99 gtx rfi issue

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poindexter

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Hi Folks.. I am beside myself on this one...
I have a 99 gtx rfi... ran great for about 2 hours, with a friend on the back, did not go very fast as the total weight was pretty much close to the limit and while up on plane, started to wander back and forth.. so kept it simple...
got back to shore, dropped off my friend and ran the boat to the trailer... I give it all it had and it felt like top end was starting to bog. so toned it down.. and puttered to the ramp..
As I loaded it onto the trailer, it sounded like it just stopped dead... and would not start.. it did turn over but no kick...

got it home, pulled it apart.. put spark tester on the plugs and both plugs had strong spark...
checked for loose wires or lines but nothing out of the ordinary...
I left it overnight... and went back to it in the morning... without throttle, it did start but ran roughish.... when I pulled the throttle? it started to bog and misfire.. , I let it go and went back to what seemed like limp mode... checked the fuel pressure, was around 54 psi. 3/4 tank fresh gas, oil is topped up... with some original seadoo oil and about 1/2 quart of of synthetic from local marine store, but not seadoo brand.. went for the best one they had... for two stroke pwc...
In case it was carbon related.. I put in seafoam in the injector rail and spayed a load in the air box... no difference... as I can't get it above a bar idle...
I checked the rave valves and the rubber is good and moves well, I could not hear anything like sticking paddle of the valve, it ran smooth...
any idea??? I checked the manual... and it says read the codes and go from their...
not sure about the states.. but there is a 200 minimum and couiple of days notice to allow them the privilege to read the code...
I could use some insite on where to go next... please...
 
Compression check.
What specifically did you use for that oil?

Likely plugged injector caused a lean seizure or the pwc oil is not good enough and failed.
It should read api-tc on the bottle. Also. Different oils can mix and gel up causing a lack of oil flow.
 
update compression check

Mekanix said:
Compression check.
What specifically did you use for that oil?

Likely plugged injector caused a lean seizure or the pwc oil is not good enough and failed.
It should read api-tc on the bottle. Also. Different oils can mix and gel up causing a lack of oil flow.
Click to expand...

the compression is 150 and 149, the oil I used was a premium synthetic blend rated tc-w3.... there are two oil lines and a filter,,, I can see the frilter getting stuck... one oil line goes to the rotary valve and the other looks like a larger line coming off the bottom of the engine.. I assume over flow??? or simply to keep the bottom end lubed...
thank you for getting back to me...
cheers
 
Tc-w3 will destroy that engine :(
And may have already done enough damage.

The small line is for the oil injection pump (8mm)
And the lines that go to the rotary valve cavity and lubes the gears to run the rotary valve. (12mm lines)

You need to remove ALL THE OIL. Replace the oil filter and then look at what else is bad.

Change the injectors. Just do it. $70 each is cheaper than an engine.

Have a look in the cylinders for scorring or a broken/ melted rave valve.
Either pull the head off or use a borescope.

Im going to guess you will find scored cylinder walls.

Or if you remove a rave and move the piston up, you can see if the piston skirt is scorred badly.
 
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I hear ya... how do I remove all the oil .. I can such it out or drop the lines and it drip into a pan... but is there a way to wash it out so to speak???
after seeing how much of the tcw3 oil, I thought it was a quart but it was probably a pint if that... I did not check the level.. just wanted to add it...
as for the injectors... are you saying the fuel injectors to replace??? I am in Canada... the prices are like 3 times more... but do plan to take a trip to buffalo shortly... maybe I can pre-order and pick up...
thanks again
 
Suck what ever you can from the oil tank. Pull the big line off the bottom of the tank and suck as much out of there that you can.
Remove the small line from the tank and take the line off the oil pump, filter and all and replace the filter. Reinstall it all and fill with only yellow jug xps 2.

Princess auto has fluid transfer pumps that will help.

The injectors arent that expensive. But yeah you should replace them.
Many have replaced engines twice only to find out the cause later on.

Try winnercirclecanada. Im in east coast Canada and use them quite often.
 
Im north of toronto in Bradford close to barrie... there is a seadoo dealership there I got parts from before.. I will get the oil tomorrow and I already have the oil removal tool but made up a vaccum pump that I use to remove my engine oil from my boat... that will work like a charm to such everything out.. I assume I don't have to flush??? is it that critical??? obvioiusly it is .. I will drain and let it drip .. and go from there.. I appreciate all your help...
looks like my compression is fair to good.. I did run a bit of seafoam through the cylendars to try and remove any sludge off the rave valves... and through the air box... .. will see what happens...
 
270-600-017 injector p/n

Flushing the injector pump main lines and the tank with brake cleaner would be good but don't wory about the rotary valve cavity big lines. Just get the oil out and connect the lines in the end and fill when the cleaner evaporates.

Engine storage spray from canadian tire is what i use instead of seafoam in the engine. Helps with quite a few things.

149/150 is something id look at. But its not bad.
Did you test it dry or after seafoaming it?

Do you have the service manual?

Winnercircle is probably right near you!
 
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I ran the starter with the plugs out to blow out the seafoam so it was not full of liquid... so it was a dry test.. yes I have a service manual...
I go to St Aung.. or whatever its called in Barrie for parts.....its about 15 minutes away..... will update when its flushed and filled.. I will also check the reading of the 5 sensors.. I have all the info from the manual... Im retired now, but teach electrical and electronics.. so thats a snap.. maybe one sensor is out of whack.. but all this happened after I put the oil in... so will see...
I got the ski about 7 years ago... with a blown engine for 900 bucks... the engine was total trash case.. but sent the engine to the states to a seadoo rebuild shot who also does honda and got the engine basically blue printed for 750 bucks... but at 66 .. I basically go tooting around for short shots or take my son and friends tubing..... so really has maybe 48 hours on it or so...
cheers
Stan
 
Awesome, I'm avionics by trade. This should be pretty easy for you.
The comon faults for that machine are:
Fuel injectors.
In tank fuel pump filter clogging.
Throttle position sensor. Sometimes it's just a matter of resetting the tps.

If you see anything through the raves slots on the piston skirts, you could remove the head and have a look.
There is no head gasket, just orings.
 
how would I reset the tps? do I need a programmer?. it very tight in there to work on most stuff... I need to pull part of the exhaust to get at the forward rave valve and need hands like a child to get the throttle body air box off to get at the tps...
 
You would need a programmer to reset it if needed.
but just unplug the battery and check the sensors from the mpem plug. Should be easy to see if the tps is readinf properly


You have to disassemble the fwd rave to get it out. Just remove the cover and be careful not to lose the spring. Then unscrew the cap that pulls the rave valve and remove the body first and then the rave.
 
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poindexter said:
the compression is 150 and 149, the oil I used was a premium synthetic blend rated tc-w3....
cheers
Click to expand...

With compression in that range I would seriously doubt the engine is damaged. I'd focus on the fuel getting where it needs to go. Good luck with the electronics.
Sure is great to have such help in the community !! Good Stuff !!
 
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Your compression is fine especially being 1 psi difference between the two. Rule of thumb is 150 psi is good.
 
Just got new oil and oil filer. Just for laughs in case ineeded them? I priced out the fuel injectors. 220 per injector, notgoi g to happenhopefully an oil flushwill help and check the sensors. What a way to spend a weekend ☹️
 
Just a quick update. Drained every bit of oil out and refilled. While sucking the oil from top it looks like the new oil ( wrong type) was sitting on top never even injested. Still no change . Next? A beer and then come the diagrams and specs and my trusty fluke meter running rough and smokey looks like it's running rich and more throttle wants to flood it
 
Just want to mention that all this happened suddenly when i was putting the ski onto the trailer, it did pic up some weeds in the process. But i pulled them out , no difference maybe i should look if i picked up some rope that could reflect back to the engine????
 
The engine should still run well even if there is a blockage in the cooling but it would overheat after a while.
The fact that your getting very rich running points towards possibly a stuck injector.
There is something in the manual for testing the injectors.
I believe you can remove the injector rail and test fire them by cranking it over.
Just make sure that you keep the spray controlled and put a few rags or containers in front of them.

Good to know that the oil didnt get a chance to mix in.
 
Thanks, i checked all the sensors and all is well, going to check the injectors in the morning. Was just getting to dark and the only thing left . I was able to unstick an injector in my truck with laquir thiners . Will see what i come up with
Thanks
 
heres whats been going on... all sensors are within spec.. I tried to get the injectors out but both boths are stainless and one has a messed up head, nothing I tried could get in and hold the allan head tight enough to crack it loose.. I tried a torx head to jam it in but its the back side bold and can barely see , let alone try and tap something in there... unless someone has another idea, short of removing the engine....
I removed the fuel line and sprayed seafoam in there, and reinstalled... It fired up and sounded better and when I slowly increased the throttle, it started to pick up speed but could not get it wide open or.. ( did not check the rpm).. looks like I may have to add more seafoam in at the exit of the fuel pump or try something stronger..... I do actually have a tank I made up a while ago with a high pressure pump in it for a project.. so maybe I can use that one to shove something stronger in and run it off my portable tank.. ( just thinking)..... any thoughts?
wow, what a job... need a shower....
cheers
 
Also in my opinion Seafoam isn't the best thing for a two stroke since it is made to clean and remove deposits which is removing all the lubricating oil in a two stroke.
 
after spending time with a number of things trying things out... I brought it outside and ran it for 1/2 hr with seafoam and smoked up the neighborhood...
then I listened... the engine ran rough and then did a walk about... and there was a sound coming the drive itself..
After thinking about the events that lead up to the issue....
I got a bit of weed in the drive, and ran over my trailer guide which is flexible.. but at taht time the engine just stopped dead...
I am thinking now that I should remove the drive to see if anything is catching or even if a bearing is shot.. I did have that before... where the engine slowed down then stopped.. I thought the engine was toast but it was teh bearing that got water in it and seized... stay tuned... just have to pull it apart now would like to do it outside rather than in the garage.. just have to hope for a none rainy day... good thing I am retired.. and have time to play...
 
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