JUSS10
Member
I'm relatively new here. My name is Justin and I got in to Seadoos when I was given my in laws 95 XP a few years back to try and keep running for family vacations on the river. Since then I've acquired a few more and have slowly been learning the ways of the rotax engine and seadoos as a whole (been into motorcycles, jeeps, snowmobiles, etc). Oh, I'm also an designer/engineer who works with electronics as a day job.
SO... One thing every ski I got in common had was broken VTS. After doing some research I was able to find there are quite a few issues that cause failures but for sure all of them had dead motors. Being the DIY type and in general being one to find the most affordable solution I figured I could find a way to fix this myself. I knew the VTS motor was nothing more than a power window motor so I started looking on ebay for the most affordable power window motor that was similar in appearance. I actually found two that were very cheap shipped to my door at a fraction of the cost of a used or re-manufactured VTS motor.
While waiting for the motors to arrived I disassembled the VTS unit by pulling the motor and the screw that the motor turns. I started to model up the screw in 3D cad so I could 3D print a custom screw that would mate to whatever end was on the window motors I had coming. (I knew the motors coming had a 7 tooth gear and a square shaft so they wouldn't work with the 8 tooth gear that the original screw had)
I ended up going with the square shaft motor as it had 3 of the 4 mounting points the same as the original motor. I had to knock the threaded inserts out so it would fit over the studs in the VTS housing. A few washers to shim it up and it fit well. I figured out how much I had to adjust the screw in cad and printed it out.
I glued the screw halves together with some dowels for alignment. screwed it in to the housing and mounted the motor. I had to use some thread locker on the nuts as some couldn't be tightened enough to contact the nylon washer in the nut.
This motor has 6 wires. 2 are the regular power wires and 4 go to some sort of hall effect sensor. I may use that sensor in the future for some sort of control module. Splice the two power wires into the existing wires for the motor and its good to go.
I have one day of rough water riding on it and so far so good. The printed parts were printed in an orientation that should be the strongest and they were printed solid as well.
The 95 XP I did this on will get quite a bit of use this week on the river so I will update with how its holding up at the end of the week.
Just thought I'd share this in case anyone else is looking for a different way to fix the VTS.
Justin
SO... One thing every ski I got in common had was broken VTS. After doing some research I was able to find there are quite a few issues that cause failures but for sure all of them had dead motors. Being the DIY type and in general being one to find the most affordable solution I figured I could find a way to fix this myself. I knew the VTS motor was nothing more than a power window motor so I started looking on ebay for the most affordable power window motor that was similar in appearance. I actually found two that were very cheap shipped to my door at a fraction of the cost of a used or re-manufactured VTS motor.
While waiting for the motors to arrived I disassembled the VTS unit by pulling the motor and the screw that the motor turns. I started to model up the screw in 3D cad so I could 3D print a custom screw that would mate to whatever end was on the window motors I had coming. (I knew the motors coming had a 7 tooth gear and a square shaft so they wouldn't work with the 8 tooth gear that the original screw had)
I ended up going with the square shaft motor as it had 3 of the 4 mounting points the same as the original motor. I had to knock the threaded inserts out so it would fit over the studs in the VTS housing. A few washers to shim it up and it fit well. I figured out how much I had to adjust the screw in cad and printed it out.
I glued the screw halves together with some dowels for alignment. screwed it in to the housing and mounted the motor. I had to use some thread locker on the nuts as some couldn't be tightened enough to contact the nylon washer in the nut.
This motor has 6 wires. 2 are the regular power wires and 4 go to some sort of hall effect sensor. I may use that sensor in the future for some sort of control module. Splice the two power wires into the existing wires for the motor and its good to go.
I have one day of rough water riding on it and so far so good. The printed parts were printed in an orientation that should be the strongest and they were printed solid as well.
The 95 XP I did this on will get quite a bit of use this week on the river so I will update with how its holding up at the end of the week.
Just thought I'd share this in case anyone else is looking for a different way to fix the VTS.
Justin
