carb linkage and water box mount? 95 xp, engine rebuild price

[Austrian Rotax]

hi everyone, I cant seem to find where the water box strap mounts to on the 95 xp. looking at the ski from the front, the right side of the strap is securely fastened still but I cant find where the left side of strap attaches to. Also my carb linkage is broken, linking the two bell cranks. With my luck it happens to be a part dis continued, I was hopeing someone could quote me on the price for a good used one please, if I need to build a new linkage I can do that too I guess.

Also heres my list of parts for my engine rebuild, and other items needed. My engine from SES is going to be about $800 shipped both ways because Tom said he will throw in free return shipping, then including shipping from SBT for an alighment tool, SBT blue fuel line(any input on this junky looking fuel line?) they cliam its oil and fuel resistant, motor mount shims, new OEM carb rebuild kits, new fuel selector valve, Here in Canada with all things considered to do this build right, im at about $1300-1350. Just thought I would provide a realistic interpretation of what a first time engine build will cost if your in Canada. in the US it would be about $180 cheaper. If you see any flaws in my materials list plz let me know. Im assuming my stator and MPEM are good lol. I looked at the staor and it looked new. I did verify my pump is great, I cant even fit a 0.2mm feeler gauge blade in between the impeller and wear ring, turns smooth, the impeller is hitting the wear ring in one location.

Another stupid question but any idea how to remove the drive shaft from impeller splines? ive let it soak in pen oil for a few hours and still no luck, I pulled as hard as I could many times and the shaft wont come out of the impeller there is a little wiggle room though yet no luck.

Thanks

 

[Mekanix]

http://www.winnerscirclecanada.com/

Download the catalog for marine and behold what is available to you really close by.
Just in Markham and they have the linkage you need available. page 147 $20!

We get screwed over just getting things across the border but that place has parts at comparable prices to the guys in the states.

The strap probably clips under the waterbox. and if not, try to look for a clip or two holes where the clip used to be. It looks like the one the strap is connected to on the other side.


Fuel lines: regular automotive black 1/4 inch lines 25 feet long is about 30-35$. No need to get anything special unless your going for a cool look.

To remove the driveshaft from the splines I would start the engine and let the thing rattle for a minute, That should free it up
But in this case I would suggest to just keep working it.

Don't assume your stator is good. clean it, inspect it, measure it and make sure its not shorted to the casing. Just follow the manual. It sucks to have to get back in there if the engine doesn't start.

 

[Austrian Rotax]

thanks stephen, ill check them out when I go to Toronto next month. Also one more thing, do I really need the shim kit from SBT? or could I just use washers or any alternative suggestions? This engine build is adding up fast, now with new fuel selec and bolts, more shipping cost, im at $1500, so anyone in Canada thinking of getting their engine rebuilt, well as you can see to do an engine install into a project ski gets to be almost more then the ski is worth if you do it right it seems.

 

[Mekanix]

Are you sure your going to have to adjust it ? Cheapest thing to do is to get some aluminum sheet in various thicknesses and trace out the bottom of one of the motor mounts and then make the pattern yourself. But the shim's are cheap enough to just buy what you need. And also winnerscircle might have the shim's as well if not the dealer will. Or lots of people on here could send you some.


Fuel select is also available from them for $20 (page 137) same quality you will get with sbt.

Have you tried contacting CVtech ? they're in Quebec and might be able to do' what you want with the engine cheaper.

http://www.cvtech-aab.com/contenu/index_ang.cfm They do OEM rebuilds, aftermarket, WSM anything...

That's where I bought my crank from.

And yes doing it right is worth more than the machine as a whole is worth. But you soon forget about that after 50 hours or so...
I paid 1800 for mine before I did the engine.

650 for crank
290 for WSM top end kit
Various gaskets
all kinds of sealants and locktites
70 per hole Boring
50 for a rotary valve
carb kits
Impeller
wear ring
pump rebuild kit
primer/choke delete

yada yada...

 

[Austrian Rotax]

Thanks very much Stephen I think ill just hope I dont have to adjust it, and if I do ill probly do exactly what you said. My engine is already on its way to SES two days ago sent it. But just a question for future rebuilds, if I just ordered a rebuilt crank and new top end kit would any machining be required (other then cylinder boring and honing)? is it really as easy as droping in a new crank, and useing a new gasket kit? I keep looking through my service Manuel and all it talks about is measuring crank deflection, crank run-out etc and with a rebuilt crank I would hope that is all within spec. Its issues like the rotary shaft I hate I don't have the tools to remove/install it properly with the pressed in bearings and brass gear etc its over-rated complication for little gain, just more service work for dealers lol. If there was instructions or a kit to convert to reeds I would jump on it, sry about my rant lol.

 

[Mekanix]

Well a rebuild isn't that hard if you follow the manual and check everything they say to.
Only boring would be needed. But if your rotary valve cover is worn you can have it machined tighter.

The rotary valve shaft and gear is easy. The rear bearing either stays in or comes out but its not hard to get out either way.
The brass gear is easy to change since once the bearing is off there is only a small C clip holding it together and then the gear can slide out. The other bearing is a bit harder but any machine shop with a press can get it off or just buy a bearing puller.
Go to princess auto and get the bearing puller kit by Propoint. Its tough enough to do most of the bearings you would ever do and you can get longer bolts so that you can get to deep set bearings.

Or you can just buy the whole assembly and swap it out. (parts added up cost's more than the whole assembly) ($113 for the whole assembly on page 133)
The removal tool is $59 on ebay or make your own with a large socket, washer, bolt and nut. Same result...

You will need to adjust the link. When your installing the carbs there is at least 3/8" worth of play in the carb bolts so try and bolt the carbs on as square as possible and then do the adjusting.
I do it by turning the idle all the way off and then installing the link on loose. Then tighten it until the slack is taken up. That way when you move the mag side carb throttle the other side will move. then just turn the idle up 3 turns from slightly touching and that will be your starting point. Make sure that at wide open the two butterfly's are the same.

A rebuilt crank should be all good to go but you can get a dial indicator and check it yourself once you build the engine up to a certain point. Its not complicated, or difficult. Its just something you have to do to see that its not that bad.

Other things to check are the rotary valve clearance, squish band, leak down testing.
You can buy a leak down kit or make it yourself.

The rotary valve is actually better than the reeds from things I've read. I think there was some attempts at using reeds and a custom cover/casing but was too complicated or expensive compared to just maintaining the rotary valve.



On my gsx it was my first seadoo. It had one blown piston and pod filters.
I switched everything back to stock and bought a new crank and WSM 82.5mm top end kit.

Installed it all and then trimmed the raves a bit.(really easy to do but I wet way too far!)
I didn't check deflection, rotary valve clearance, squish, leak down, valve timing .... And the thing just worked!
There were some issues and it was a learning process but I put nearly 100 hours on it before anything major. That's when I snagged a ring and learned about port chamfering

Since then I've learned to chamfer ports so that rings don't get snagged ( just after boring the ports are very sharp!)
And learned how to check the squish band, the rotary valve clearance, deflection, rotary valve timing, leak down for the internal parts of the engine, rotary valve cavity, and water cooling cavity. Also how to check the rave valve shafts and body's to see if they are worn too far or not.

There are lots of little things to check but this is the place to get that kind of info.

 

[Austrian Rotax]

Yea my 96 xp was my first ski and when I changed my pump oil I had mistaken inch pounds for foot pounds and destroyed the cone, I totally forgot it was plastic lol. This forum has prevented me from making many other mistakes for sure. I sort of regret not taking on the rebuild myself since I have lots of time considering it is winter to read my service manuel and study this awesome forum. If you rebuild it yourself you know what is in their and the quality of the parts/work, having an engine rebuilt by SBT or SES etc you never really know what bearings used and what amount of quality went into it, I will see how long this SES engine lasts, going to install an hour meter. According to Tom at SES about RV clearance he said he is putting on a new RV and clearance most of the time is never an issue with a new RV, his words.

I do love these old 2 strokes and the simplicity of the ski, if I had a 4-tec I would take it straight to the dealer for any major issues lol.

Thanks

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Im guessing on that waterbox strap the other tab came off. most of them have a stainless bracket with a rubber pad and on each end there is a place for the strap to connect to.

If I can be of help on parts just let me know. Best way with Canadian orders is to order everything from one spot and get it in one box. Also...if you are close to the border, I send to those trading post boxes all the time for you silly canucks.