Boaty no Worky

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Big Easy

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So two months ago I bought this:

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?60299-New-Boat-Owner

Boat is a 2004 Sportser with the 951 DI.

Finally got to splash it two weeks ago and had an issue. For the first 10-15 minutes in the water, it would not rev past 5000. Limp mode? After that, it cleared up and ran perfect for over an hour. I got 2 second beeps at intermittent intervals during the first 5 minutes, and then they stopped. Low charge? I do not keep a tender on it, but keep the battery off, and the battery is new.

Yesterday it did the same thing for the fist 10-15 minutes, but never cleared up. In fact, it got worse. If I turn off the motor and bob around for a minute, and then turn it on, it will rev to about 6000, and get on plane, but does not feel very strong. Once I throttle back, it will never get back over 5000, and even starts missing and dropping out altogether above 4000. The idle is a little rough, but up to 3000 it is smooth with no issues.

Pulled it out and pulled plugs. Black and fouled, so I replaced them and added some fuel additive the guy at the Seadoo shop was pushing.

Launched it, and it took off to 7000 rpm and felt strong. Unfortunately this lasted only until I throttled back, and we are right back where we started.

It seems to smoke a little more than it should also (I guess, how much should the smoke?).

I was told by the guy I bough it from that he put fresh fuel in it, but I cannot confirm this, and sniffing the filler tube produces a less than fresh fuel smell. I'm on vacation and have only very basic tools. Today I'll try to siphon out the fuel and replace it with premium.

Could old gas cause all of this? I've read a million posts on here about the rectifier, but in all my years of hot rodding, and racing, something in my gut is telling me this a a fuel issue, not spark.

Talked to a Seadoo guru on the phone, and he listed tons of things, mostly related to the sir system. Suggested I use a CANDooPro to run diagnostics. He did offer some basic ideas which I checked.

Power valves are not stuck, and vacuum lines are connected.

ALL lines and hoses appear to be connected except 1. There is a small nozzle on the top of the box over the throttle bodies on the 'passenger' side of the engine. I don't see another vacant nozzle, and have plugged it with my finger while running to no effect.

After being informed that the 951 DI is roughly as complex as a modern F1 motor, I have pretty much given up hope of solving the problems this weekend. But I greatly appreciate any insight you guys might have.
 
I had the exact same boat.....a 2004 Sportster LE DI.....and had a love-hate relationship with it. What you are describing could be a variety of things. If you can get your paws on a manual and determine which code is beeping at you, that will be a start.

Also, here is some light reading of problems another fellow had, and I had the same as him and hijacked his thread. I hope you can find some common ground in there. Covered a lot of the common issues:

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?33940-Voltage-Regulator-Problem

Good luck,
Kevin
 
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Also, other random tidbits that come to mind about the DI machine:

- They really like clean harnesses and harness connections. Corrosion is BAD bad bad on harnesses. Check inside the power distribution box in the rear as well. There is a main power fuse inside that box to check. Mine was green with corrosion. Don't forget the main power on/off cutoff switch as well.
- RAVE valves sometimes stick. I think you covered that already.
- Get a manual and determine what that open line is. The DI system is picky enough that you really need to have that connected.
- Check your battery voltage. Discharged batteries are not good, the DI system likes a full charge.
- NEVER ever ever jump start the thing, you can easily fry the MPEM $$$$$$$$. Bad design.
- The voltage regulators like to take a dump and can cause weird voltage issues that throw you into limp mode. There is an improved one available. Should be a link in the thread that I posted up.
- The CanDooPro is fantastic and can help speed up troubleshooting. Worth every penny.

Hope that helps.
Kevin
 
Last thought. If I recall correctly, that little fitting on top of the airbox above the throttle bodies is a port for fogging. Put the tube for the can of fogging oil down in there and spray away. I think that's the one. I remember wondering about it for a while on mine.

Also re-read you post and it's starting to smell very familiar. If you could tell if it's the 2-second beep every 58 seconds, that would help a lot (code 5). Then you'd know it's voltage-related. Your symptoms running sound like mine had.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Thanks for the replies, reading the other thread now. It is definitely a 2 second beep at what seems like longer than 28 second intervals, but I can't say for sure.
 
I know you are saying it's a fuel issue... but on a direct injection engine.... your fuel is electric. So... a bad regulator will cause all kinds of strange things. Charge your battery, and disconnect the red wire from the regulator. If it gets better... there's your prob. If it doesn't... then you will need to keep digging.


If the plugs have fouled again... then the injectors could be leaking, and need rebuilt.


On the Di engines... you really shouldn't see smoke. So.. make sure the cable is on the pump arm, and is adjusted properly.


Since the new plugs cleared you up for a little... then clip the wires back about 1/4".
 
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I know you are saying it's a fuel issue... but on a direct injection engine.... your fuel is electric. So... a bad regulator will cause all kinds of strange things. Charge your battery, and disconnect the red wire from the regulator. If it gets better... there's your prob. If it doesn't... then you will need to keep digging.


If the plugs have fouled again... then the injectors could be leaking, and need rebuilt.


On the Di engines... you really shouldn't see smoke. So.. make sure the cable is on the pump arm, and is adjusted properly.


Since the new plugs cleared you up for a little... then clip the wires back about 1/4".

:agree:
If you can, check the voltage across the battery terminals at around 5000rpms. Should read approx. 12.6 to 13.5vdc. If not, then your battery is not charging and could be a bad rectifier. As Doc said DI's need a lot of voltage to run the fuel system.
 
Thanks for the tips Doc. I get the beep for about the first 5 minutes of running and then it stops. I'm wondering if the battery is initially low and once charged, the alarm stops.

Leaking injectors? I'll look at pulling them.

Cable on pump arm? What pump?

What wires are you talking about clipping back?

Thanks again. I just siphoned off the old gas (not sure how old), and filled with 89 octane marine fuel. If the bay will lay down a little, I'll splash it and see if that helps.
 
By the way, if by change you need a stator (I hope you don't!), I have a good one available, complete with housing.

That was one of the things I changed, but it turned out the part I replaced was just fine.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
The pump, is the oil pump. There is a cable that goes from the throttle body, down to the pump, and controls the volume. if the cable is off, or the arm is out of phase... then it could be flowing full oil at idle.



The wires are the spark plug wires. Sometimes... they will corrode in the jacket, where the boot is inserted. That problem is 2 fold. 1) You get less spark energy, or lost sparks. 2) It makes EM interference, and causes issues in the CDI and MPEM.

So... take off the boot, and cut the wires back a little... and that will get you into fresh/clean wire.
 
Thanks for the tips.

I will check the plug wires.

Launched the boat and as I expected, the problem remains.

HOWEVER, not one single alarm beep at any time. Progress?

Same symptoms, runs pretty strong at first, 6000 rpm, but as soon as I get out of it and then try to get back in, nothing over 4000.

Turn the engine off, wait a minute or two, turn it on, and strong, then nothing.

I don't think I'm seeing limp mode anymore, and like I said, no more alarm.

How do I pull the red wire off the regulator without also pulling the black.

Also, I found a connection under the tub in the console which did not appear to be connected properly. Two wires, one purple. No way it could be that simple huh?
 
No code (beep) now is strange. Don't know what to say about that.

However, as picky as the DI system is about electrical stuff, I would be all over that connection you found that doesn't look good. It could be that simple. Any chance you can snap a picture of those wires, or tell more about them?
 
Here is the connection. Purple wire w/ tan stripe. Tan wire w/ black stripe.

Followed them back to the console, and they both feed the alarm buzzer.

I can't see how this would affect operation, but....
 

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