I have a 1999 GTX RFI with 190 hours on it. This weekend it was not running right I have a bit of a bog in the midrange. It starts fine and will run full out just a little sputter when I hit the throtle full. It also is not doing it everytime. So I started by taking the rave valves apart and I have found lots of oil all over the valves. I removed the diaphram on both and there was lots of thick oil in there? I have cleaned all the hoses for the rave valves and blown them out with air I also have cleaned all the other part of the valves. So y am I getting so much oil in my rave valves?
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99 GTX RFI Rave Valves
- Thread starter martyx11
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
They are in the exhaust. Nature of the beast really. BUT, some oils keep them cleaner than others. So the question is... what kind of oil are you running?
The Bombardier XPS synthetic keeps them "Clean"... but it's still a yearly service point. (cleaning the RAVE's)
The Bombardier XPS synthetic keeps them "Clean"... but it's still a yearly service point. (cleaning the RAVE's)
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I'm running Amsoil INTERCEPTOR 2-Cycle OilHigh-performance 2-cycle oil with an emphasis on exhaust power valves. Contains high levels of detergent additives to prevent valve sticking. Replaces manufacturer-branded oils. Injector use or 50:1 premix. Excellent in snowmobiles, motorcycles, PWC, ATVs and jet boats.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Not all the oil burns... so it goes out the exhaust. The RAVE's are the first point in the exhaust, and they get coked. (covered in half cooked oil)
The only oil I've ever run that actually would not cover the power valves is Caster 927.
Synthetic oils help keep the valves from sticking... but the nature of synthetic oils are that they don't break down under normal heat. BUT... when you have +1100 F exhaust temps... they turn into tar. The Metal additives (Zinc Sterates/Phosphate, and sulfur compounds) help keep the RAVE's moving free... but eventually... they need cleaned.
The Pure Caster oils are perfect. They don't break down at the 500 degree range (so they protect the engine) but they vaporize in the exhaust... and you get very little out the tail pipe.
With the exception of my seadoo's... every thing else I own runs on 927. (I don't know if the rotary valve gears will like 927)
The only oil I've ever run that actually would not cover the power valves is Caster 927.
Synthetic oils help keep the valves from sticking... but the nature of synthetic oils are that they don't break down under normal heat. BUT... when you have +1100 F exhaust temps... they turn into tar. The Metal additives (Zinc Sterates/Phosphate, and sulfur compounds) help keep the RAVE's moving free... but eventually... they need cleaned.
The Pure Caster oils are perfect. They don't break down at the 500 degree range (so they protect the engine) but they vaporize in the exhaust... and you get very little out the tail pipe.
With the exception of my seadoo's... every thing else I own runs on 927. (I don't know if the rotary valve gears will like 927)
ThreeD
New Member
Cleaned these out last year on my 3d due to the same bogging that your talking about. If there is too much oil build up in the bellows, the valves won't move freely, which will cause the exhaust to back up if they are closed while your on the throttle, or not get much gettyup if they are stuck open at take off.
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