Becoming frustrated!

[Trooper182]

Ok i know i need to calm down but every time I take this ski out something new happens lol. Ook about a week ago the ski burned a hole in the exhaust coupler. Installed a new one. Went out again and ran like crap. Ordered genuine carb kits and rebuilt carbs. Took the ski out today and ran better than any other time. Was out about an hour and while doing a full speed run the pitch in the motor changed and started loosing power. Wouldn't go above 3k rpms. Pulled the seat and hull is full of exhaust fumes. So rode back to the trailer with rear seat off and ran great. Got it on the trailer and started looking for the source of the leak. Wouldn't you know it, burned a hole in the coupler again! Pulled it off and the inside looks trashed and can see multiple spots where it was burning through. What am I missing here?? Water valve is brand new and flush. Definitely circulating water. Is there a stronger coupler I need to use?

 

[racerxxx]

So you confirmed the valve is squirting water out the little black tube. Did you verify the elbow fitting is clear and water is going thru it?

 

[Trooper182]

So you confirmed the valve is squirting water out the little black tube. Did you verify the elbow fitting is clear and water is going thru it?

Are you referring to this black tube and fitting? If so i have not pulled them yet. Should I hook it to the hose and run then pull the hose off while it is idling? The last time this happened I pulled the coupler after running it on the hose and the muffler had water poor out of it so I assumed it was working fine.

 

[racerxxx]

Yes you have to confirm your actually getting water into the pipe. That valve injects water on the inside of the pipe. It varies more at idle less at wide open throttle. But even at wot there is enough to cool the exhaust so you don't melt that coupler.

 

[racerxxx]

What oil are you using for your injection oil?

 

[Trooper182]

What oil are you using for your injection oil?

I'm using quicksilver full synthetic API-TC oil. I have some old hose I can use as a temporary fix and run the ski at idle to see if water is coming out. I will report back one I test it.

 

[Trooper182]

If I am getting good flow at idle, how would I test it for wide open?

 

[Trooper182]

Ok so installed a new coupler and ran the engine at idle it is pushing a nice stream of water out of the black hose. Pulled the elbow fitting and it is not clogged.

 

[racerxxx]

Just went back and re-read and looked at your pics. I don't think the water box wcv is supposed to be flush, I think it's supposed to be down. I'll confirm when I get back to my boat. But pics I looked at online show them all down about an 1/8 inch or so. When you replaced yours, did you use the new fitting that came with it or did you use the original one? They're specific oriface size. They're stamped with a number on the side of the fitting. I think......I THINK..... The older ones had a smaller hole, less water at idle more in the pipe, then at a certain pressure in the wcv it dries the inside of the pipe out..... Less water injected inside the pipe from the black tube. But with your valve being flush I think your pressure cut out is lower drying it out sooner. If you look in the service manual I think it tells you where to set that. The engine ones are flush iirc.

 

[Trooper182]

Just went back and re-read and looked at your pics. I don't think the water box wcv is supposed to be flush, I think it's supposed to be down. I'll confirm when I get back to my boat. But pics I looked at online show them all down about an 1/8 inch or so. When you replaced yours, did you use the new fitting that came with it or did you use the original one? They're specific oriface size. They're stamped with a number on the side of the fitting. I think......I THINK..... The older ones had a smaller hole, less water at idle more in the pipe, then at a certain pressure in the wcv it dries the inside of the pipe out..... Less water injected inside the pipe from the black tube. But with your valve being flush I think your pressure cut out is lower drying it out sooner. If you look in the service manual I think it tells you where to set that. The engine ones are flush iirc.

When I bought the ski the previous owner had just installed this water valve. The elbow has a number 48 on it. Looks like it is the original elbow. I took the lid off the water valve to inspect and all looks good inside. Also I think i know how the valve works now. Correct me if I'm wrong but at idle and lower throttle settings the spring inside the cap holds the valve down and open allowing more water into the exhaust. At higher throttle the pressure drives the diaphragm up and cuts the flow of water but shouldn't completely cut it. So if the cap should be screwed down more to apply more pressure on the spring and its not, the exhaust pressure could possibly be cutting the water supply completely off? Could I test this theory by disconnecting the hose at the elbow and blip the throttle to full to see if the water flow completely shuts off or would that be a bad idea?

 

[Trooper182]

I think you are correct on the adjustment. Just went back and read the section on the cooling. Should be 3 turns out from seated. I think flush is incorrect.

 

[Trooper182]

Tried testing by turning the red cap 3 full turns out from seated and it is sitting further out from flush. This would mean less pressure on the spring. Confusing.

 

[racerxxx]

I checked my speedster, they're flush. I'm the original owner from 99 I know they're right. They might be just below flush. Here is my 96xp. Was a new valve set like the original. I think you might be over counting. Mark it with a sharpie.

 

[racerxxx]

Also, you're feeding from the hose. Dipping it in the water and checking will tell you if your having feed issues from the pump.

 

[Trooper182]

I checked my speedster, they're flush. I'm the original owner from 99 I know they're right. They might be just below flush. Here is my 96xp. Was a new valve set like the original. I think you might be over counting. Mark it with a sharpie.

Yup I marked it with a marker and definitely counted 3 turns out from bottom.

Also, you're feeding from the hose. Dipping it in the water and checking will tell you if your having feed issues from the pump.

I may have to go to the lake then tomorrow morning and put it in on the trailer. Would go now but a little too late.

 

[etemplet]

Instead of melting the coupling as evidence of malfunction buy a $30 infrared thermometer . Shoot different sections of the pipe while you are riding.... seat off of course. You'll find the hot spot long before it does any damage and you can even make adjustments on the WCV to document the effect of your changes. As mentioned you could have a cooling water flow issue with the ski in the water. Generally I can touch and hold my hand on any part of the engine and upper exhaust pipe while riding the ski.

As for flow checks of rhe lines, I used compressed air and blow through them to make sure they are clear. Just be gentle. The couple should not melt. I wonder if the internals of your pipe are fouled somehow. Try the air you'll hear it flowing.

Now my question is... "The oriface you are talking about is the washer inside the WCV correct? Where can we find markings and determine if we have the correct orifice for our skis.?"

Interesting thread hope you get it sorted out soon. Good Luck !!

 

[racerxxx]

No the 1/8 npt fitting that attaches the wcv to the water box is what I'm talking about. Every fitting on the cooling system is specific. They all have a number stamped on them.

 

[etemplet]

That little bitty thing? DAy-yum !! That would be difficult to see if you didn't know it was there. Really not much reason to check it as I don't think that would get replaced unless someone is deleting the WCV. Ya never know though. LOL Gonna make me check now and I'll have to measure the hole size of course. LOL Great info !

 

[racerxxx]

A new one comes with every wcv. It's probably fine to use the new ones but I always use my old fittings. But the elbows in the pipes and lower cylinder drains are all specific.

 

[etemplet]

LOL.. I rarely buy new parts but why would you buy a new WCV?

 

[racerxxx]

The bellows will get a hole in it, the bodies wear out, and people like peace of mind of having all new stuff on their restos so they can just go and ride and not tinker or tweak.

 

[Trooper182]

Ok so I disconnected all the hoses and blew compressed air through them and found no blockages. Took the wcv off and its fitting and everything is clear. Unfortunately in the process of removing the line that feeds the wcv the T fitting snapped. So off to lowes I go. I tried looking for a number on that fitting but there is none.

 

[Trooper182]

Ok so out here at the lake testing. When I pull the black hose from the wcv and rev the engine the water flow increases. I checked the Temps with my infrared thermometer and no Temps anywhere were above 150. I could place my hand on the manifold and cylinders. Water is coming out of the pee hole next to the tow hook. Here are some vids

 

[Trooper182]

Took it on a test run. Ran for about 20 min at varying speeds and a few long high speed runs. Stopped to check the coupler and could smell melting rubber. Felt the connector and it was hot and felt squishy. Hasn't burned through yet. Going to pull it and see what the insides look like. So still no fix

 

[etemplet]

Did you check the temperature at that point? 150 isn't all that hot. I wonder if you have a water flow problem coming OUT the back of the ski. That would back up everything and cause a temperature rise.. Just thinking. Good job on the testing.