Ok so I got the new wear rings in, I have the impeller shaft, the thick washer that goes up against the impeller shaft and the jet pump and then on the other end goes the impeller. I put it in the vice just like I did when I took it apart. I tightened it as tight as I could and now the impeller doesnt spin at all......I cannot move it. I can see a little bit of light all the way around it so I know thats not the problem. I loosened the impeller back up and now I can spin it. Is there only so far I am supposed to go to tighten this thing? As far as I know I have everything that came apart.....it was just that shaft and that thick washer. Why won't it spin when I make it tight? Any help would be great cause I was trying to finish this tonight.....
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Arg! Am I that dumb?
- Thread starter HodgesZ28
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Use this information to back track your wear ring replacement. These are all the correct steps.
For starters....
1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!
2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.
3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.
4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.
5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.
They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.
6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...
7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)
8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)
9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.
10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.
11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.
12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring
13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....
14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.
Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.
Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..
15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.
16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.
17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.
18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil
Karl
For starters....
1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!
2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.
3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.
4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.
5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.
They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.
6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...
7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)
8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)
9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.
10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.
11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.
12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring
13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....
14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.
Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.
Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..
15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.
16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.
17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.
18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil
Karl
The one impeller on the metal jet pump I can make as tight as I can and there is a little bit of play in the shaft and it spins freely no problems. But on the newer plastic/poly jet pump when I make it as tight as I can there is no shaft play and I can't spin it at all. I don't see any difference though in them......I even switched impellers on the one that spins freely and it works just fine.
It sounds like that is the problem. I figured you could back track and check all your work with my instructions. I hope it helped.
Karl
Karl
Hell yea it helped! The only thing I didn't have was hoses going to my jet pumps....but everything else was dead nuts on!
Thanks again Karl!
That's why we're here...If you have any other problems let us know. I'm happy to help. :cheers:
Karl
Karl
Great post Karl. I am going to keep this for when I will need it in the future.
Glad you like it. I got lots of tricks up my sleeve... :rofl:
Now if I could only find that silly rabbit...:ack:
Karl
Now if I could only find that silly rabbit...:ack:
Karl
Karl I need your help again!!! UGH I swear if this would go right the world would come to an end....I think I may have pinched something else but I honestly don't know. Ok heres what happened, I got the impellers in and everything was spinning just fine, I put the cone on, tightened it up, put the jet pump oil in it, put the little hex cap on and then tried to put it on the boat. I could not get the splines to line up, I then took the pump back off and tried to turn the impeller and it takes all I can to move it just the slightest bit.......I then took the other pump which I had not put the cone on yet and it slid very smoothly on to the drive shaft, I then put the cone on, and tightened it up and added oil.......I didn't have time to try and start the motor to see if it spun freely but it sure did go on there easy. Is there any way when I put the cone on I pinched something?
Something isn't right...Is the wear ring too tight around the impeller? If all looks good pull the cone off and see what you can find. You shouldn't have a problem if you reassembled as it came apart.
Karl
Karl
Yea thats what I figured. I could spin them freely before I brought the cones into the picture.......once the cone was installed it doesnt move at all. I am going to drain the oil back into the container and start from scratch....maybe I pinched something....but there is no play at all and it wont spin at all.
Is there a special way the cone needs to sit on the pump? I looked in the cone and thought maybe there was a groove where the shaft and the cone meet but it looks like it just get bolted right on top. I gave up lastnight and went to bed. I am hoping to fix this when I get off of work with a clear mind because lastnight I was ready to throw the jetpump across the yard.
Things always look better with fresh eyes. Just look it over for something that isn't right. I can give advise, but I can't see what you are looking at...You could bring it to my house if you want. It's like 94* here today...beers 34* :rofl::cheers:
Karl
Karl
LOL, that sounds awesome but your about 1K miles away from me!......I am hitting the sack and doing it first thing in the AM.....I will keep you posted as to what I find....also with the boat in N, should I be able to reach up in the grill and spin the shaft? The pump that I actually did get on I want to make sure that spins freely.......as I put the cone on after I installed the pump.
You could spin the PTO inside by the engine with the spark plugs removed...It should spin counter clockwise.
Ah what's a couple miles for a road trip...I got Cold Draft Beer! :rofl:
Karl
Ah what's a couple miles for a road trip...I got Cold Draft Beer! :rofl:
Karl
Alright I just got it all back together....it appears what happened was that during the installation of the cone, I had the jet pump sitting upright "on the impeller" and that was enough to re-pinch the thrust washer. I guess it somehow got caught in the little bit of play they are supposed to have. I put the pump on its side and re-installed the cone and everything spins fine now. I am waiting for the silicone to dry and then I am going to hook the hose up to it and pray to god everything works.....id rather find out something doesn't spin here then take it to the river and be stuck out there.....i'll keep ya posted!
Is this a problem? I know these are supposed to smoke but damn....also on the port side where the pee hole is the water just dribbles out....is that ok or should it be like my other side and squirt out. The pervious owner told me it was repaired and it looks like there may have been some silicone that has gotten in it. Water does trickle out though and he said as long as it trickles out it will be fine...can I get some confirmation of this please. So check out the vids and let me know what you think "Karl".........lol.
Bothe engines should squirt out the "tell tail" . If ir is just dribbling out there is a problem with the cooling of the engine. Check all the cooling lines as to the problem of it squirting out. That's Why it has a "tell tail", so you know its cooling properly. I don't need to see the vids to know it must squirt the same on each engine.
Karl
Karl
Hmm yea I think there is some silicone in the line some where.....how many cooling lines are there? And arent they just held on by hose clamps? I was more worried about the smoke...lol, I know the 2-strokes put out some smoke but is this normal for my speedster?
Check the oil injector pump. There are 2 small lines that need to line up on the pump at idle position. Use a mirror to look close on the cable disk and the pump. If you look close you will see them. After the marks line up be sure the oil pump cable is in perfect sync with the carbs. If it moves a small amount oil injector pump should too.
Karl
Karl
Aight I'm finally able to take her out tomorrow and see how she runs! I also just ordered the hydro turf in purple marble! Once I install that, I think I am going to sell her....yes yes I just put about 1K in her but I should have no problem getting what I paid for it. I just bought a 2009 ZX10R and I have more use for that now going to and from work.....if my job was in the water id keep the boat...lol. I just want to thank you ALL for everything you have done.
The tell tail ended up being some dirt in the hose....lol. EASY fix!
I will post a bunch of pix and the boat in the for sale section once I get the turf installed. I do have all reciepts for everything I have had done since I bought it.
The tell tail ended up being some dirt in the hose....lol. EASY fix!
I will post a bunch of pix and the boat in the for sale section once I get the turf installed. I do have all reciepts for everything I have had done since I bought it.
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