Are reed switches in baffle repairable?

[Cartoonacus1]

Hi All, I'm new to the forum and PWC's and have been reading everything I can to get up to speed (pun intended) on the in's n out's of the Seadoo's. I am working on our first ones (97 GTI & 97 GTX). I can't thank everyone enough for the repository of knowledge being shared! After reading about the F1 and making the repair my sending unit still has a problem. About 3/4 tank (37 ohms) resistance my sending unit goes open, meaning no continuity. It's almost as if there must be a break on the board. Another member mentioned he has been able to free up the switches most times by moving the float back and forth. Does anyone have any experience with this? Old float and new float stop both have the same result. Is it worth cutting into the baffle again? Suck it up and deal as it's only a fuel gage? Replace the unit? I look forward to reading the replies (funny or serious, I try to learn from them all!). :cheers::biggrinjester:

 

[wfo speedracer]

Not worth the hassle IMHO

 

[Triorieel]

Assuming your seadoo has same low fuel warning as mine....I definitely would fix it. I really hated that beep when mine did that.

The sending unit works on reed switches. You can get them from ebay really cheap. You could always get a big magnet and sweep across them to see if its weak. But this won't fix your problem.

It's up to you if you find it worth it to fix. I myself would, but I know others can ride their unit with the low fuel beep without a care in the world.

 

[mikidymac]

I would get a good used one before I went to all the trouble replacing reed switch.

 

[Mekanix]

Its more damage and time to replace them, Find a good used one even if the F1 fuse is broken and start there.

The problem is removing the circuit board without damaging anything else or destroying the whole unit.

The F1 fuse replacement is pretty much all I do with them or a float replacement when they get bad. Besides that there are usually lots to be had.

Guys on here can hook you up with a good or repaired unit.

 

[Cartoonacus1]

Okay, so 1st thanks for your thoughts. Good insight on the buzzer! Figuring I'm gonna get a newer one. But, in the interest and pursuit of knowledge I thought I'd cut up the old one while I wait. Surprisingly I found the issue. There is a 10 ohm resistor that was bad. Just to confirm I did a quick hack solder job (don't judge) and I got quite a bit of range back. There's a flat spot where the resistance sweep doesn't grow then jumps to the 200-300 range. Thought you guys would wanna know. Now, what to do whilst I wait.

 

[Triorieel]

If you did a clean cut open with a knife or blade, you could have plastic welded it back together.

BUT

I think the float works on the other side...so assuming you didn't cut into any of the internal pipes...it will probably work as is. clean up the hanging debris though (And this is also assuming the new part will take a while).