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97 GTI dies after full throttle

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Prosideus

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I had the ski out the week before and it did fine. The next weekend it started fine and idled out of the no wake just fine and throttled up quickly to speed, then died. I could restart and it would idle fine with a few quick revs of the throttle, could take off and then it would die again up on plane.

Any thoughts?
 
DESS post could be going bad. Could be a lose or corroded ground or other electrical problems. Could also be heat seizing from a lean condition in the fuel/air ratio. You could look at the Spark plugs to see how dark they are. Chalky is bad. You could find the thread on here for testing the lanyard and post. Then you could start hunting down other electrical issues.
 
If you ride hard and bang something around repeatedly, things wiggle, wires flex, existing corrosion flakes off. Anything is possible in a wet environment. Mine ran fine for 2-3 weeks after cleaning up the fuel system, and started cutting out and dying on me. I thought it was the carbs again but the plug on top of the black box by the battery looked as normal as every other plug in there. After taking it apart I found very rotten wires at the soldered wire connections within the plug. My key stopped working and I found very corroded ground wires inside that same box.

I'm saying these are some causes I've seen for what you have described. The heat seizing is a long shot and hopefully not the case but looking at the plugs is easy and could provide some peace of mind. You could also feel the engine and big pipe when it happens for additional peace of mind. They should be hot but not so hot you get burned. You should be able to stand touching it though. If your beeper works when placing the key on, it should warn you of overheating that way. Test the post first following the article on here somewhere. It too goes bad pretty unexpectedly if no other symptoms occur when this is happening.
 
If it does s WOT stop riding it! Chances are it is running out of fuel and this lean running will destroy the engine.
 
Update. Found the problem. The line attached to the Filter right adjacent to the oil fill opening was cracked at the inlet, so cut off about and inch of the hose and reattached. Solved the problem. So air was getting into the system causing the issue. Thanks to everyone for the ideas to track down.
 
If you are talking about the oil filter. You will won't to bleed the system or run premix for the next tank until air gets out of system. Not enough oil means some damage may have already been done to engine.
 
Here is a pic

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Get rid of it. Just another place fur she to be introduced. Your baffle has the same type mesh screen as that one, let alone, your carb/s have filters too
 
I disagree that strainer catches a lot of crap and is your only water separator if you get water or condensation in the tank. Either replace the entire unit with a new one for $22 or clean the element and replace the special o-ring for $6.
 
DO NOT REMOVE THE FACTORY FILTER. Just replace it with the same thing, they're cheap.

It's a filter/separator. It's the second line of defense. I've seen several filters pop off the baffle making it the first line of defense before your carbs.
 
It's the first thing in the way of not running...case in point, this very situation.. Let alone, explain to me how a bucket with a strainer of a micron reading of probably >100, sepersted water from gas. Lastly, worth new fyel lines, what's there to deliver trash in the system?...to each their own
 
Ok, "filter" being second in line to leave you stranded on water. Selector switch pulling air being the first...if gas gauge not reading, and you always leave switch on "res", then what's the difference of eliminating the 2 known problems and going straight from tank to carb...
 
The screen is not what prevents the water from passing. Gravity is. Water settles to bottom. Fuel outlet is at top. Small it is but we are talking about condensation and such from tank. Dump it often. I've never had a problem with the factory separator/filter. The only problem I've ever heard with them is the o-ring and that's usually because someone lost it.
 
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Yes as JJ said the outlet is on top so the water stays in the bottom. Also I have seen a lot of skis with the baffle filter not attached in the tank and the strainer does catch a lot of crap. So if you want all of that in the tiny carb filters be my guest. Now for testing purposes you can bypass all of them to find a problem but I would never recommend eliminating the strainer or selector permanently.
 
$6 in-line fuel filter from Walmart, something with a G on it I think will catch everything but the water. But where I live, about the only way to start having water problems is from riding in cold weather where it gets warm in the day but fairly cool at night. I don't tend to do that. Do the 4-tecs even have one?
 
If I remember my 2007 GTX STD 4 Tec has a permanent fuel filter, nothing to replace. Regardless I always pre filter the gas when filling it.
 
The Fram filter will plug completely with any water and some have had it restrict flow. Honestly the only thing needed is the stock strainer. They last 20 years and do a great job. Don't overthink it.
 
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