Air in oil line

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ZoSoAir

ZoSoAir

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New here....

I bought a 2001 Sea-Doo GTX a few weeks ago. Took it to the lake last weekend for a test burn and everything went ok. Started looking through everything and noticed some air in one of the oil lines going to the cylinders. I took the hose off of the cylinder and used a small plunger to try to pull the oil through the hose. It sucked air only, no oil. I took the hose completely off, cleaned it out (there was a little crud in it) and put it back on with a new ziptie. The hose is good, flexible and wasn't broken. After I connected the hose back onto the oil pump I again tried to use the plunder to pull oil through. This time I got a vacuum....

Not sure what I need to do next to get this checked. How do I get oil though this hose without actually running the machine?

Also.... Would it hurt to clean this up with a little carb cleaner after I get everything back together? See picture below.

Thanks
 
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I hope I’m not messing you up by replying, I know the moderators that really know there shi? will look through for unanswered threads so hopefully someone else will come on and reply too but from my experience those lines should clear themselves of air. If I’ve had the oil lines off for a rebuild or off for any reason even to just change the oil filter I will premix the fuel in the tank to 50:1 and run the premix along with the oil injection until I’m sure that all the air is out of the system. Same when I purchase a new to me machine, I will run premix with the oil injection, it’s a little smoky but won’t hurt anything except a possible fouled plug although I’ve never fouled a plug from doing it. Also can mark the height of your oil on the tank, preferably while it’s in the water so it’s always on the same level to see if the injection system is using oil. Those are your 3/32 small oil lines to the crankcase correct?
 
burtshaver2021 said:
I hope I’m not messing you up by replying, I know the moderators that really know there shi? will look through for unanswered threads so hopefully someone else will come on and reply too but from my experience those lines should clear themselves of air. If I’ve had the oil lines off for a rebuild or off for any reason even to just change the oil filter I will premix the fuel in the tank to 50:1 and run the premix along with the oil injection until I’m sure that all the air is out of the system. Same when I purchase a new to me machine, I will run premix with the oil injection, it’s a little smoky but won’t hurt anything except a possible fouled plug although I’ve never fouled a plug from doing it. Also can mark the height of your oil on the tank, preferably while it’s in the water so it’s always on the same level to see if the injection system is using oil. Those are your 3/32 small oil lines to the crankcase correct?
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Your correct. I was able to bleed the lines to get the air out of the one last night. honestly if this was a car I would have no problem, but I know enough to know I have no clue with PWC's.

Thanks
 
Lol, im not overly experienced. I’ve rebuilt 2 top ends on the rev snowmobiles, done oil seals on them, stator, mag flywheel. Have 10 seadoo’s. Decided a few years back I wanted to learn about the 2 strokes as a hobby and not just work my life away, lol. Anyways, blab blab blab, sorry. If it were me, I would still run a tank of premix, same oil as in the tank until I’m positive the oil injection is working.
 
burtshaver2021 said:
Lol, im not overly experienced. I’ve rebuilt 2 top ends on the rev snowmobiles, done oil seals on them, stator, mag flywheel. Have 10 seadoo’s. Decided a few years back I wanted to learn about the 2 strokes as a hobby and not just work my life away, lol. Anyways, blab blab blab, sorry. If it were me, I would still run a tank of premix, same oil as in the tank until I’m positive the oil injection is working.
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I'm confident its working. Made a slight mess bleeding the line last night. I'm more concerned now on getting the old oil out now and some genuine BRP oil in there. The guy before me was a Wal-Mart king (battery, etc) so I'm sure the oil is off brand.

Thanks
 
That’s a good idea, I do the same. I always get the old oil out and replace with xps oil but man it’s getting expensive, 80.00 a gallon here plus tax. It does make a big difference though. I bought a 97 gsx with the 787, could get it to rev past 5000 rpm, ran great until higher rpm, ended up being carbon build up on the rave valve guilotines from the crappy oil. Machines running the xps they are clean as a whistle. I seen on a thread here Mikidymac mentioned that Lucas oil in the blue jug is API TC certified and low ash, I would feel confident running that oil as well, just make sure it has those designations not TCW-3 as that stuff may cause big problems.
 
burtshaver2021 said:
That’s a good idea, I do the same. I always get the old oil out and replace with xps oil but man it’s getting expensive, 80.00 a gallon here plus tax. It does make a big difference though. I bought a 97 gsx with the 787, could get it to rev past 5000 rpm, ran great until higher rpm, ended up being carbon build up on the rave valve guilotines from the crappy oil. Machines running the xps they are clean as a whistle. I seen on a thread here Mikidymac mentioned that Lucas oil in the blue jug is API TC certified and low ash, I would feel confident running that oil as well, just make sure it has those designations not TCW-3 as that stuff may cause big problems.
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I will look into that. Thanks for the info!
 
After you bleed the pump, start the motor, let it idle, then advance the oil injection pump to full. This will bleed your 3/32 oil lines.
 
That’s right, just don’t let the machine idle out of water any longer than 20 seconds or so out of the water, a minute or 2 out of water on the hose. If your running it on the hose make sure machine is never getting water from the hose without the engine running. Also I was thinking those lines should have cleared out when you had the machine out in the lake, I’d be concerned that it’s sucking air in from somewhere. Again, hate to repeat myself but I always run premix until I have it all worked out, doesn’t take long to destroy an engine if it’s not getting it’s oil
 
burtshaver2021 said:
That’s right, just don’t let the machine idle out of water any longer than 20 seconds or so out of the water, a minute or 2 out of water on the hose. If your running it on the hose make sure machine is never getting water from the hose without the engine running. Also I was thinking those lines should have cleared out when you had the machine out in the lake, I’d be concerned that it’s sucking air in from somewhere. Again, hate to repeat myself but I always run premix until I have it all worked out, doesn’t take long to destroy an engine if it’s not getting it’s oil
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I believe it was sucking air in that one line. When I took it off from the block and tried to pull pressure through it with a small plunger all I was getting was airflow. Once I took the hose off the oil pump, cleaned it, and reinstalled with a new zip tie I got vacuum with the machine off.

Thanks
 
burtshaver2021 said:
That’s a good idea, I do the same. I always get the old oil out and replace with xps oil but man it’s getting expensive, 80.00 a gallon here plus tax. It does make a big difference though. I bought a 97 gsx with the 787, could get it to rev past 5000 rpm, ran great until higher rpm, ended up being carbon build up on the rave valve guilotines from the crappy oil. Machines running the xps they are clean as a whistle. I seen on a thread here Mikidymac mentioned that Lucas oil in the blue jug is API TC certified and low ash, I would feel confident running that oil as well, just make sure it has those designations not TCW-3 as that stuff may cause big problems.
Click to expand...
Is this the one were all talking about? The safe to use oil? LOL

Thanks

81BMR3w712L.jpg
 
If that’s a 787 should run full synthetic, 717 that oil would be fine. I run the full synthetic in all my machines but that’s just to keep things simple instead of having different oils around
 
I just took a look back at an old thread, It says the semi synthetic will be fine in the 787, you will just need to clean the rave valves a little more often.
 
Who knows, I’ve never used anything except the XPS, I mentioned the Lucas because I was considering changing over due to the cost of the xps but if Lucas doesn’t have full synthetic I will probably stick with the xps, maybe go to the semi synthetic Lucas. I had a look online and didn’t see a full synthetic from Lucas with the API TC rating. I wouldn’t use that snowmobile oil, may be the same stuff but just so I didn’t have to worry I wouldn’t as I don’t see the rating on it. Your good with the semi synthetic Lucas with the API TC rating or the XPS. Just clean the rave valves once every season or two
 
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