Adjusting Low Speed Control on Utopia w/200 Opti

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cymertony

Active Member
I am assuming all the Mercury powered Sea Doo boats have the low speed steering control, which increases engine speed from idle when the steering wheel is full right or full left (to help with maneuvering when docking or trailering). When I first bought my boat in 2021 it only worked when steering to the left. This is one of the things I am most glad to have fixed, since I use this feature every time I go out. Here are my notes on checking operation and adjusting for my 2001 Utopia w/200 Optimax. Instructions are different if you have the 210/240. Hopefully I got my left/right labeled properly... it's been awhile since I did it.

Steering system drawing is on page 49 of the shop manual and instructions for low speed control adjustment are on page 55.

To access the low speed control actuators, you have to remove the instrument panel. First, remove the bow backrest cushion (diagram on page 64, instructions on page 75), then loosen the bolts holding the instrument panel in place and remove to gain access to the steering assembly.

Here's the view under the instrument panel once the seat back is removed. Gauges will need to be disconnected prior to removing the instrument panel.

20210906_180315.jpg

Here is the disconnected instrument panel:

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Here's the view from top once instrument panel is removed:

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Disconnect the steering assist sensor cable and connect meter to the sensor side. Set up the meter to measure continuity with the audible beep

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Check the sensor when turning to the left and confirm the "feel". In my case the left side was working just fine, so I did not make any adjustment. Note the distance between the actuator and the sensor.

244640477_10224164009001031_7438669425386112762_n.jpg

Check the sensor when going to the right and confirm the "feel". In my case the magnetic "actuator" was too far away from the sensor to activate it, so I removed the loctite/sealant and adjusted the actuator until it had the same feel as when turning to the left, then used loctite to seal it back up so it wouldn't move.

Right Actuator.jpg


All done... put it all back together.

Hope this helps!
Tony
 
@cymertony , MAJOR kudos! This is a fantastic writeup. Seems like there aren't that many of these boats around any more but posts like this will keep the ones that are still around here a little longer. Mine doesn't work in either direction, so I'm hoping it's adjustment and not something more...expensive.

I noticed you did this based on "feel" where the manual has measurements--any particular reason why you chose to do it this way? Is there continuity on the multimeter when the wheel hits the lock and the adjustment is correct? Just curious.

Again, thanks for the effort and expertise!
 
Thanks!

The low speed control for the optimax engines are literally a switch that is actuated by one of two magnets. A closed switch engages the feature. If the switch isn't working no matter how close the magnetic actuators are, then either the magnets are bad or the switch is bad. Then you contact someone like mikum1968 and see if he is still parting out his boat, check ebay, rig it up spectacularly, or just do without. On the non-optimax engines, the process involves adjusting a throttle cable and seems like a whole other exercise.

The feel part is due to the rubber stop at each end of the steering travel, so there is still some movement if you push the steering into the stop very slightly. You can adjust the magnetic actuators so they close the switch right at the end of left/right travel, or in my case, they are adjusted to close the switch when you go slightly past the end of travel, pushing into that rubber stop. I did it this way so I have more control of when it engages (revs to 1800-1900 RPM I believe).

The multimeter in continuity mode, attached to the disconnected switch just tells you when the switch is closed, and you can adjust it so the switch closes with the "feel" you want in the steering wheel at it's right and left stops.

Here's what the manual says:

"Ensure that the signal only engages when the
steering is turned fully into the rubber stop at each
end to the steering travel, and that the steering
assist disengages from the force of the rubber
stopper only.

As a final check, slowly rotate the steering to ensure
that the LSC will not stay engaged without
manually holding the steering wheel into the
bumpers.

FYI, the first time I launched, even though I knew about the feature... I wasn't thinking about it and it surprised the heck out of me. Now it's a very normal part of docking/trailering for me, or any type of maneuvering where the engine is at idle or at very low RPMs.

Tony
 
this makes total sense, and your idea of setting it to engage at "lock + small amount of rubber stop" seems like a great idea. I'll dive in hopefully later today and see what's up. At some point, I need to learn how to drive the dang thing, with or without the bells and whistles.
 
this makes total sense, and your idea of setting it to engage at "lock + small amount of rubber stop" seems like a great idea. I'll dive in hopefully later today and see what's up. At some point, I need to learn how to drive the dang thing, with or without the bells and whistles.
This is a newer electromagnetic system I had not seen. Mine (2001) uses small cable from helm to engine. Learned something!
 
This is a newer electromagnetic system I had not seen. Mine (2001) uses small cable from helm to engine. Learned something!
That's a rare thing indeed 'round here. We take, take, take knowledge from you every day, glad to send something back your way. You've helped many of us more than you can imagine

Tony
 
On my 2000 240EFI... this off-throttle steering assist is mechanical. Connected to the steering wheel is a cable that is tugged slightly at full-left-right steering lock. This cable is connected to the throttle body and slightly opens the TB when actuated giving the throttle a slight "goose" to help steering.

Pics: left-behind helm steering connection, right-engine TB (behind VST)
OTSA.jpg
 
Curious, my 2004 utopia will not turn to the right at HIGH speeds but at low is ok???
Any thoughts?

Stop using your boat until the end of the steering cable at the nozzle is completely checked.

On your trailer-
Move the nozzle left and right by hand. Does it move easily? Any odd noises?
Roughness, crunching sounds mean it is time for a new cable.

Remove the rubber bellows from the steering cable at the nozzle. What I suspect you have is the crimp in the stationary part of the cable and the telescoping tube has failed. Not repairable. If you can pull the sleeve (by hand) and see the inner control rod, it is time for a new cable.

If your steering cable is rusty and makes grinding noises, it can fail at any time. Failure at 50mph would ruin your day.

The cable itself is not a SeaDoo part. It is just a heavy duty control cable for many app's. Teleflex is one brand, but there are others.
Cable is avail. on ebay and other places. About $200. Don't forget the rubber bellows. It is the only thing that prevents seawater intrusion into the cable. About 2 - 3 hours to remove and replace.
 
First thanks for the reply.... No, it will not turn easily, sticks to the right-hand side. The bellows are only 3/4 the way up and I can see the cable so I guess a new cable?
How hard are they to put in?
 
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