Yeah I here you on that. They hit the tops and bottoms a little but not the sides of the ports. I'll have detail that a bit more. You shouldn't risk cutting a finger when you stick it in a port lol.
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A Look into Racing!
- Thread starter Kingsspeedshop
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I got some work done today. You can see Wisco's weight saving wrist pin and removed material in the piston above the wrist pin hole.
Had to use the real wrist pin bearings
I put the engine together with no rings on a 3 hole base gasket for my squish test. It was mid 40's in the smallest places so I ran with it. I trimmed the gasket out with scissors and rubbed a thin coat of Threebond 1211 on both sides. I was able to time the rv and get the intake cover on before I left today.
Had to use the real wrist pin bearings
I put the engine together with no rings on a 3 hole base gasket for my squish test. It was mid 40's in the smallest places so I ran with it. I trimmed the gasket out with scissors and rubbed a thin coat of Threebond 1211 on both sides. I was able to time the rv and get the intake cover on before I left today.
I know you are the last one to tell how to do things Matt. But squish is much easier and more accurate if you put a single piece of solder in the exact middle of the piston over the wrist pin then put the head on. Also do it with no base gasket then just subtract the actual measurements from the spec and that will give you the target gasket thickness so you only have to do it once.
Also nice to see Wiseco uses the correct L top ring instead of some of the cheaper brands.
Also nice to see Wiseco uses the correct L top ring instead of some of the cheaper brands.
What I don't dig is the no rings personally, too much rock in there with no rings. But 100% it should be done with a base gasket and fully torqued. Believe it or not you will compress the base gasket. If I had to take the head off every time I checked the squish I would be mental. I must check the squish on each cylinder front and back of the pin about 8 times. So I would need to pull the head 16 times if I laid a piece of solder across the piston. I also like the bump of the rotation when checking.
But, ask 10 guys and you get 10 different ways. I'll stick to my way you guys stick to yours. As long as it's not a grenade it doesn't really matter.
I just do it the way Group K told me to twenty years ago and it hasn't failed yet. Like you said though many ways to skin a cat.
Also Group K's Precision Top End Assembly of the Laydown Rave Motors is a good read.
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I'll re-check the squish today now that the rings are in. I did have things torqued and I did my checks inline with the wrist pins. If I'm under the mid 40's I'd be tempted to trim up a fatter gasket. I don't like pushing it with squish or compression but I normally am not building a race engine.
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
Do you have a target compression?
The squish was down in the 30's with the rings on so I ended up trying a bunch of different heads today. I landed on one that's not in the best shape internally but it measures better. I can see where they scribed "use Wiseco" in it so that's a good sign.
Mikidi- it was good to see those squish #'s today I was just about to read up on it when I saw that message in my phone. I'm a 50-60 guy normally so I thought 30's would be out of the question. I might send the first head to GroupK or elsewhere and have them cut just a little more squish into it.
235psi would be max compression and 200 would be the least amount.
I spent all day on this sucker again
Notice the flywheel is missing some pieces :coolgleam:
Mikidi- it was good to see those squish #'s today I was just about to read up on it when I saw that message in my phone. I'm a 50-60 guy normally so I thought 30's would be out of the question. I might send the first head to GroupK or elsewhere and have them cut just a little more squish into it.
235psi would be max compression and 200 would be the least amount.
I spent all day on this sucker again
Notice the flywheel is missing some pieces :coolgleam:
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Yes both of the ones that fit the best are cut and decked by the late George Graboski. He was HPT (High Performance Tuning) and Minnetonka4me has his personal ski under restoration now. George also cut the RV. I bought a bunch of his stuff someone had found.
The cases were ported by Bo Dupriest (Neptune). He also ported out the intake manifold.
The cases were ported by Bo Dupriest (Neptune). He also ported out the intake manifold.
HAHA yeah I like that. I want Zach to want to buy it someday though, better try to match the boat a little lol.
I spent tons of time swapping heads and measuring squish just to put the one back on that I started with. That other one had over 250 psi of compression! Now we are at 225 in the front hole and 232 in the rear. I'm sure things will equalize when the rings break in. The head has "35cc" and "110 oct" engraved in it.
I passed the pressure test and threw some paint on it.
I'm thinking about pulling that stock manifold and going with a Spec 2 now. These Novi's came off a Spec 2 ski.
I passed the pressure test and threw some paint on it.
I'm thinking about pulling that stock manifold and going with a Spec 2 now. These Novi's came off a Spec 2 ski.
Thanks. I spray one squirt at a time in the can's lid and then flick it at the engine.
glsmohio
Well-Known Member
Is that purple high temp?
No but nothing on there should ever be too hot to touch.
98GCLimited
Active Member
Engine and paint job looks good. I vote to put the spec 2 on.
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
This thing should be vicious[emoji106]
deadlokd
Member
I'd also like to go see. Just let us know the dates. And I think I'm gonna build a ski now. Thanks guys. And your ski looks great. Have fun.
Kingsspeedshop
Active Member
Well i got my Conversion motor mounts on Monday from John AKA "Critracer". These things are top notch and THICK. They are machined perfectly and attention to detail is awesome and they even came with instructions!. I finally got time today to get into the shop and do some grinding. I had to grind out some material of the inner hull to make mounts sit flat. Was quick work with a angle grinder with a flap disc on it. Made a hell of a mess though..Cleaned that all up and ready to tig weld the battery mount up tomorrow. it will also act as a rigid brace for any flex on front mount.
Nice. That's a legit looking product he put together there.
Yeah I want to go with a Spec 2 because these Novi's where last on a Spec 2 ski ported by the same guy who ported these cases. The jetting should be close or right on.
Yeah I want to go with a Spec 2 because these Novi's where last on a Spec 2 ski ported by the same guy who ported these cases. The jetting should be close or right on.
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