96' XP will not hot start condition

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-Finally got this 168mb video uploaded to youtube. This is after 1 minute of running on the hose to get engine up to temps and simulate a warm start. I can imagine it drips quicker when its at lake, engine has been run harder, seat is on, storage bin closed and fuel tank is warmer from ambient temps.

This vid was taken in perfect environment, late evening not so hot out, seat off, storage bin out and hood propped open, flame arrestor assembly off etc.

-Anyone think the rear PTO carb looks a bit wet too? It wasn't dripping.

-Is there anything else that could push fuel past needle and seat other than fuel tank pressure? ( as mentioned earlier fuel tank valves were checked Tuesday evening, and were working to factory spec, tank isn't under any excessive psi and gas cap has never attempted to blow off like tank is under psi when I remove it at lake during diagnosis ) Like anything? Remember I am running fuel line straight out of reserve nipple on sender. No fuel selector or water separator just an inline fuel filter.


[video]https://youtu.be/ejEwybwFVhU[/video]
 
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If there is no pressure in the fuel tank and your return line is clear and plumbed correctly there is nothing else to make them leak other than bad needle and seats or diaphragm.

If they are leaking even with the ski off then they would leak with just air pressure like on the leakdown test.
 
Maybe it was just me but when you cranked the air pressure up on the end of the last video I never heard it "pop", just seemed to kinda leak out. Idk maybe I'm crazy
 
What if it's leaking around the seat when the carb gets hot? Have that issue on sled carbs that run o ringed seats. The o ring leaks by.
 
Maybe it was just me but when you cranked the air pressure up on the end of the last video I never heard it "pop", just seemed to kinda leak out. Idk maybe I'm crazy

There wasn't any wd40 or fuel lubricating seat and I had done it 5-6 times. But it does pop when wet
 
I put carbs back on last night and got it warm on hose.

Levers are a few mm down from metering chamber floor and we have no more fuel droplets with engine off and no fuel dribbling at idle ( never has been any but still wanted to note )

If I had the levers anywhere near what manual says of flush or 1mm +/- the diaphragms clearly were pushing on levers and holding needles off seat.

Headed to lake to see how it does in water today

Brappp

https://youtu.be/kpSOPjxlyl0


My voice sounds weird lol, this is taken after getting it warm and turning hose off then engine off to monitor carbs and see if fuel droplets issue has been fixed.

https://youtu.be/v0zfLwpcYJY
 
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I would like to know also.... When I rebuilt my carbs with genuine Mikuni parts I got the needle lever FLUSH with carb body like it says in MANUAL. BUTTTT.... My ski just started doin this and has been ok for three years. Also last time out engine flooded with salt water on a tow.
 
Well it appears we have more than one problem. After fixing the fuel dripping it will idle fine all day long.

I tried to start it after it had been sitting for 15 minutes and it did the same thing still very hard to start. I yanked it out of the water found a shady spot in the parking lot and pulled the plugs. Engine had spark for five rotations of the engine then it went away.

I've checked it multiple times in the past when everything is warm but something is failing when warm.

I came home and checked again, I have spark back. Must be cdi or coil. I swapped cdi and will test today.

I have a feeling it's the coil though :-/

I did find a MT REV box for water injection in my front gray box though ! Ha
 
I see what you mean. Looks like this XP is keeping you busy like mine has. I don't think that your fix is going to be easy as mine (he says after a week without finding the problem).
 
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UPDATE:

Well the coil swap didn't fix it during saturdays ride with [MENTION=59515]suke[/MENTION] and [MENTION=32110]IDoSeaDoo[/MENTION] at jordan lake. Plus left rear motor mount broke, diagnosed that as I felt the pipe smacking the inside of the hull near my left foot lol.

Was a fun ride though ski runs so good on high speed circuit ( 1/3 throttle or higher )

This ski is never ending.

So Saturday evening found a pin pushed out of the 4 pin connector that comes out of front gray ebox and connects to intermediate harness that connects to rear black ebox. Cleaned connector and resecured pin.

That didn't fix anything lol. GREATTT!!!

Replaced intermediate harness and rear ebox harness. Now we have spark 24/7. High resistance found in harness doing ohm tests with harness isolated from ski electronics. ( unplugged )


Rode all day Sunday, was cooler out and had been raining so not the same humid hot conditions this ski has problems with. I let it sit for 10 mins after running it around. It started right up with a little bit of throttle application.

Later on went back to main dock and it sat for 15 mins. Wouldn't hot start ugh.

Its still mind boggling. Pulled seat, verified spark with extra spark plug.

verified spark, Check!

Not excessive but some fuel fumes, clearly coming from carbs when pulling seat initially after getting back to dock with hot no start condition.
So we are back to fuel lol.

I got it running and went and beat the crap out of it, ran real good. So per my original video I made in this thread showing the droplets of fuel coming out of high speed circuit on MAG carb with engine warm due to needle being raised off seat because of lever adjustment fuel cant be being pushed into carb throats while engine is warm and off through high speed circuit. Guess somehow it could be coming into carbs via low speed holes in carb throat. There was some wetness but not excessive when taking flame arrestor off. YOu can hear me mentioning that in one of the videos, and see it on the PTO carb that wasnt dripping from High speed outlet.

Oh well.
 
Geez. Time for those brand new carbs. Talking to [MENTION=52309]MPower[/MENTION] my "starter" issue is prolly just needing to replace my battery. I do believe it's as old as my resto.
 
I swapped out my carbs for a fresh rebuilt set it have off my other 95 xp 800. It is 90% better. I have the ls setting @1.5 turns out. Going to bring it down a tad it's still a little rich on idle . I also trimmed the plug wires and reinstalled the boots.
 
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