Well after a week of frustration rebuilding one set of carbs on my boat I now have them ready for the water. Here is what I learn about them.
1997 Challenger 1800
If you have a shop manual, you can rip out half of the chapter that covers carb cleaning and testing. The carb the manual refers to is not the carb that we have on our boats at least not the MAG carb.
For starters our MAG side carb whish has the fuel pump on it has a total of four nipples or plugs for fuel lines. The one on the book has only three of them Pulse, Fuel In and Fuel out. Our carbs have Pulse, Fuel In and 2 Fuel Out nipples and to make matters worst one of the fuel out nipples is marked as and inlet on the pump cover. This might be old news to a veteran but I was new at it. Therefore, when testing for leaks or pop off you will need to cover both fuel outlets and connect the gauge on the inlet whish is on the other side of the pump. See pic.
Fuel Pump Check Valve. These ones are a B… to install. I was told if they look good don’t even touch them. Look for damage on the clear plastic disk and that it mounts flush with the pump body. If it looks god let it bee.
When appalling pressure to the carb for testing make sure all screws are tight. I made the mistake of not having the pump side of the carb tight enough and when I started pumping air in it blew out the pump Diaphragm. After it happened, the Diaphragm had a mark on of the sides so I deiced to change it. These things come in a set so I had to by another set from a Seadoo dealer here $57 just to get a new Diaphragm. Fortunately, I still have to do the other engine so I will use the rest of the kit.
The rebuild kit I got came with new Stainless Hex Cap Screws to replace the original slotted screws that strip all the time. I highly recommend it.
Get a pop off gauge.
1997 Challenger 1800
If you have a shop manual, you can rip out half of the chapter that covers carb cleaning and testing. The carb the manual refers to is not the carb that we have on our boats at least not the MAG carb.
For starters our MAG side carb whish has the fuel pump on it has a total of four nipples or plugs for fuel lines. The one on the book has only three of them Pulse, Fuel In and Fuel out. Our carbs have Pulse, Fuel In and 2 Fuel Out nipples and to make matters worst one of the fuel out nipples is marked as and inlet on the pump cover. This might be old news to a veteran but I was new at it. Therefore, when testing for leaks or pop off you will need to cover both fuel outlets and connect the gauge on the inlet whish is on the other side of the pump. See pic.
Fuel Pump Check Valve. These ones are a B… to install. I was told if they look good don’t even touch them. Look for damage on the clear plastic disk and that it mounts flush with the pump body. If it looks god let it bee.
When appalling pressure to the carb for testing make sure all screws are tight. I made the mistake of not having the pump side of the carb tight enough and when I started pumping air in it blew out the pump Diaphragm. After it happened, the Diaphragm had a mark on of the sides so I deiced to change it. These things come in a set so I had to by another set from a Seadoo dealer here $57 just to get a new Diaphragm. Fortunately, I still have to do the other engine so I will use the rest of the kit.
The rebuild kit I got came with new Stainless Hex Cap Screws to replace the original slotted screws that strip all the time. I highly recommend it.
Get a pop off gauge.