About to buy a boat!

[Bdt1967]

Well kinda, I have a 1980 Glastron SSV-168 with an I/O 120, I spent the better part of last winter restoring this boat, new floor, new seats, cd player ect. It runs nice but since riding in my friends 98 SeaRayder, I wanted a jet boat. I sold my jetskis 2 years ago to get into full sized boating, almost immediately I missed the skis, spinning around like a top, the speed, so needless to say I wanted to get back into it. Last week my friend called me about a couple that just had a baby and wanted to trade their jetboat in for a more family oriented boat. I called them and they were thrilled to hear about my boat, they fell in love with it. The boat they would be trading me is a 1995 Speedster with the twin 80's. Its in near mint condition, good compression on all clynders, and starts like new.

Here is my questions.

1. How reliable are these boats, I boat ALOT durning the summer months and having a broken boat would hurt bad.

2. Anything I should know about these, things to look out for, common problems.

3. I know how much trouble 1 engine can be, with 2 I am nervous that I may have constant problems with either engine. Is this the case, or do they tend to be fairly reliable?

4. Do you think its an even trade? Am I getting the shaft? My boat is almost 30 years old and has 900 hours on it, it looks pretty but 30 years on the water can hurt a boat. This is a strait across deal, what do you think?

5. Last question, the steering wheel is cracked on the boat, where can I get another, and how do I get it off. It doesn't have to be a factory wheel.

Thanks for your help guys!

 

[Elite6]

My take

My basic thoughts on the older JB's

Here is my questions.

1. How reliable are these boats, I boat ALOT durning the summer months and having a broken boat would hurt bad.

I think they are very reliable if you keep up the maintenance and keep from sucking up rocks/weeds

2. Anything I should know about these, things to look out for, common problems.

Cavitation and propulsion systems - it would do you a lot of good to understand exactly how they work. Gauges also seem to crap out occasssionally from my experience.

3. I know how much trouble 1 engine can be, with 2 I am nervous that I may have constant problems with either engine. Is this the case, or do they tend to be fairly reliable?

I would say having 2 engines makes it twice as likely for one component to fail. However, if your one engine fails on the water you have a second to get you home.

4. Do you think its an even trade? Am I getting the shaft? My boat is almost 30 years old and has 900 hours on it, it looks pretty but 30 years on the water can hurt a boat. This is a strait across deal, what do you think?

Not sure - I would think the 95 is worth $3000-$4500 depending on the condition?

5. Last question, the steering wheel is cracked on the boat, where can I get another, and how do I get it off. It doesn't have to be a factory wheel.

Not sure - pick up a manual online somewhere (if you can find one) else I think a premium membership here entitles you to such knowledge.

 

[cjb]

720s are good engines. Check compression, ware ring and impeller for damage. The most important thing is test drive the boat. Take two friends with you and see if you like they way the boat handles the water. I tell you it will be a completely different animal that what you currently have.

 

[Bdt1967]

Thanks for the reply's, I am going to go for a test run tonight, I will let you know what I come up with.

 

[Bdt1967]

Well, the boat ran great, both engines had good compression, feeling the wear rings was pretty difficult, and I tried my best to look over the impellers but it was also difficult. The bottom of the boat had NO signs of wear, I dont think the thing has ever been beached, it had a nick on the rear drivers quarter, probably from hitting a dock or something, of course the steering wheel was damaged, and the sun had faded the glove box lid just like it did to my SPX's. The blower, bilge, all work as they should. After putting it in the water and exiting the no wake zone a smile appeared on my face It is indeed a totally different animal. Made my old Glastron feel like a model T. Anyway, I ran her hard because I knew if something was going to break I wanted it to happen then. We pulled the boat out of the water, and I pulled it home. They had all the documentation, including the service manual. Now I have the task of installing my fish finder, cleaning, replacing the wheel, all before the 26th. :ack: I noticed that the batteries are in some kind of plastic case, as is most of the electronics, has anybody ever switched this over to 1 battery?

 

[cjb]

Congratulation. Boat looks good.

If it was me, I leave the two battery set up. In the water, two is always better than one.

 

[Bdt1967]

True that, I will for now but when the time comes to replace those little motor cycle batteries I may be thinking 1 is better than 2.

 

[seadoo GTS 1993]

wat happened to the steering wheel?

 

[Bdt1967]

I have no clue, somebody probably got pissed off :boxing_smiley:

I read in the service manual how to remove the old one. I went down to Pepboys today at lunch and bought a Grant wheel and adapter to put on it, should look much better after tonight.

 

[seadoo GTS 1993]

sounds good, let us kno how it turns out

 

[hydro_37]

Nice buy and good looking boat. Have fun.

 

[SeadooBOB Square Pants]

Well, the boat ran great, both engines had good compression, feeling the wear rings was pretty difficult, and I tried my best to look over the impellers but it was also difficult. The bottom of the boat had NO signs of wear, I dont think the thing has ever been beached, it had a nick on the rear drivers quarter, probably from hitting a dock or something, of course the steering wheel was damaged, and the sun had faded the glove box lid just like it did to my SPX's. The blower, bilge, all work as they should. After putting it in the water and exiting the no wake zone a smile appeared on my face It is indeed a totally different animal. Made my old Glastron feel like a model T. Anyway, I ran her hard because I knew if something was going to break I wanted it to happen then. We pulled the boat out of the water, and I pulled it home. They had all the documentation, including the service manual. Now I have the task of installing my fish finder, cleaning, replacing the wheel, all before the 26th. :ack: I noticed that the batteries are in some kind of plastic case, as is most of the electronics, has anybody ever switched this over to 1 battery?

My boat came with one battery but to get it in and out you have to remove the oil reserve which is a huge pain in the azz. I agree, stick with two batteries I was thinking of switching back actually. But the more cracking amps can't be a bad thing.

 

[Bdt1967]

The wheel installation went off without a hitch, the old one was kinda hard to get off so I fabricated a crude gear puller, pulled the old one off, slid the adapter down onto the shaft, popped the wheel on, and tighten the heck out of it. Looks better than stock for sure! I will post pics later.

As far as the battery is concerned, I think I will stick with what I have for right now. Or at least till they die, those little batteries are spensive!

 

[Bdt1967]

Took the boat out for the first REAL test last night, the day I bought the boat it was crazy windy, couldn't do much. But yesterday was 102 degrees and very little wind. I took the boat to the lake to find problems and I did find a few. Also I have a few questions. One of the problems I found is that the exhaust hose that connects the tuned pipe to the water box was cracked, thus releasing exhaust gas and water into the engine compartment, I have had this happen before so it wasnt a big deal, till my new one comes in from Riva I fixed the problem with ducktape. Should hold for a few trips. Second, when I initially looked at the boat I dumped some water into the engine compartment, kicked on the bildge and saw water come pouring out of the back, that was a good enough test for me at the time. But yesterday when removing the plugs from the boat I noticed that there are 3 holes that appear to be bildge holes, I poured some water in the engine compartment and kicked on the bildge, water only came out of 1 of the holes the other 2 did nothing, my question is what the heck are these holes for? I followed the lines back but they disappeared beneath the engines. Any ideas? Next, what is the safe RPM range on these boats, on my Mercruiser they recommended WOT be around 4000 RPM, last night when I punched the gas the RPM gauges shot up to around 7000 seems high but then again that's the beauty of a Rotax. The last issue I have, is with the in floor storage compartment, its impossible to open, I had to use my key to pry it up and open it, seems like they would have put a handle on it or something, all that they put was that little disk in the center and it is far to small for me to grab and pull up. Is this the best design they could think of or am I just too stupid to figure it out?

Anyhow, the boat did great, I am simply amazed at how much faster this boat is compared to my old Glaston, that thing would barely do 35, this boat did 50 on the speedo, not sure what actual is, next calm day I will take my GPS and find out. I love the boat, my wife doesn't like it as much do to the smaller size, but I guess that's an excuse to one day jump up to the 200!

 

[cjb]

The other two holes are probably the connectors to flush the engines. If you look closely, you will see that they have threads on the inside. You can buy quick connects from Seadoo or aftermarket. Just like a jet ski. You attached the quick connect and your done. No need to screw the hose in every time you are going to flush.

7k rpms are good. That means your engines are working great.

It sound like the handle is broken. I found one exactly the same at Bass pro for like $20. Take a picture of it so we can see it. Bellow is a pic of the Bass Pro lock.

 

[Tysonk]

Old steering wheel removal

The wheel installation went off without a hitch, the old one was kinda hard to get off so I fabricated a crude gear puller, pulled the old one off, slid the adapter down onto the shaft, popped the wheel on, and tighten the heck out of it. Looks better than stock for sure! I will post pics later.

As far as the battery is concerned, I think I will stick with what I have for right now. Or at least till they die, those little batteries are spensive!

Hello, I have been unable to find a free copy of the 1995 jetboat service manual. I need to remove the steering wheel. I got off the center trim piece. Removed the lock-nut and washer but was unable to get the wheel off. How did you remove yours from this point.

I have the same boat. They are meant to run around 7k rpm at WOT. As lond as the rev limiter is not kicking in dont worry about it.

I have been trying to find a flush kit for this boat. I thought the flush kit adapter was on the top of the Hull under the engine compartment hood. There is one on each side. I have been unable to find a kit that fits on these. Do you have any info as to the flush kit connections?

I know that the drain holes in the passenger compartment drain out the back via the holes with the rubber flap. I am also curious as to the purpose of the other holes.

The floor storage compartment sticks on mine. It seems the rubber seal bonds to the gelcote around the hole. When stuck I pry mine open with a screw driver and it is fine for the day. CJB is correct there should be a handle that lifts and unlatches the compartment similar to the picture he posted.

Thanks in advance,
Tyson

 

[cjb]

Our boats have 4 flushing connectors in total. the two on top and two in the rear by the pumps.

here is what the Quick connect looks like. This one is on Ebay now item #220424488151

The white part screws in to the hole by the pump and is left there. Then only screw the quick connect to the hose and plug in the hose to the boat whenever you need to flush.

 

[Bdt1967]

It wasn't easy, but from that point it WILL pull off, be sure to pull strait out, not in an upward or sideways manner, put your thumbs on the shaft and the rest of your fingers on the wheel and pull like you are trying to break a stick in half. Its kinda hard but it will come eventually. I had to make a puller, but I think it would have come if I would have worked on it a little more. There is a service manual on ebay for this boat right now for like 7 bucks, not bad considering the amount of info you get.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-1...20429184862QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

I purchased this flush kit the other day, it is the one the service manual shows. Part number 295500068
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0421044998&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I am leaving for my 1 year anniversary trip tonight so tinkering with the boat is a negative this weekend. But after work on Monday you can bet I will figure out what these holes are for.

 

[Bdt1967]

Our boats have 4 flushing connectors in total. the two on top and two in the rear by the pumps.

here is what the Quick connect looks like. This one is on Ebay now item #220424488151

That appears to be too big to fit in the holes, they are only about a half inch in diameter. I checked them out, they dont appear to have any threads.

 

[Tysonk]

flush kit

Our boats have 4 flushing connectors in total. the two on top and two in the rear by the pumps.

here is what the Quick connect looks like. This one is on Ebay now item #220424488151

The white part screws in to the hole by the pump and is left there. The only screw the quick connect to the hose and plug in the hose to the boat whenever you need to flush.

I ordered the one from SBTontheweb. I thought they sent me the wrong one since it would not connect to the top flush adapters. I will try the lower ones. It looks from the picture to be the same as the one you posted. Thank you, this was a point of frustration for me since i have tried 3 different ones.

 

[cjb]

I ordered the one from SBTontheweb. I thought they sent me the wrong one since it would not connect to the top flush adapters. I will try the lower ones. It looks from the picture to be the same as the one you posted. Thank you, this was a point of frustration for me since i have tried 3 different ones.

Yes they are for the lower one. Make sure the top ones are caped or water will shoot out them

 

[Bdt1967]

The other two holes are probably the connectors to flush the engines. If you look closely, you will see that they have threads on the inside. You can buy quick connects from Seadoo or aftermarket. Just like a jet ski. You attached the quick connect and your done. No need to screw the hose in every time you are going to flush.

7k rpms are good. That means your engines are working great.

The winner! Thats exactly what those holes are for! Hooked up my flush kit to the upper connections started the engine, turned on the water and sure enough, water came dumping out of those lower holes. Do I need to block these off when I flush the engine?

 

[Tysonk]

Flushing

I purchased the Shop Manual for the 95. Look up flushing in the manual, it tells you to use a hose clamp to clamp a hose in the engine compartment. I would think that this hose leads to the holes in question.

I took a look at my rear holes and there are no threads to screw a flush kit into. So... looks like I will have to order yet another flush kit, maybe this time I will get it right...

T

 

[Tysonk]

The winner! Thats exactly what those holes are for! Hooked up my flush kit to the upper connections started the engine, turned on the water and sure enough, water came dumping out of those lower holes. Do I need to block these off when I flush the engine?

BDT,

My shop manual says the flush kit part number is 295 500 099. Which is not availible on Ebay. Can you confirm that the hose coupler that comes with part number 295500068 does actually connect with the top flush fittings of the 95 Speedster?

Thanks,
T

 

[Bdt1967]

BDT,

My shop manual says the flush kit part number is 295 500 099. Which is not availible on Ebay. Can you confirm that the hose coupler that comes with part number 295500068 does actually connect with the top flush fittings of the 95 Speedster?

Thanks,
T

Yes, that is the one I purchased for my 95 Speedster. It connects to the upper flush fittings. Works perfectly.