97 GTX no charge on battery

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Travlash

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97 gtx. Grey MPEM box. Battery is staying at 12.6 volts when running and doesn’t move up when hitting throttle. Possibly rectifier ?

My rectifier has one red wire and three yellow. Grounded to the plate. I put the red terminal in my voltemeter in the red wire and the black cable on the metal plate. I’m getting below 10 on that. Is this the correct way to test it?

Also I have already replaced stator this season, next question is could it be just a bad battery. Little black wire is also attached and cleaned.
 
97 gtx. Grey MPEM box. Battery is staying at 12.6 volts when running and doesn’t move up when hitting throttle. Possibly rectifier ? YES, bad rectifier probably

My rectifier has one red wire and three yellow. Grounded to the plate. I put the red terminal in my voltemeter in the red wire and the black cable on the metal plate. I’m getting below 10 on that. Is this the correct way to test it? - That'll do

Also I have already replaced stator this season, next question is could it be just a bad battery. UNLIKELY if the rectifier is not putting out juice....but running the ski will eventually drain down the battery....Little black wire is also attached and cleaned. - CHECK all ground paths too.

Electrical connections = clean, bright, tight and di-electric grease don't hurt.

If the rectifier is good, then you should be seeing 14v+/- OUT of the rectifier (red wire) with the ski running. The 14V should be flowing to the battery through a fuse. If the rectifier is not throwing out 14V (test the RED wire out of the rectifier through a meter to ground...then the rectifier is KAPUT....pretty common failure part).

The rectifier converts AC voltage from the stator to DC voltage for the ski (the DC voltage trickle charges the battery and supplies voltage for the ski (guages while running))....the battery supplies voltage to the igntion coil for spark so the ski needs to keep the battery replenished so the battery voltage will be there to initially kick the starter over and to supply the juice to the ignition coil. The ignition coil spins up the battery voltage to the spark plugs.

You can test your yellow stator wires too....label them 1,2,3....test between pairs of yellow (1-2, 1-3, 2-3)...you should get .6 ohm resistance between each pair and they should all be the same/very close.....that'll tell if the stator is ok.
 
Electrical connections = clean, bright, tight and di-electric grease don't hurt.

If the rectifier is good, then you should be seeing 14v+/- OUT of the rectifier (red wire) with the ski running. The 14V should be flowing to the battery through a fuse. If the rectifier is not throwing out 14V (test the RED wire out of the rectifier through a meter to ground...then the rectifier is KAPUT....pretty common failure part).

The rectifier converts AC voltage from the stator to DC voltage for the ski (the DC voltage trickle charges the battery and supplies voltage for the ski (guages while running))....the battery supplies voltage to the igntion coil for spark so the ski needs to keep the battery replenished so the battery voltage will be there to initially kick the starter over and to supply the juice to the ignition coil. The ignition coil spins up the battery voltage to the spark plugs.

You can test your yellow stator wires too....label them 1,2,3....test between pairs of yellow (1-2, 1-3, 2-3)...you should get .6 ohm resistance between each pair and they should all be the same/very close.....that'll tell if the stator is ok.
I just wired in a new rectifier. Previous owner cut the connections off the harness except for one yellow and one red. So i plugged those in. The other two yellow had no marks to distinguish the difference between the two. So i wired it together. Does the yellow wires matter what yellow wire they connect to?
 
I need help. 97 seadoo gtx 787



Let me first start off by saying so far, i have replaced the stator, the rectifier, the battery, spark plugs. I’ve also cut back the spark wires. Carbs were rebuilt and set to factory. It’s getting fuel. It has spark.



. When i put voltemeter on the battery while running. It stays at 12.6 and doesn’t go up. (Not charging). The rectifier came with one red wire and 3 yellows. None of the yellows were labeled or different on the rectifier or the harness. So i plugged in the red and one yellow. The other two i had to wire together. (Does it matter what yellow wire goes the other yellow wires)



It runs great out of water in a hose. However, Im having a hard start in the water. Once i get it started, it runs but says 12v low (brand new battery) then after a few seconds that goes away. Then it runs, what seems to be fine, but a little less power than what it should be. After a couple of minutes it just shuts right off, dead in the water and refuses to start. Pull it out of the water and it won’t start (low battery) but also sounds like one cylinder. So i swap the plugs out. Starts up, same issue in water.

Also before i changed the battery and rectifier it was running fine for 30 minutes with it unplugged until the battery got weak. Then it would shut off randomly, after a couple minutes it would start again. Bad coil?

Any insight on this electrical issue would be appreciated.
 
I just wired in a new rectifier. Previous owner cut the connections off the harness except for one yellow and one red. So i plugged those in. The other two yellow had no marks to distinguish the difference between the two. So i wired it together. Does the yellow wires matter what yellow wire they connect to?
I do not believe the yellow wires matter as far as which stator wire goes to which rectifier wire (yellow to yellow).

Although the rectifiers I've ever purchased ['96 GTX] always seemed to have 2 yellow with male bullet end connections (which you could switch since there is no indicator as to which one goes where) and one yellow with a female end bullet connection.....which mated with my stator wires....but that really doesn't say too much as wires are wires.....

Looking at a wiring diagram, the stator is simply throwing out AC voltage on 3 legs (3 yellows), so how the heck would a receiving device (the rectifier) know or care about which leg (wire from stator) is connected to which leg (wire on the rectifier), as long as AC voltage is coming in on all 3 legs.
 
WHY did you start a new thread about the same issue being discussed in the previous thread?

Your issue is either a bad stator (not putting out AC voltage) OR a bad rectifier (converting the AC to DC). You could also have wire continuity issues as well.....

You need the 3 yellows connected from the stator to the rectifier. The RED wire out of the rectifier should have 14V coming OUT of it with the ski running.

If the stator/rectifier is not producing power for the ski (while running) and the ski is running....you are draining the battery......battery is providing juice to the ignition coil for the spark (until the battery gets too weak to continue).

READ the answers in the previous thread about the wiring connections.....3 yellows from the stator need to be connected to the 3 yellows of the rectifier.
 
WHY did you start a new thread about the same issue being discussed in the previous thread?

Your issue is either a bad stator (not putting out AC voltage) OR a bad rectifier (converting the AC to DC). You could also have wire continuity issues as well.....

You need the 3 yellows connected from the stator to the rectifier. The RED wire out of the rectifier should have 14V coming OUT of it with the ski running.

If the stator/rectifier is not producing power for the ski (while running) and the ski is running....you are draining the battery......battery is providing juice to the ignition coil for the spark (until the battery gets too weak to continue).

READ the answers in the previous thread about the wiring connections.....3 yellows from the stator need to be connected to the 3 yellows of the rectifier.
So i did a battery draw test. I’m getting 25.7 amps drawing on the battery with the key in. Would this be enough to off set the charge. Where should i start looking for the draw
 
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