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-Aftermarket handlebars needed, suggestions? Huge people on small jet ski problems

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1983

1983

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-Finally got my 96' XP running good. Current issue is porpoising pretty bad. I know these model skis are prone to it, and my VTS is inop. ( not planning on fixing ) and set at a neutral to slightly down setting.

-I am 6'6" tall about 210 lbs. and I noticed after riding with a group of friends that took pictures of us one weekend. I am pretty much riding this ski like easy rider :cool: because my arms are so long. Im sitting nearly on the back of the ski which doesnt help the porpoising. I have tried to tuck my legs up under the handle bars and hunch up on ski but its close and I can't steer afterwards.

-Now I need some suggestions on bars or if anyone is selling an aftermarket setup. I know the UMI complete package would be best but not looking to invest $400-$500 right now. Just bars is what I would like. Going to do finger throttle also while replacing everything.

Thanks,
Rob
 
-I found this xp forsale, and this is what I am going for. Stock yoke/stem, and aftermarket bars.....

bars1.jpg

bars2.jpg
 
you can put aftermarket bars on your stock stem, no need to buy extra parts besides the bars themselves except maybe an upgrade to a finger throttle, or umi stop/start (I like those).

I rarely sat down when I rode my XP, I was always standing up, but at 5'9" my sitting postion was never a factor.

i'm not sure how bar's only will change your sitting position THAT much.. maybe i'm wrong. but the stem itself sticks out quite a bit..

maybe some pic's will help...

here's my stock stem with some aftermarket bars..

173.jpg


my buddy John's

369.jpg


UMI (IMO, it appears the the UMI shaves off at least 2-3 inches maybe?) just guessing

370.jpg
 
The first pic of your bars is what im looking for.

Can you give a parts list of what your bars brand are ( looks like ada racing or maybe that's just the pad )
Finger throttle ?
Grips? ( looks like most people suggest the lockable odi grips )

Thanks,
Rob
 
1) parts list... A set of old cruddy bars that my mechanic had sitting in a bucket, (just the pad was purchased)

2) finger throttle (vs thumb) Is my preferred. where you use your index / middle finger to hit the throttle vs your thumb, it might give you the feeling that your an inch or two further away. you will see the finger throttle in pic 1, vs how your's should look if its stock with the thumb throttle on the other side of the bar.

3) grips.. ODI rogues are my personal favorite. Also In pic 1. But everybody has their taste.
 
Cool, thanks. Yep, Im familiar with the finger throttle setup. Just sold a yamaha that I was going to salvage it from but guy wanted whole ski so I left it on there.

Grips look like the ones i found. They look to be pretty good diameter.

Bars, haha I need to find some sitting around also!

Rob


Spimothy Leary said:
1) parts list... A set of old cruddy bars that my mechanic had sitting in a bucket, (just the pad was purchased)

2) finger throttle (vs thumb) Is my preferred. where you use your index / middle finger to hit the throttle vs your thumb, it might give you the feeling that your an inch or two further away. you will see the finger throttle in pic 1, vs how your's should look if its stock with the thumb throttle on the other side of the bar.

3) grips.. ODI rogues are my personal favorite. Also In pic 1. But everybody has their taste.
Click to expand...
 
I ended up with a set of Renthal bars from a dirt bike. They were blue anodized and I painted them gloss black. I had ODI rogues on for a while but I found with my finger throttle the throttle "arm" was actually contacting the grip, not allowing full throttle. I ended up changing to some BMX grips from walmart. They work fine.
 
You guys getting lucky with these close to free bar finds! haha

I will make note of the finger contacting grips once I get all my stuff ordered and install time comes around.

Rob

Krispy said:
I ended up with a set of Renthal bars from a dirt bike. They were blue anodized and I painted them gloss black. I had ODI rogues on for a while but I found with my finger throttle the throttle "arm" was actually contacting the grip, not allowing full throttle. I ended up changing to some BMX grips from walmart. They work fine.
Click to expand...
 
I have a parts ski next to this one on the trailer. I have opted to not mess with repairing the VTS on mine. Although the motor and encasement is very dry and sealed up very well. Motor works great also as I used POS and NEG connections to drive motor up and down for my manual setting. It probably needs the module behind the motor.

Rob


CReynoldsMIZ said:
Not having a VTS on an X4??!?!? Kill me now. I got one for sale cheap if you want
Click to expand...
 
I have a used set of UMI bars that I'd sell for $40 plus shipping. No pad, just the bars and the cross member. I can post a pic if you're interested. I also have a UMI start/stop/vts aluminum housing I'd sell for $50.


DSC00838.JPG
 
ski-d00 said:
I have a used set of UMI bars that I'd sell for $40 plus shipping. No pad, just the bars and the cross member. I can post a pic if you're interested. I also have a UMI start/stop/vts aluminum housing I'd sell for $50.


View attachment 27402
Click to expand...

I want this VTS start stop housing. If the OP isn't interested please let me know.
 
ski-d00 said:
Krispy, if you want the housing, just send $50 +$7 shipping by paypal to ohiopowersports@woh.rr.com and it will ship tomorrow but make sure to put UMI start/stop/vts housing in the title. Thanks, Jeff
Click to expand...

PayPal sent, check my email before shipping please, just wanted to ensure a few things about the button holder.

Thanks.

To the OP here is a pic of my aftermarket bars on stock stem

399.jpg


400.jpg
 
krispy has a very similar setup, it will spare you a couple of inches, and sometimes that makes a difference. and IMO just throwing some shallow bars on the stem, removing the pad, finger throttle will certainly make a difference.

umi, much more expensive would give you the extra inch or two that will help further.

re: porpoising in general with the xp: i found that if when in the sitting back position that if I avoided straight line runs, and tended to do slow S curve glides back and forth while cruising that I could stay just a few degree's off center that I could relieve the porpoising almost completely. I just kind of feel the porpoising and start to glide softly while varying the throttle to find a sweet spot that skipped along vs bounced along. In general, my ride was actually more stable when avoiding straight line runs at most speed and being aware that just a blip up or down in rpm will eliminate the bounce.

other suggestions: if your clear that due to weight distribution you will be back heavy on the hull when riding and if your riding mostly flat water and having issues with porpoising then maybe just forget about the bars for a second and
consider trim tabs, and tweek the vts down a hair. That might help just as much.

(also, an option is to replace VTS is using a manual trim from an old HX, for less tha $50), maybe shop around for one, they are rare, but only $50 when you find them.
 
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