Can I change my own oil?
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dieselman
New Member
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Hope this helps it is very easy.
Here are the steps to a good oil change.
Parts and tools needed: OIL/FILTER/Suction pump/rags/funnel/E-10 torx socket.
1. Go to dealer and get a new filter. (he will lighten your wallet for you).
2. Get 4 quarts (or litres) of either Sea-Doo's 4 stroke Conventional oil or any conventional 10W40 from a auto store for 10 billion X less.
3. Warm up the ski, either in the water or on the hose. (not more than 5 minutes on the hose, just enough to warm it up)
3A. note about on the hose:connect the garden hose, start the ski, then turn on the water and warm up the ski. Turn off the hose then the ski. *never run without the hose for more than 30 seconds as the exhaust manifold has no cooling and could be warped)
4. Rev to 4000 rpm and press stop with it at 4000 to get the oil to the pan.
4a. Let ski sit for 5 min to let oil drain back.
5. Remove Dipstick and set it aside. Remove oil fill cap
6. Insert Oil suction pump tube into the oil dipstick tube no more than 18.7 inches (mark it with a perm marker or tape)
7. pump out as much oil as you can (about 3 quarts will come out)
8. REMOVE the suction pump tube.
9. Hold the trottle at WOT and crank the engine for 10 seconds. (this turns off the start function and pumps more oil back to the resevoir for pick up)
10. Reinstall the suction pump hose and suck out more oil.
11. repeat steps 8 to 10, 3 times then remove suction pump.
12. Place wrag around oil filter housing to catch any spill (very little)
13. remove torx bolt from top of oil filter can (plastic on early skis, metal on newer ones)
14. gently pry the cap off the oil filter can, use a non metal tool so you don't scratch the lid or can.
15. lift oil filter out of can, be sure what comes out looks like what your putting back in (incase the bottom of the filter stuck in the can, rare)
16. install the new filter in the can as the old one was.
17. check the O-ring on the cap and if its not damaged from the cap removal, reinstall the cap,be sure not to catch an o-ring. Tighten the bolt to only 80 inch/lbs.
18. if your oil was at the corect level before pumping it out, poor it into a semi tranpartent 4 quart/litre jug and see how much you pumped out. (some pumps show you how much so you can skip this step)
19. put funnel into oil fill and add oil to the amount you pumped out.
20. reinstall dipstick and oil fill cap.
21. start engine and hose and check for leaks. (run for 2 minutes at idle)
22. wait 30 seconds and check your oil level.
23. if too much, remove dipstick and suck out a little and repeat steps 21 and 22.
24. check all hoses, clamps, connectors at this time.
25. Your done!
*** never crank the engine with the siphon pump tube in the dip stick!!**
Ski must be level to change the oil, if on a trailer, put a level on the bump strip on the side of the ski, and tilt the trailer untill its level
Here are the steps to a good oil change.
Parts and tools needed: OIL/FILTER/Suction pump/rags/funnel/E-10 torx socket.
1. Go to dealer and get a new filter. (he will lighten your wallet for you).
2. Get 4 quarts (or litres) of either Sea-Doo's 4 stroke Conventional oil or any conventional 10W40 from a auto store for 10 billion X less.
3. Warm up the ski, either in the water or on the hose. (not more than 5 minutes on the hose, just enough to warm it up)
3A. note about on the hose:connect the garden hose, start the ski, then turn on the water and warm up the ski. Turn off the hose then the ski. *never run without the hose for more than 30 seconds as the exhaust manifold has no cooling and could be warped)
4. Rev to 4000 rpm and press stop with it at 4000 to get the oil to the pan.
4a. Let ski sit for 5 min to let oil drain back.
5. Remove Dipstick and set it aside. Remove oil fill cap
6. Insert Oil suction pump tube into the oil dipstick tube no more than 18.7 inches (mark it with a perm marker or tape)
7. pump out as much oil as you can (about 3 quarts will come out)
8. REMOVE the suction pump tube.
9. Hold the trottle at WOT and crank the engine for 10 seconds. (this turns off the start function and pumps more oil back to the resevoir for pick up)
10. Reinstall the suction pump hose and suck out more oil.
11. repeat steps 8 to 10, 3 times then remove suction pump.
12. Place wrag around oil filter housing to catch any spill (very little)
13. remove torx bolt from top of oil filter can (plastic on early skis, metal on newer ones)
14. gently pry the cap off the oil filter can, use a non metal tool so you don't scratch the lid or can.
15. lift oil filter out of can, be sure what comes out looks like what your putting back in (incase the bottom of the filter stuck in the can, rare)
16. install the new filter in the can as the old one was.
17. check the O-ring on the cap and if its not damaged from the cap removal, reinstall the cap,be sure not to catch an o-ring. Tighten the bolt to only 80 inch/lbs.
18. if your oil was at the corect level before pumping it out, poor it into a semi tranpartent 4 quart/litre jug and see how much you pumped out. (some pumps show you how much so you can skip this step)
19. put funnel into oil fill and add oil to the amount you pumped out.
20. reinstall dipstick and oil fill cap.
21. start engine and hose and check for leaks. (run for 2 minutes at idle)
22. wait 30 seconds and check your oil level.
23. if too much, remove dipstick and suck out a little and repeat steps 21 and 22.
24. check all hoses, clamps, connectors at this time.
25. Your done!
*** never crank the engine with the siphon pump tube in the dip stick!!**
Ski must be level to change the oil, if on a trailer, put a level on the bump strip on the side of the ski, and tilt the trailer untill its level
Welcome to the seadoo forum DStacy. Here is some information on an oil change;
Here is all the info to change the oil in a 4-tec engine. Changing the oil on a 4-tec engine…all models
________________________________________
Here is the info on the oil change. If you still need info let me know. I own a 200 speedster 310 hp.
Here are the part numbers you need to change the oil and filter in ALL 4-tec engines.
(3) "O" rings
1)420320920-$7.25
2)420850500-$8.99
3)420950860-$2.20
Oil filter /I use a K&N off their website.
1)KN556-$12.95
Oil 10w40 Mineral Oil from seadoo#219700346-$6.50 a qt.
Be sure you use 10w40, marine 4 stroke Oil, with a API of SL, SJ or SN.
You need 3 L or 2.7 us quarts with filter for oil change.
Oil extractor from West Marine. Company Tempo, Part# 170200 Model# OB5 Retails about $50.00.
Change the oil when it is warm. Remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick. Insert the extractor tube in the dipstick 18.7 inches from the top of the dipstick pipe. Wrap tape around the tube to be sure it is in that deep. Next, extract the oil from the dipstick. (on pwc models only, the next step applies)When no more oil is extracted, pull the tube out of the dipstick hole and crake the engine(do not start) while the engine is in drown mode(fully depress the throttle lever, or on Jet Boats grab the throttle cable linkage at the throttle body and HOLD it open than crank the engine, get a friend to help)
Crank the engine for 10 seconds, Extract oil again, repeat crank extract 2-3 more times.
Keep track of how much oil you extract and add what you removed.
You will need a E-10 star socket or a 8mm(6pt) socket to remove the oil filter cap. There are 3 "O" rings in the filter cap area if they are damaged change them. Check level, and go have fun. I hope this info helps.
You can also get the o rings, filter, and oil from our "parts" link at the top of the page.
Karl
Here is all the info to change the oil in a 4-tec engine. Changing the oil on a 4-tec engine…all models
________________________________________
Here is the info on the oil change. If you still need info let me know. I own a 200 speedster 310 hp.
Here are the part numbers you need to change the oil and filter in ALL 4-tec engines.
(3) "O" rings
1)420320920-$7.25
2)420850500-$8.99
3)420950860-$2.20
Oil filter /I use a K&N off their website.
1)KN556-$12.95
Oil 10w40 Mineral Oil from seadoo#219700346-$6.50 a qt.
Be sure you use 10w40, marine 4 stroke Oil, with a API of SL, SJ or SN.
You need 3 L or 2.7 us quarts with filter for oil change.
Oil extractor from West Marine. Company Tempo, Part# 170200 Model# OB5 Retails about $50.00.
Change the oil when it is warm. Remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick. Insert the extractor tube in the dipstick 18.7 inches from the top of the dipstick pipe. Wrap tape around the tube to be sure it is in that deep. Next, extract the oil from the dipstick. (on pwc models only, the next step applies)When no more oil is extracted, pull the tube out of the dipstick hole and crake the engine(do not start) while the engine is in drown mode(fully depress the throttle lever, or on Jet Boats grab the throttle cable linkage at the throttle body and HOLD it open than crank the engine, get a friend to help)
Crank the engine for 10 seconds, Extract oil again, repeat crank extract 2-3 more times.
Keep track of how much oil you extract and add what you removed.
You will need a E-10 star socket or a 8mm(6pt) socket to remove the oil filter cap. There are 3 "O" rings in the filter cap area if they are damaged change them. Check level, and go have fun. I hope this info helps.
You can also get the o rings, filter, and oil from our "parts" link at the top of the page.
Karl
I just completed an oil change on my 2005 Seadoo 4tec 215hp jet boat.
I have a question about the fit of the oil filter cap. I had to replace the skinny O-ring ($8.99) that goes just beneath the filter cap because the original broke when I removed the cap. The other O-rings looked fine so I replaced the filter element and then replaced the cap.
I found that there is a small gap all around between the oil filter cap housing and the cylinder that holds the element. I can see the new red o-ring in this gap. I don't remember if there was this gap when I first took the cap off or maybe I haven't fully seated the cap.
I properly torked the screw and I have run the engine with new oil and there is no leak but the engine isn't under load (on the trailer). Is there supposed to be a small gap due to the top o-ring or have I not seated the cap correctly and fully? Could someone post a picture of the correct gap if there is supposed to be one between the oil filter cap/ filter element housing.
Thanks.
I have a question about the fit of the oil filter cap. I had to replace the skinny O-ring ($8.99) that goes just beneath the filter cap because the original broke when I removed the cap. The other O-rings looked fine so I replaced the filter element and then replaced the cap.
I found that there is a small gap all around between the oil filter cap housing and the cylinder that holds the element. I can see the new red o-ring in this gap. I don't remember if there was this gap when I first took the cap off or maybe I haven't fully seated the cap.
I properly torked the screw and I have run the engine with new oil and there is no leak but the engine isn't under load (on the trailer). Is there supposed to be a small gap due to the top o-ring or have I not seated the cap correctly and fully? Could someone post a picture of the correct gap if there is supposed to be one between the oil filter cap/ filter element housing.
Thanks.
Welcome to the seadoo forum BADAZGN. You need to add your model and year to your avatar for future questions.
Yes, it is exactly the same engine. If you have a older then "09" supercharged engine use mineral oil only.
Karl
Yes, it is exactly the same engine. If you have a older then "09" supercharged engine use mineral oil only.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks, It is an 05 370hp Speedster.
What is mineral oil? I have never heard of that for motors. Can this be purchased from anyplace other than the dealer?
Thanks again. I will fix my profile soon.
Matthew
wakefj
Member
KustomKarl: I've been reading your replies to various questions on the forums with great interest. I'm a newbie here with a recently purchased very slightly used 2006 Challenger 180 with the 215HP SC-IC.
I want to treat her right so I ran out and bought all the Sea-Doo goodies to do the first oil change. Following the manual, I just removed 4 quarts of oil from the pan. The dipstick read a little high before I started - but a whole quart? Not knowing the past history here, I guess that I could assume that the previous owner over-filled the engine and just add 3 quarts and check the dip stick; but I thought I'd run this by you (and any others with experience).
Thanks in advance for your help!
-Jim
I want to treat her right so I ran out and bought all the Sea-Doo goodies to do the first oil change. Following the manual, I just removed 4 quarts of oil from the pan. The dipstick read a little high before I started - but a whole quart? Not knowing the past history here, I guess that I could assume that the previous owner over-filled the engine and just add 3 quarts and check the dip stick; but I thought I'd run this by you (and any others with experience).
Thanks in advance for your help!
-Jim
adermott
New Member
I found the same thing. I could see the red o ring under the oil filter cap. But no leak after starting so I guess its supposed to be there.
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