96' XP taking on hot water

[get_real]

Haven't posted for awhile or started my XP for 3-4 years due to various life stuff. However got the bug recently so cleaned it up and got it running a couple of of days ago. Took if for a spin in Lake Allatoona today and after a little stumbling it ran great. However pulled up on shore after 20-30 minutes and took the seat off, engine was about flooded with very hot water, water almost up to the top of the battery. Was able to drain some out then drove it straight back to the ramp and took it out. I did start it up with the seat off while in the water and didn't see any water leaking from any of the hoses. Any ideas on what may be wrong or how I can diagnose it?

 

[noviceskier]

Haven't posted for awhile or started my XP for 3-4 years due to various life stuff. However got the bug recently so cleaned it up and got it running a couple of of days ago. Took if for a spin in Lake Allatoona today and after a little stumbling it ran great. However pulled up on shore after 20-30 minutes and took the seat off, engine was about flooded with very hot water, water almost up to the top of the battery. Was able to drain some out then drove it straight back to the ramp and took it out. I did start it up with the seat off while in the water and didn't see any water leaking from any of the hoses. Any ideas on what may be wrong or how I can diagnose it?

well if the water is hot its probably an exhaust leak check there first

 

[POPPS]

Hook up the garden hose, and check for obvious leaks, check the frost plug below the pipe, Check at the exhaust head pipe, take your hand and feel for a weak spot or a hole on the under side of the exhaust coupler, check for a leak at the manifold, That hot water is coming out of the-engine...and not the lake.

 

[get_real]

You were both correct, exhaust leak. Looks like the bottom frost seal on what I think is the tuned pipe has failed. I’m assuming I’ll have to remove the pipe to have it repaired? Does it have to be welded??

 

[get_real]

Here’s the leak.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes and @racerxxx sells the machined plugs.

 

[racerxxx]

I have them on hand ready to ship. $5 each $7 to ship priority mail(the only way I'll ship). They can be in the mail tomorrow morning. Shoot me a pm if you're interested. PayPal works best.

Seadoo 720/787 Welch plugs, Exhaust plug/cap or whatever you want to call them.......

 

[get_real]

Thanks; just sent you my info.

 

[get_real]

 

[POPPS]

After your repair, and before you install the pipe, pull out that front electrical plug, and check for corrosion, it has had a lot of water sprayed on it, use a mirror to see the pins in the female end, and take a small screw driver and pop the orange cover off the male side, it is not uncommon for corrosion to hide in there. If you need more room to work on the male side of the plug, just remove your gray electrical box from its securing clip. And of course put a nice coating of dielectric grease on your connections.

 

[get_real]

Thanks for the advice, will do that tomorrow.

 

[get_real]

One more quick question, if the one plug failed should I replace any of the other ones while it’s at the welder or just wait for them to fail??

 

[noviceskier]

One more quick question, if the one plug failed should I replace any of the other ones while it’s at the welder or just wait for them to fail??

just inspect the others to see.

 

[Soulcker]

I just used a metal epoxy putty to fill the holes. Worked great! $7 for a small tube

 

[get_real]

I thought about using some type of epoxy like JB weld, but now that I've got it out and bought some aluminum plugs from racerxxx will just inspect all four and replace either all four or just the bottom two. Will post after the repair!

 

[mikidymac]

It's typically just the bottom 2 that corrode.

 

[get_real]

Finally got my pipe welded & painted today. I ended up replacing all four plugs I got from @racerxxx. My welder had experience with this repair and after looking at the pipe recommended doing all four. Cost $15 per plug. He told me he would of supplied the plugs for free, but uses a much thinner plug. The thicker plugs from @racerxxx should last a lifetime! I couldn’t find the exact Sea-Doo purple and settled for some Rust-Oleum Grape. Now just need to find some high temp rtv for the install.

 

[racerxxx]

Looks great. The plugs I make are actually a few thousandths thicker that what was originally on there. You should be good for at least another 20 years or more. Color looks pretty close. Only thing I do is I paint the flange a little where it meets the manifold. Otherwise the water will corrode and leech under the paint. But I have been able to combat that by just letting the over spray get on there. But I ride in salt and fresh water.

 

[mikidymac]

The only thing that gets sealant is the copper ring with Ultra Copper RTV.

 

[get_real]

Got her back together and no leaks during the initial test. Will take it to the lake for a better test. One issue I have is the double beep when putting the key on has stopped. Runs fine but curious why that stopped. Could it be the connector I cleaned below the pipe??

 

[mikidymac]

The beepers go bad all the time. Replace it with a new one. You can get them directly from Floyd Bell.

 

[get_real]

The beeper started working again, but after a 5 min cruise in the lake brought it back to shore and now it won’t start, sounds like the starter is spinning but no solenoid is engaging! Really upsetting as had the whole family with me! But on the good side no water leak!

 

[POPPS]

The starter will not spin if the selenoid is not connecting.

 

[get_real]

Read a few posts, I should have said I suspect it’s the bendix not engaging, not the solenoid. I’ve never pulled a sea doo starter before, in fact I can’t even see it. Where is it located and do I have to remove anything to get access to it?

 

[POPPS]

It's located at the right front, bottom, of the motor, at the stator cover. For better access, remove the air box first, it will be worth your while. There are 2 Allen bolts,(6 mm I believe). The bottom left one is the challenge. I have a special round head 6 mm Allen extended socket just for that bolt. Also, there is a bracket that holds the starter that is located aft of the positive terminal, and under the motor. It normally is a 13 mm bolt. Remove it last, it holds the starter for you as you remove the 2 front Allen bolts. And of course, instal that bracket bolt first so it helps hold the starter for you. Just have that bolt loose, then after you have tightened the 2 front allens, then secure the 13 mm bracket bolt.

Of course. Remove the ground cable at the battery first and the positive at the starter, which is a 10 mm nylock nut. The right side Allen bolt usually holds the ground cable that goes to the battery, there will be a 13 mm nut holding that cable.