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97 GSX advice

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Chills

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I have decided to expand my search from a 99 spx to include a 97 gsx if the price is right. I came across one the other day that is not running. I am still learning about the in's and out's of seadoo's and thanks to this site, it has made my life easier.
I asked the guy what was wrong with it and here is his response.

1997 GSX
787 motor
124.5 hours (is this good for the year? Does it warrant a full rebuild on engine?)
this one starts and runs but blows alot of smoke and bogs out..so needs some attention. may be carbs because it was running fine all last season then started smoking and fouling plugs.thats all i know-i dont know what it needs to repair it. it will sometimes come out of it and start running normally and then will go back to this bogging condition. this is an awesome ski when it was running normally.but its seen some fun times over the years and has somebattle scars etc.with a bit of TLC it could be a great machine again.

Does this sound like a carb rebuild? or fuel line problem? or am i way off? I asked what the compression was but he had no idea. This has potential to be my first ski and i am not afraid to do some work to it, just not sure if i am up for an engine rebuild.

Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.
 
Its a little hard to give advise if it is worth buying without knowing the price.

As far as the engine 300 hours is not uncommon if it is looked after. If it has not been maintain I am gonna guess that the bogging and smoke is a fuel delivery problem, possibly the rave valves need a cleaning.

My suggestion would be to check the compression first. That will at least give an indication of the health of the top end.

Either way, for a non running ski in good condition you should not pay more then $1000. If it needs a rebuild, fuel lines, carbs rebuilt, rave valve kit, oil lines etc you will be into it for $2500-$3000, which in your area is what it is worth in good shape.
 
Smoke usually indicates oil in the exhuast. Could be the rv seal has gone bad and the cases are filling with oil that would also cause a hard start. Also it could be the crank seals which would give you the same symptoms. This would also cause the plugs to foul

As for the color scheme for that model, I love it. I have no idea what to say for a price Canada is way different than my area.


One last thing with any gs body style(gs gsi gsx) check the sponsons out, they tend to break and if they are broken, those will run $80 a set and they are a pain to take off and put back on. Of the last 4 we have had the gsi had one break a golfball size chunk, the next gsx broke half of one off, the next 2 96 gsx's had both sponson broken when we bought them
 
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Its a little hard to give advise if it is worth buying without knowing the price.

As far as the engine 300 hours is not uncommon if it is looked after. If it has not been maintain I am gonna guess that the bogging and smoke is a fuel delivery problem, possibly the rave valves need a cleaning.

My suggestion would be to check the compression first. That will at least give an indication of the health of the top end.

Either way, for a non running ski in good condition you should not pay more then $1000. If it needs a rebuild, fuel lines, carbs rebuilt, rave valve kit, oil lines etc you will be into it for $2500-$3000, which in your area is what it is worth in good shape.

Sorry I forgot to mention the price. I'm looking to get it for $1000 or less. Will I get an accurate reading on compression even though it is winterized? Or does that not matter?
 
It will usually read a bit higher cause the oil in the cylinders will create a better seal around the rings.
 
Just a fyi

The seal I am talking about will require you to pull the motor out, completely disassemble the motor, then you will need to pull the rv gear out of the cases.

The seal I am talking about is the black seal to the right

406.jpg


It will also need to be taken apart
Sorry the picture is blurry
218.jpg


To take the motor apart certain tools are required.

Flywheel puller $30
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-PWC..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item1e71e3cf58&vxp=mtr
It looks like this
407.jpg


Since you are going to have to put it back togethor you will need a torque wrench, new gaskets, needle bearings and a manual is going to be a must.

Not trying to scare you off because this will be a cheap fix if the rest of the motor is in good shape, but alot of hours tearing it down and putting it back togethor.
 
Smoke usually indicates oil in the exhuast. Could be the rv seal has gone bad and the cases are filling with oil that would also cause a hard start. Also it could be the crank seals which would give you the same symptoms. This would also cause the plugs to foul
Is this something a novice could fix? Is it expensive to do?

As for the color scheme for that model, I love it. I have no idea what to say for a price Canada is way different than my area.

I love the color scheme also!
One last thing with any gs body style(gs gsi gsx) check the sponsons out, they tend to break and if they are broken, those will run $80 a set and they are a pain to take off and put back on. Of the last 4 we have had the gsi had one break a golfball size chunk, the next gsx broke half of one off, the next 2 96 gsx's had both sponson broken when we bought them

I will take a look. Thanks
 
Just a fyi

The seal I am talking about will require you to pull the motor out, completely disassemble the motor, then you will need to pull the rv gear out of the cases.

The seal I am talking about is the black seal to the right

406.jpg


It will also need to be taken apart
Sorry the picture is blurry
218.jpg


To take the motor apart certain tools are required.

Flywheel puller $30
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-PWC..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item1e71e3cf58&vxp=mtr
It looks like this
407.jpg


Since you are going to have to put it back togethor you will need a torque wrench, new gaskets, needle bearings and a manual is going to be a must.

Not trying to scare you off because this will be a cheap fix if the rest of the motor is in good shape, but alot of hours tearing it down and putting it back togethor.

Thanks for the info. How can I tell the seal needs replaced?
 
JSG is it the plastic that brittle or weak? Or something to do with how they are installed. As you know I have a few from the GS family here but they all seem fine.
 
If there is alot of oil in the cases. If it is hard to get to turn over,or the compression is high. There has to be a reason for all the smoke and plugs fouling out. Take out the spark plugs and turn it over, make sure you put rags over the holes. If a ton of oil comes out then there is alot of oil in the cases and that seal is most likely the culprit. Then you can use all of this info to knock the price down.
 
JSG is it the plastic that brittle or weak? Or something to do with how they are installed. As you know I have a few from the GS family here but they all seem fine.

I think it is just the plastic weakens. They are pretty much hollow, the gtx has a filler support peice to fill in the hollow areas.

This picture is of gtx sponson with the filler pieces, just a quick pic grabbed from ebay

408.jpg


The gsx doesnt have those so I think over time just the stress on the plastic makes them crack then once a crack is present the pressure from the water rips them right off
 
Here is a better pic of what the inside of the sponson looks like, you can see one filler piece is in and then you can see in the next space where another filler piece would go, you can see the 3 grooves where another piece would sit

409.jpg



It seems this doesnt happen to the x4 sponsons because they are much smaller and the gaps are not as larger so they are stronger.
 
I'm selling my 97 GSX, but I'm in Ohio. Comes with a single place trailer too. PM me if you'd be interested. it's of course on the right.
2.png
 
I custom ordered them from a guy who does all different kinds for snowmobiles and skis. I chose a custom color and design and he made them up. I spent over $400 on them. I will need to dig out his info and I can post. I get compliments every time I take the ski out. The depth and quality of the graphics are insane.
 
I custom ordered them from a guy who does all different kinds for snowmobiles and skis. I chose a custom color and design and he made them up. I spent over $400 on them. I will need to dig out his info and I can post. I get compliments every time I take the ski out. The depth and quality of the graphics are insane.
Do you have the design info or digital download, I would love to have a local graphic guy print some out.
 
I want to let everyone know...you can remove and install a RV shaft in the motor withOUT disassembling the engine.


The BUT part of this is when you have a stripped brass gear. You have to disassemble those b/c you have to get all the brass shards out.
 
Just a fyi

The seal I am talking about will require you to pull the motor out, completely disassemble the motor, then you will need to pull the rv gear out of the cases.

The seal I am talking about is the black seal to the right

406.jpg


It will also need to be taken apart
Sorry the picture is blurry
218.jpg


To take the motor apart certain tools are required.

Flywheel puller $30
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-PWC..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item1e71e3cf58&vxp=mtr
It looks like this
407.jpg


Since you are going to have to put it back togethor you will need a torque wrench, new gaskets, needle bearings and a manual is going to be a must.

Not trying to scare you off because this will be a cheap fix if the rest of the motor is in good shape, but alot of hours tearing it down and putting it back togethor.

You are scaring me lol but I am always up for a good challenge! Time is not a problem i have plenty in the summer. I really appreciate the feedback and the list of tools to do the job!!
 
Don't forget the alignment tool, just bought one today. $150 plus shipping.

That is one of the problems, I dont have the tools right now to do the job, I am in the process of acquiring what is needed but whenever i have money for them something else comes up and funds need to be allocated else where.
Worst of all I may have have to pay the Gov this year!!
 
You are scaring me lol but I am always up for a good challenge! Time is not a problem i have plenty in the summer. I really appreciate the feedback and the list of tools to do the job!!

You want to be using that time riding it, not working on it. What else would we do in the winter? Get it soon and fix it before the riding season.
 
I want to let everyone know...you can remove and install a RV shaft in the motor withOUT disassembling the engine.


The BUT part of this is when you have a stripped brass gear. You have to disassemble those b/c you have to get all the brass shards out.

We have only pulled them apart before while the motor was apart, I did not even think of just removing the air box flame arrestor,carbs, then the rv cover, then just pulling the c clip and using our home made puller to pull it out. We always have the motor completely apart to inspect everything anyway. Good thing I never just had to replace just a seal, I would have wasted tons of time. We do however change out every rv seal just in case the seal is on its last leg. Thanks Nick
 
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If it is indeed the RV, that is causing the problems, is it possible that there would be other issues soon to come? I would imagine that the RV is leaking because of worn parts due to lack of, or proper lubrication which makes me think there would be excessive bearing and piston wear as well.

Or does the RV leak for other unrelated issues?

I am just thinking that if money is tight and tools are not readily available this might not be the ski for you. Maybe find something that you can buy and run in the spring when it can also be test driven and hope you can get the summer out of it.

Its a tough call, cause you never "really" know what you got until you get it home and start pulling it apart.
 
If it is indeed the RV, that is causing the problems, is it possible that there would be other issues soon to come? I would imagine that the RV is leaking because of worn parts due to lack of, or proper lubrication which makes me think there would be excessive bearing and piston wear as well.

Or does the RV leak for other unrelated issues?

I am just thinking that if money is tight and tools are not readily available this might not be the ski for you. Maybe find something that you can buy and run in the spring when it can also be test driven and hope you can get the summer out of it.

Its a tough call, cause you never "really" know what you got until you get it home and start pulling it apart.

Just got an email back from the guy he said $800 (does not come with trailer) probably would take $600 if offered i would hope.

I was thinking the same thing kicker about possible piston damage. I have not seen pics of the inside, if the RV is leaking or crank seal is shot, than there would be oil inside correct?

JSG when I pull the spark plug and place a rag over top do i do this one at a time? or pull both? (sorry i am a novice)
I am hoping to go this weekend to look at it. When is it recommended to do a engine rebuild on 787 below 130 on each? I know if one is 20% different from the other it warrants a rebuild.

$600 wouldn't be to bad eh?
 
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