Buzzing sound no start

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Rbiton123

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Hey guys, it’s been a long time coming with this ski.

I rebuilt the whole engine from top to bottom on my 1996 XP limited and put the engine back in as it was, everything was labeled so I know I put all the wires back correctly.

Originally when I would try to start it I would get a clicking sound and after some research I came to the conclusion that it was my starter solenoid because if I put a screw driver between the terminals I got the starter to start turning over the engine.

I got a brand new solenoid and a brand new battery and after installing them both I just get a buzzing sound from the solenoid.

Any idea what this could be? In desperate need of assistance on this, I want to finish this ski before the season is over, HELP!
 

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It’s almost always caused by a low battery, it doesn’t have enough voltage to close the solenoid.

How many volts when resting and when trying to crank does the battery read?

Also what ski do you have? There’s no such thing as a 1996 XP Limited and that’s not the electrical box of a 1996 XP.
 
Sorry, it’s a 1998 XP limited,

I’m not sure of the resting voltage but if I put in the old solenoid I get a click sound but it’ll crank if I cross the terminals with a screw driver. With the new solenoid I only get a buzzing sound
 
Is it an OEM solenoid or an aftermarket?

The 1997+ XP's also have the longest battery cables so all the connections need to be perfect and a good strong battery. I have seen cheap batteries brand new that will not crank a 1997+ XP.
 
Umm it’s a solenoid bought off eBay so most likely aftermarket, I mean if there was a problem with the connections or the battery wouldn’t give me the same noise with the old solenoid? You think it’s just a bad solenoid?

If I install the old solenoid and cross the terminals with a screw driver the engine cranks over... it doesn’t start but that’s a different issue I’ll tackle once I get the electric prob solved
 
You think it would be a better idea to just buy the whole electrical box? With a new solenoid, ignition coils etc.?
 
Gotcha, ok I just placed an order lol stay tuned. Hopefully this all works out, I’ve been dying to get on the water already
 
So almost a month later I’ve finally gotten around to fixing the electrical problem... now my problem is getting it to stay running, if I spray starter fluid into the carbs it’ll start and run for a few seconds then die out, any idea what this could be? Is it the carbs that may be dirty or is it just not getting gas?
 
First never use starting fluid on a 2-stroke. Make a little premix to squirt in the carbs.

But yes, if adding some fuel down the carbs makes it fire then for some reason it isn't getting fuel. Bad strainer, selector or dirty carbs or all of the above is the most common cause.
 
Selector is the fuel selector knob/ valve (on, off, res ). And the strainer atleast on my ski is in front of and above the fuel tank. Are your fuel lines grey?
 
Yes my fuel lines are grey, they read “temp” on them, so basically replace the fuel filter and the gray lines, should I drain the fuel tank as well or is that not necessary?
 
Mikuni is the brand and original manufacturer, SBN is the carb model.

They should be about $45 for one kit. Anything cheaper is not genuine and will cause problems. Don’t buy SBT, Wonderosa, WSM. You can also get all alacarte from OSD seadoo.
 
So I got her started and the gas is flowing... when she starts she revs up really high, I didn’t have it running long enough to see if it cuts off because I’m not in water but would you have any idea what this is? I turned the high speed and low speed needles to specs per the manual and idle needle is at the minimum
 
Two things come to mind.

1) Possibly an air leak. Make sure the carburetor base gaskets are installed correctly.

2) The other possibility is the throttle cable isn't adjusted properly, not allowing both of the carburetor butterflies to return to the idle (nearly fully closed) position.

To adjust the throttle cable, I fully back off the cable outer sheath jamb nuts at the carburetor bracket, tie-wrap the handlebar thumb-throttle full WOT position (keep handlebars positioned near straight), then pull the cable outer sheath at the carburetors taught while holding the carburetor butterfly bell crank fully open WOT position. Continue holding bell crank at WOT and outer cable taught then run the two barrel jamb nuts up against the bracket before releasing the bell crank. Snug the two nuts against the bracket so they won't come loose by themselves (no need to overtighten, this breaks things) then verify smooth and correct operation.

This should give you just a hint of slack in the throttle cable inner wire once the thumb-throttle is fully released to the idle position and the carburetor lever arm should rest up against the idle speed adjust screw.

Hopefully that makes sense.
 
For the most part yes that made sense, I basically need to creat a bit of slack in the cable, another thing comes to mind when you mentioned and air leak, all the seals are right but when I started it, the air filter was off, could this be a possibility? I would connect a water hose to it I’m just not confident enough that it’ll stay running long enough until I figure out the idleing problem, wouldn’t wanna flood the engine, that’s what caused the rebuild in the first place.... and it’s been a LONG time comin
 
Having the air box off will not cause the high idle but it should not be ridden without it as it will run lean.
 
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