97 Seadoo XP Starts then shuts off

[bigtxp]

Hello all. I own a 97 Seadoo XP and have had it since around 2000. In the recent years, I've put very limited hours on it as I also own a boat. I just took the Ski out for the first time this year yesterday and experience two concerning issues.

Issue #1- The ski was running ok when as soon as I reach the furthest point from the dock it shuts down. When I say shuts down, I mean it completely lost power almost like someone unplugged the + or - from the battery. I then plugged the dess key back in and it started for 20 seconds and did the same thing. The time that it would run got progressively worse until it was down to 3 second spurts. The lanyard wasn't always making an easy connection to the post. At times, I would have to jiggle and play with it for a connection. I haven't really started to diagnose the issue to much, but my initial reaction is either the post or the Dess key. Is this a good place to start? I was planning to clean both with soap and water tonight. I'm not extremely technical, but can figure things out with direction.

Issue #2- I would be suprised if this is directly related to Issue #2, but thought it was worth mentioning. Like I said previously, this ski gets very minimal use over the past several years (if i'm lucky, 2-3 trips to the lake a year). When I bought it in 2000, it had just over 100 hours and I would bet it only has 200-250 now. The issue that I saw yesterday was the ski seemed to be bogging down at times when I was on the throttle. Then it perk up and start moving again. I use fuel stabilizer when I winterize it and put in 3/4 tank of fresh gas before heading out yesterday. My assumption is that it was just some bad gas working it's way through the lines. Would this make sense? I'm sure some are going to ask, so my ski still has the grey gas lines. I plan to replace them, but have pulled them off in several spots including fuel selector switch, the baffle, and around the carb and have not seen any gunk or build up. I also pulled the black box and flame arrestor and the carbs appears to be almost spotless (probably b/c i never use the ski). Are these two issues possibly related? Am i probably accurate in assuming that the bad gas was causing the throttle hesitation and bogging?

I apprecaite any help and guidance you can provide. Please provide detail on your suggestions as I'm not extremely technical.

 

[Strizzo]

check your connections between the post and mpem up in the nose for corrosion. if it doesn't fix anything, then i'd start with replacing the post. they are known to go bad eventually and will randomly shut off when they're going bad, eventually they won't do anything or will stop recognizing the key.

as for the bogging and running, if you run flat out for a bit, does it die off and then come back after you run slow for a bit? sounds like you should move up the schedule for replacing your grey lines and clean out the carbs while you're in there. if you're not comfortable opening the carbs up yourself you can ship them to Dr. Honda and he'll give them a once over for a reasonable fee.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

For cleaning the DESS post and maybe inside the lanyard cap, I think Seadoo suggests using a pencil eraser and no oil or anything like that which might interfere with the electrical contacts or cause the rubber to soften and break down.

 

[bigtxp]

Thanks for the feedback Strizzo. I want to run a few tests tonight with the post/key. My understanding is that I can start the ski and turn water on to the flush line for some testing. Is there a limit to how long I can run the ski when water is connected to the flush line? Do you turn the hose all the way on?

I unfortunatley didn't get to run it for very long, but it appeard to run halfway decent after about 15 minutes of warming up. During the warm up stage, I would punch it and it would respond quickly then start bogging down then come back to life for a quick spurt. After that process, it seemed to to be very responsive to my throttle desires but that was maybe 3-4 mintues before Issue 1 started.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

You should *NOT* run more than a couple minutes on the hose as the Carbon seal isn't getting cooled by the "lake" water.

check your connections on all wires too.

 

[bigtxp]

Thanks! I'll start here and let you know what I find this evening or tomorrow.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

I would check your compression. What you are describing is exactly what my 96 xp did when I ate up a piston. Some of the piston got jammed into the rotary valve which shut the jetski off. Suprizingly it started right back up and ran rough on low end but top end she would run fine. I would say check your compression or just pull off the head and inspect your pistons. I bet your pto(rear) piston is toast due to your grey fuel lines.

 

[bigtxp]

I checked & tightened connections last night, cleaned the lanyard & post, and now the key seems to be making a better connection. I fired it up briefly and it came right to life. Unfortunately, the only way to truly test this it seems is take it to the lake and let it strand me again (which i'm going to attempt possibly tonight or later this week).

With the gray fuel lines, is the sludge and build up noticable? I pulled several lines and didn't see anything and the lines appeared to be in good shape. I removed and cleaned the fuel filter which wasn't dirty in the least bit. I pulled the black box and flame arrestor and the carbs were clean. Like I said, i plan to replace them over the winter months just because everyone else has done it, but should I see some major build up or something?

 

[Bills86e]

Yes, Gas can go bad when it sits not full and without a stabilizer. Definately get used to cleaning your carb and water separator filters. Read my carb "Sticky" in there is how to clean your fuel switch. So checking that separator is something you check each launch. This tells you if you bought or have water in the fuel tank, if ya need to empty and swab it. Besides replaceing the grey fuel lines, replace the pulse line.
Many engines fail because of the unkept fuel delivery maintenance. DESS posts I'd say average going bad in two years, as well as the two small oil lines from the oil pump to the rv cover spigot tubes. Older ski's need the oil pump flow tested bi-annually.

As far as running the ski with a carbone ring goes, Yes they will get hot and warp in two minutes. Keep a spray bottle handy to cool the drive ring with water, when working longer. Grease on the PTO zerk fitting will keep pressure on the ring, not allow water past it, into the boat.

Bills86e

 

[bigtxp]

Bills, is there an easy way to test the oil flow (other than watching the level in the holding tank)? That is something that does concern me greatly.

I also planned to change the oil filter this off season. Do i need to bleed the line? If so, where is the screw for this?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

As far as running the ski with a carbone ring goes, Yes they will get hot and warp in two minutes. Keep a spray bottle handy to cool the drive ring with water, when working longer. Bills86e

Another possible solution some have mentioned, is to relieve the tension by removing the circlip retainer and sliding the stainless ring towards the PTO, temporarily.

 

[Strizzo]

Bills, is there an easy way to test the oil flow (other than watching the level in the holding tank)? That is something that does concern me greatly.

I also planned to change the oil filter this off season. Do i need to bleed the line? If so, where is the screw for this?

no real easy way to test oil flow, other than running the ski at idle and holding the oil pump lever wide open, you should see the exhaust start smoking a good bit.

i would go ahead and change the oil filter, several people here have bought skis with blown motors, and found that the filter has been there so long that nothing will go through it. you can minimize the amount of oil that gets into the feed line by putting the filter on the line and letting it fill up before you attach it to the other end. this can end up making a helluva mess since its kinda tight in there under the hood.

as long as you keep the air bubble from going back down to the pump and watch it go back up into the tank, you should be ok. if you need to bleed the pump, the screw is on the pump just above where the feed hose connects.

you can also check that the marks on the oil pump arm match up with the one on the body when the throttle is at idle while you're fiddling with things in that area.

 

[Bills86e]

The simple proceedure is in your shop manual, useing your drill. Yes, change your oil pump oil filter every 2-3 years. Mixing oils will sludge up into a coagulated gell in your oil pump filter. You get a roasted Engine.

Your manual will pictoralize that bleed screw. Hold the pump lever open (like you are full throttle WOT) with your finger as the engine idles. You should see your oil flow up to the rv cover spigot tubes as a slow pulseing movement. Install new RV oil lines every two years. Tygon 3/32" id (weed-eater fuel line). Yes, after two years, they disintegrate/break become brittle.

Please get yourself a Shop Manual specific to your machines year/model. Read it cover to cover.

 

[bigtxp]

Thanks for all the advice! I cleaned the lanyard & post and tightened connections to the post as well as at the MPEM. I think a combination of those as well as working the bad gas through the system resolved my issue. I took it out yesterday and it ran flawlessly. Looking forward to getting a few more trips out of it before winterization which I plan to replace the gray fuel lines, new oil filter, and replace the jet pump oil.

On a side note, I can't seem to keep the intake grate actually attached to the machine. I've tried lock nuts, loctite, lock nuts with loctite, etc. Any ideas? I also need to buy a new one. Any recommendations on where I can get one for a fair price (OEM or aftermarket)? Do the aftermarket grates really give you more top end? Is it worth the extra $$$?

Thanks again for the help. I'm sure I'll be back with more issues (hopefully not until next year).

 

[Jetskigoodies]

Aftermarket intake grates keep you hooked up in wavy conditions. So in wavy situations you will acheive more top end just due to the pump passing more water through it. It doesnt add hp or anything.