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RESTO Assembly checklist

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colinkris1

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Hi all - so getting ready to put together my two machines. Supposed to get the motors back within a couple weeks now...I bought a 1998 and a 1999 Sea-Doo GTX limited back in late February. Both machines were in need of motor rebuilds. In the interest of time I pulled them right away and shipped them out for rebuilds. The 1998 grenaded wiping out both upper and lower crankcases and split the connecting rod in half. This is both good and bad news the way I see it. To me this shows the guy was likely riding wot and pow kerplop kerplooy. This indicates it was a running ski. Now I have very good mechanical skills and intuition but these are my first skis. After shipping em out I started reading the forum here. Found both machines had old Tempo gray fuel lines with green goo. At least one had a busted oil line with all lines everywhere in seemingly poor shape. Both hulls had oil in the bottom with the grenaded 1998 being the worst. After speaking with the previous owner again I found out that the 1999 still ran but he claimed it had crank noise. It had already been replaced at some point with an SBT motor. The motor rebuilder is providing me with welded crankcases. Mine weren't worth fixing but he had a supply of ones with a small hole in either the top or bottom that they welded and ground. He assures me that they will be pressure tested. Seeing as the previous owner was willing to talk to me after the buy - I figure he isn't hiding anything. Sooo sorry for the long intro now to the meat and potatoes part. Washed out the hulls. Bought all the right stuff to swap out fuel and oil lines. Bought 2 new Sea-Doo fuel selector valves. Bought 2 new glass mat batteries. Bought mikuni kits needles and seats. Bought a pop off tester. Both have fuel and oil in the tanks. Gotta get all that out - am I better siphoning or pulling em out? Guy claims he did senders on both fuel tanks and told me I didn't have to go down that road at least. I was careful to keep all parts separate (noticed the accelerator pumps are different between the 1998 and 1999). So is it easier or better to pull the tanks and wash em out since motors are out? Question 2 - once tanks are empty and clean, lines replaced, and fuel selectors swapped out where should I go next? I bought new synthetic Sea-Doo oil for injection tanks. I bought jet pump oil so I could look at those. So I saw a post about looking at wear ring gap from intake side. What about carbon ring? Sorry for so many questions, but want to get it right first time. So I rebuilt carbs and did pop off test with original springs even though bought mikuni kits. If you were me, what would you do and in what order and is there an easy or better way to do it all? Also, when I get the motors back, do compression check and how do I pressure test crankcases? Ok 123 go! Hit me with the guru checklist! Lol
 
Also should note here - guy I bought them from owned a garage so I assume he knew a lower end rap when he heard one. He is still taking calls from me if I need to ask him anything so I am hopeful all else is ok. Oh yeah! Engine alignment? I once did a rebuild of a boat motor cradle and re- glassed over it afterward. We had to buy an outdrive alignment tool. Even though I kept shims bagged and marked where they were, at least on motor has been out before so (to me at least) alignment is in question. Does anybody rent them out? I am in NH and there is a guy that does work on these not too far from me, but not sure if I can rent the tool. Don't really want to drop 200$ more for a 1 time (hopefully) use!
 
Just thought of something else. During carb rebuild, I found some literature about there being a check valve in the oil injection port to carb? I'm hoping that is in the line not the fitting itself? I mean mine is clear both directions (there was a pop off tester procedure here). I have only done 1 of the 4 carbs so far so haven't checked against another yet. If it is open both ways (no check) and it's bad in the carb fitting, can I just put an in line check valve? Ah man... I hope not too many questions here...
 
Hope I don't need a whole new carb over that! I already had such a stiff tempo fuel hose on the 1998 that it broke the fuel pump plastic fitting and I had to buy a whole new fuel pump housing! Poor design there - should have been brass.
 
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Maroon handle bar cover on the 98 is kinda faded. Haven't tried to do much in the way of looks cleanup yet. Seats have been reupholstered though...
 
Here is a view of the cases. Wiped out the starter too. Broken rod cut through like a buzz saw. Already bought new (used) reed and manifold piece as well as new (used) Sea-Doo starter. Thank you eBay!
 
Back to happier times when I first got them late February. Not that I had any illusions about what I was getting myself into. I just hope the motor rebuilder doesn't run late. We have already had a bunch of warm days and I plan on being ready to plant those motors as soon as they arrive!
 
Just saw SBT offers alignment tool for 150$ if returned in 30 days get 75 back. Not sure what the shipping situation is. Can buy on eBay with free shipping around 175$ or so....
 
The sbt engine you can call and give then the serial number on the sbt sticker. The other is the OEM tag, installed from day one. Keep up the good work!
 
The sbt engine you can call and give then the serial number on the sbt sticker. The other is the OEM tag, installed from day one. Keep up the good work!

Hi! So the SBT is in the 99 - I didn't use those folks to rebuild since I had a failed one in the ski. Not blaming them though. My guess is that it was a fuel line clogged filter or oil line since I found all of those things on both sleds. I was just curious if anybody could read the tag on the 98. It looked like it could have been the original motor. Both skis have been reported to have around 200 hours on them. Just got the batteries so haven't even keyed them up yet to look at gauges.
 
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