and the. Come back and bog again.. It continued doing that and felt like it never got to full power.. My friend told me to pull on the chocke and see if it got better.. It just bogged even more .. So i came upon this forum once i got home and read alot of people have problems related to mine with the fuel system and the lines.. So i decided to do this as well as do the baffle fix since my fuel gauge is not working.. My speedo doesnt work as well but i will take care of that at a later time.. I have taken my carbs off already .. Took me 20 mins.. Not bad for a inexperienced jet ski owner.. Went online and ordered 2 wsm 006-346 kits .. Currently waiting on them .. But my question was on the smaller lines on the carbs there seem to be a valve and mines seem to be clogged..how important is that valve and i saw on another thread i read and the guy didnt have it on... Another thing i found on the small line is some kind of jet inside the line itself (the small line that goes on one of the carbs) at first i touched it and it felt like the line had a rock or dirt inside .. I pushed it with a pick and out came out this brass jet looking thing.. Anyone know what that is and if it needs to be in there.. To me it felt like it was restricting the flow .. Here are some pics

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Yes, that brass restrictor is supposed to be in that line. You can shoot some carb cleaner through those lines to make sure that they are all clear, but the small gray lines do not need to be replaced. Make sure you put the restrictor back in the same way it was in there before. Next thing, those carbs look very dirty, they will need to be cleaned up. At harbor freight, they have some little wire brushes you can put on the end of a dremel tool and it cleans the inside surfaces up really good. Im sure [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] has some pictures he can post of a dirty carb that he has cleaned up very well. Also, make sure you replace the needle and seat, but RE-USE the original spring on the needle, do not use the one that comes in the kit. I know most people on here recommend the OEM Mikuni kits, so I hope you have luck with the WSM kit, they aren't as highly recommended

 

[chris1994eg]

Yes, that brass restrictor is supposed to be in that line. You can shoot some carb cleaner through those lines to make sure that they are all clear, but the small gray lines do not need to be replaced. Make sure you put the restrictor back in the same way it was in there before. Next thing, those carbs look very dirty, they will need to be cleaned up. At harbor freight, they have some little wire brushes you can put on the end of a dremel tool and it cleans the inside surfaces up really good. Im sure [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] has some pictures he can post of a dirty carb that he has cleaned up very well. Also, make sure you replace the needle and seat, but RE-USE the original spring on the needle, do not use the one that comes in the kit. I know most people on here recommend the OEM Mikuni kits, so I hope you have luck with the WSM kit, they aren't as highly recommended

Thanx for your responce and yes i will clean the carbs up real well.. As for the needles i didnt get them in the kit.. But i will do a pop off test just to make sure they are good .. And what about that check valve on the smaller lines? I see some people dont use them.. Is it important or not? Because mine seems a little clogged up.. Problem with my sea doo was it had a hard time starting smoked alot once it started and smelled like fue .. Once it was warm it started right up.. I let it sit for a couple of minutes it would have a hard time starting again.. Like it was flooding .. Think rebuilding the carbs and pop off test will fix this issue?

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

When it is hard to start up on a warm restart, 95% of the time that is a worn out needle and seat. You need to replace those. If I was you, I would try and return the wsm kits and get the OeM mikuni kits, they are far superior and you also need the needle and seat, they are more than likely leaking and flooding your engine during sitting. I believe [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] had some killer links for the kits with needle and seats he had found somewhere... Maybe he will post it

 

[Tk_USMC]

So I'm having the same problems. I have a 1995 spx. It bogs down when I'm running it. I'll turn the fuel off, let some of the fuel burn off and as soon as it has room to breath it works perfect for about 15 seconds. I have had it for 2 years, when I bought it the carb was rebuilt. The only thing I can think of is that the float in the carb is stuck constantly allowing gas through. Which makes it bog down and die. I'm not an expert in this but handy with tools and motorcycle carbs. Any suggestions would be helpful.

 

[chris1994eg]

When it is hard to start up on a warm restart, 95% of the time that is a worn out needle and seat. You need to replace those. If I was you, I would try and return the wsm kits and get the OeM mikuni kits, they are far superior and you also need the needle and seat, they are more than likely leaking and flooding your engine during sitting. I believe [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] had some killer links for the kits with needle and seats he had found somewhere... Maybe he will post it

just ordered this kit http://www.jetskiplus.com/seadoo-du...7-720-787-800.html?utm_source=Google_Shopping .. comes with the needles and such.. will return the other ones since they coming from amazon.. as for my lines i will start on them tomorrow and take more pics.. thanx for all your help [MENTION=43106]CReynoldsMIZ[/MENTION]

So I'm having the same problems. I have a 1995 spx. It bogs down when I'm running it. I'll turn the fuel off, let some of the fuel burn off and as soon as it has room to breath it works perfect for about 15 seconds. I have had it for 2 years, when I bought it the carb was rebuilt. The only thing I can think of is that the float in the carb is stuck constantly allowing gas through. Which makes it bog down and die. I'm not an expert in this but handy with tools and motorcycle carbs. Any suggestions would be helpful.

check to see if you still have the gray fuel lines.. and check you fuel/water separator see if there is no dirt or slime in there.. i dont know if these carbs have floats.. they work with pressure from what i seen.. and have to do a pop off test to see if it leaks or not.

 

[Waterluvr]

When it is hard to start up on a warm restart, 95% of the time that is a worn out needle and seat. You need to replace those. If I was you, I would try and return the wsm kits and get the OeM mikuni kits, they are far superior and you also need the needle and seat, they are more than likely leaking and flooding your engine during sitting. I believe [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] had some killer links for the kits with needle and seats he had found somewhere... Maybe he will post it

Look guys I don't usually say much when you bash vendors but this nonsense with SBT and WSM's carb kits is ridiculous both of those companies buy the same "Genuine Mikuni" parts right off the same end of the only assembly line in Japan that makes them and they get packed into private label kits.

If you do a little homework you'll see SBT and WCSST share the same address in FL and they sell *Genuine Mikuni* parts ala carte by name under the WCSST marketing name from bulk parts inventory and SBT packs them into private label packaging as does WSM. There's only one other manufacturer of kit parts in the world and they are sold under the Winderosa name and have been marketed by other companies in the past, those parts are ugly as sin for fit and finish but work just fine, you won't find any of that in a WSM or SBT kit.

When you buy a WSM or SBT kit you are getting the exact same parts packaged under Mikuni OEM branded labeling, I've been in the plant that produces and packages those parts twice in twenty years.

These internet myth's about using only "genuine" parts have gotten out of hand to the point people are being told to send parts back only to buy the same thing all over again in a different wrapper there's a whole bunch of people right here on this forum doing it because they read it somewhere and just repeated it over and over again.

There's no material or quality difference at all in any of the Japanese parts aside from the lot numbers they were produced in and they all wind up being sold under different labels.

 

[mikidymac]

Look guys I don't usually say much when you bash vendors but this nonsense with SBT and WSM's carb kits is ridiculous both of those companies buy the same "Genuine Mikuni" parts right off the same end of the only assembly line in Japan that makes them and they get packed into private label kits.

If you do a little homework you'll see SBT and WCSST share the same address in FL and they sell *Genuine Mikuni* parts ala carte by name under the WCSST marketing name from bulk parts inventory and SBT packs them into private label packaging as does WSM. There's only one other manufacturer of kit parts in the world and they are sold under the Winderosa name and have been marketed by other companies in the past, those parts are ugly as sin for fit and finish but work just fine, you won't find any of that in a WSM or SBT kit.

When you buy a WSM or SBT kit you are getting the exact same parts packaged under Mikuni OEM branded labeling, I've been in the plant that produces and packages those parts twice in twenty years.

These internet myth's about using only "genuine" parts have gotten out of hand to the point people are being told to send parts back only to buy the same thing all over again in a different wrapper there's a whole bunch of people right here on this forum doing it because they read it somewhere and just repeated it over and over again.

There's no material or quality difference at all in any of the Japanese parts aside from the lot numbers they were produced in and they all wind up being sold under different labels.

I can say first hand as in holding them both in my hand they are not the exact same parts.

The SBT kits I received two years ago had the fuel pump clear discs marked with red marker and all mikuni ones are marked with blue.
THe rubber plugs for the discs were clearly molded differently.
THe rubber gasket for the check valve over the jets was cut flat and not molded with the sealing ridge like the Mikuni.
The diaphragms were different.

The needle and seats did not have the mikuni trade mark square either.

Two years ago the SBT ones were not the same as the Mikuni's or from the same assembly line.

Today that could be different but it wasn't then.

 

[chris1994eg]

Look guys I don't usually say much when you bash vendors but this nonsense with SBT and WSM's carb kits is ridiculous both of those companies buy the same "Genuine Mikuni" parts right off the same end of the only assembly line in Japan that makes them and they get packed into private label kits.

If you do a little homework you'll see SBT and WCSST share the same address in FL and they sell *Genuine Mikuni* parts ala carte by name under the WCSST marketing name from bulk parts inventory and SBT packs them into private label packaging as does WSM. There's only one other manufacturer of kit parts in the world and they are sold under the Winderosa name and have been marketed by other companies in the past, those parts are ugly as sin for fit and finish but work just fine, you won't find any of that in a WSM or SBT kit.

When you buy a WSM or SBT kit you are getting the exact same parts packaged under Mikuni OEM branded labeling, I've been in the plant that produces and packages those parts twice in twenty years.

These internet myth's about using only "genuine" parts have gotten out of hand to the point people are being told to send parts back only to buy the same thing all over again in a different wrapper there's a whole bunch of people right here on this forum doing it because they read it somewhere and just repeated it over and over again.

There's no material or quality difference at all in any of the Japanese parts aside from the lot numbers they were produced in and they all wind up being sold under different labels.

well i only got the other kit because it did come with the needle and seat.. but thats a interesting point you got there.

 

[Waterluvr]

I can say first hand as in holding them both in my hand they are not the exact same parts.

The SBT kits I received two years ago had the fuel pump clear discs marked with red marker and all mikuni ones are marked with blue.
THe rubber plugs for the discs were clearly molded differently.
THe rubber gasket for the check valve over the jets was cut flat and not molded with the sealing ridge like the Mikuni.
The diaphragms were different.

The needle and seats did not have the mikuni trade mark square either.

Two years ago the SBT ones were not the same as the Mikuni's or from the same assembly line.

Today that could be different but it wasn't then.

Apparently you didn't get the memo regarding the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster caused by a tsunami that shut down the vast majority of all manufacturing and exports for quite some time in Japan that hit early March of 2011, every distributor in the power sports industry scrambled to source parts from brand X for a year + and you get one of those kits and bash a company every chance you get on the internet using that as excuse?

Someone should take away your internet connection man, it's painful to read the garbage you post.

 

[mikidymac]

Not bashing at all or getting into garbage that certain members post.

I think the SBT engines are fine, and most of their products are good quality. I will say that from my experience in the past and recently as well as other members here this week have posted that their carb kits and engine gasket kits are not OEM quality. If you don't want to believe that then by all means try them and compare for yourself.

As for WSM I have been using their parts since the 90's and have always been happy with them and their quality with a few exceptions. Their rotary valves are not asymmetric so you can't flip them to get a degree or two one way or the other like stock and some of their seals are more of a hard plastic than a soft rubber like the OEM ones.

In the end try them for yourself and see if you think there is a difference and you all know the saying about opinions.

 

[chris1994eg]

well i just got the wsm kit today will compare to the other one i ordered with the needles once it gets here.. but today i got a little more done on the XP .. my gas gauge was not working so i thought i would take the baffle out since im replacing all the lines already and see if i can fix the infamous "F1 fuse" ...cut the location where the fuse was at thanx to my automotive camera we had at the shop.. and proseded to cut away with the dremel tool, and what do you know.. F1 fuse was blown.. i soldered to the best of my abilities and then welded back the plastic i had cut away..(must say i was impressed at my plastic welding skills) then i checked my selector valve to see if it was clogged and to my surprise was clean and seems like someone had already replaced it because it was black instead of the aluminum colored one.. later i wanted to replace the gray lines but i think someone has already replaced these.. if anyone can help me out.. in the pic i have a close up of the hose and the lettering.. if anyone can tell me if those are the stock lines or replaced ones.. beacause all the lines already had aftermarket clamps on them. thanx.. on to the pics now.. i should be abled to get started on the carbs tomorrow.

 

[chris1994eg]

also my fuel lines were 3/8 not 1/4 .. what gives? anyone

 

[racerxxx]

Do not use 3/8 fuel line. You need 5/16" and 1/4"





Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[chris1994eg]

[MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] so i have the original gray lines? and yes i measured twice and the bigger ones are infact 5/16 ..

 

[racerxxx]

Yep, the gray tempo lines must go.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

 

[mikidymac]

I like your four legged assistant.

The fuel selector is probably the original, the 1997+ XP's went to this larger 5/16" fuel valve. You are already so far in I would hate to see you have issues with the valve after you are done so if it were me I would replace it. The best price I have found are the WSM ones and member hfgreg can hook you up here.

Nice progress :thumbsup:

 

[chris1994eg]

Yep, the gray tempo lines must go.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk

Thanx will do sir.. I got some premium fuel lines from my auto parts store will post some pics of it later

I like your four legged assistant.

The fuel selector is probably the original, the 1997+ XP's went to this larger 5/16" fuel valve. You are already so far in I would hate to see you have issues with the valve after you are done so if it were me I would replace it. The best price I have found are the WSM ones and member hfgreg can hook you up here.

Nice progress :thumbsup:

Ty kind sir the lil kitten got curious .. I already got 5/16 fuel lines gope i get a chance after work and do it.. And i should be getting my carbt kit with needles today and hopefully get somewhat started on the carbs

 

[chris1994eg]

so my carb kit didnt arrive today :facepalm:.. i called USPS and they told me i would have it tomorrow for sure... but i still managed to do some stuff.. so i got my gates 5/16" lines and 1/4"

In with the new out with the old! :thumbsup:

 

[chris1994eg]

installed all the lines to the fuel selector and installed the FS back in after it was thoroughly cleaned

 

[chris1994eg]

i then proceeded to install the baffle back on and install the 4 lines that go to it. (i did not bother changing the 1/4" vent gray tube but did make sure to change the 1/4" return line, i added a in line filter for extra filtration of the fuel.. i added it where the straight 5/16" to 1/4" adapter was, got the idea from one of the members in here.. tell me what you guys think of that set up.. you guys think fuel will be restricted or nah? ..well hope i start on my carbs tomorrow and hope to have her running by saturday! its getting nice out here in NY and i want to test her out!.

 

[chris1994eg]

quick question guys.. so i went to see if my fuel gauge works this morning .. put the key on heard the beeps VTS gauge worked.. but the fuel didnt.. is this gauge only work while the jet ski is running or with the key on? i know my gauge works because thats the first thing i checked [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION]

 

[AdamXP800]

Your float is probably dead



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

 

[racerxxx]

Well, if you take the baffle out you can just flip it upside down. But typically, the float goes bad as Adam said. Plenty of OEM ones on eBay for the $16ish range shipped.

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[chris1994eg]

Your float is probably dead
float on the baffle?


96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!

Well, if you take the baffle out you can just flip it upside down. But typically, the float goes bad as Adam said. Plenty of OEM ones on eBay for the $16ish range shipped.

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well how could that be since before i put it back in the tank i made sure i now had Resistance and when i moved the float up and down the resistance on my ohm meter changed from 0.0 all the way to 89.0 as i moved the float... and made sure the float didnt sink in water .. could it be anything else? i checked the suses .. everything else seems good.. but i was looking at the wiring diagram on these models and seems the speedo gauge and fuel level gauge share some wires.. and my speedo gauge doesnt work as well.. could it be some wiring issue [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION]