96 xp driving me nuts! help please!

[roy4481]

ok I am new here and any help would be appreciated.
I have a 96 xp that is having a stall issue. I first got this from my father inlaw that has had zero problems out of it and ran it fine last year. I tried to ride it and it was stalling when I would give it throttle in water, but would idle and run fine when out of the water. I read on this forum to replace the fuel lines, clean carbs, clean selector valve, replace plugs and check compression. i done all of that and I still have the problem. i have a cheap compression tester and it is reading 90psi on both cylinders. so I think its just a cheap tester and not a issue? I can get the ski to run on the water now after all of the repairs but to throttle up I have to choke it a bit to get going then its fine. it will also idle fine when on the water. but if I go to full throttle it stalls a bit. if I only hold it at 3/4 throttle it runs fine at 45mph. ? sorry if I posted this in the wrong section but im totally at a loss here....
thanks for your help in advance...:thumbsup:

 

[brock1]

you need to check the exact compression with another tester 90 will make it do exactly what you are describing so check it and if its actually 90 then there is your problem.....

 

[riding high]

brock1 gave you some great advice. if I were you I would beg, borrow, or buy a good tester and read that compression. You would like to see something in the 150 range, but will run on less. Once you drop below the 120's the engine is starting to get really sick and it won't be long before you will be tearing it down. Note this is just my opinion, others may have differing views.atriot:

 

[roy4481]

I tested it again and I think I had a bad seal on my tester. I got 110 on both this time. exactly the same on each cylinder. Do I need to replace just the head gasket or the entire top end? since it is not my machine I dont want to throw alot of cash into it.

 

[brock1]

its time for a top end you can order a full top end rebuild for around 250.00 - 300.00 bucks.. it will be alot better than just re ringing it and it will last you a long time....

 

[roy4481]

ok, thanks. any advice on where to order the kit from or not order it from? I seen some on ebay for 198.00 those good or not?

 

[brock1]

in my experience ....E-BAY SUCKS for things like this...mostly because you dont know where its coming from...if it were me i would get one from FULL BORE ...they are only about an hour from me here in mich and i know them fairly good...
http://www.fullboreonline.com/sea_doo_top_end_kits.htm here check them out

 

[riding high]

ok, thanks. any advice on where to order the kit from or not order it from? I seen some on ebay for 198.00 those good or not?

DITTO on FULL BORE!!!!!!!!!!

 

[lth8181]

I had good luck with full bore also. only thing is it took 3 weeks from the time i shipped them my stuff till the time i got it back. They do good work tho if you dont mind to wait.

 

[roy4481]

lol, full bore uses the same kits that are available on ebay for 198.00 ... the wsm piston, rings and gasket kit.

 

[riding high]

lol, full bore uses the same kits that are available on ebay for 198.00 ... the wsm piston, rings and gasket kit.

At the risk of being contentious. I would not, repeat would not, have someone on ebay rebore my cylinders and modify my rave valves. I like FULL BORE, but I am sure there are other machine shops that can do the job, Just not ebay. The hassle of having to take the jugs to the shop, have them mic. them and then go buy the kit with the correct pistons, take them back to the shop, wait until they get them done, and them go pick them up, just isn't worth it to me. In the long run I would have spent more in time and gas than what is cost me to have FULL BORE doe the job.:thumbsup:

 

[w.o.t.]

Methodical testing always saves time and money in the end.

I tested it again and I think I had a bad seal on my tester. I got 110 on both this time. exactly the same on each cylinder. Do I need to replace just the head gasket or the entire top end? since it is not my machine I dont want to throw alot of cash into it.

Buy or borrow a leakdown tester. Compression gauge readings can and will vary with things you can't readily control for like cranking speed, RAD, and gauge variation and your own testing prodecure one or both sparkplugs removed, throttle position when cranking, engine temperature, etc etc,etc. Leakdown testing eliminates most of the variables and can help you differentiate between ring seal issues, head gasket issues, crankcase leak issues. I use two strap wrenches on the PTO flywheel to bring each piston up to TDC, that way neither the pump nor the mag cover has to be pulled.

 

[cheappc]

If you get a new compression tester and its better, it could be the rectifier/voltage regulator, I had a similar issue with my 1996 XP, and I changed the rectifier and Water Regulator and it worked awesome after that...

 

[nammer]

If you get a new compression tester and its better, it could be the rectifier/voltage regulator, I had a similar issue with my 1996 XP, and I changed the rectifier and Water Regulator and it worked awesome after that...

I pretty much have the same symptoms, but have yet to clean the carbs, that was next on my list, but this is the 2nd post I've read today about a voltage regulator, is that a common problem, or most likely carbs? (sorry to sort of thread jack)

 

[cheappc]

I pretty much have the same symptoms, but have yet to clean the carbs, that was next on my list, but this is the 2nd post I've read today about a voltage regulator, is that a common problem, or most likely carbs? (sorry to sort of thread jack)

I changed the gray lines, rebuilt the carbs and it still did the same thing. It would bog down, act like its going to die when on the lake. Acted normal on the trailer. After I changed rectifier and water regulator, bamm... wow... havent had a problem since then! (knocking on wood). I read a lot of posts where it was the Rectifier/Voltage regulator..... and for me it was!

 

[roy4481]

where is this regulator located? I checked my manual and I cant find a exact location listed. ??? also whats the cost?

 

[roy4481]

also my plugs are black and wet.

 

[nammer]

thanks cheappc, i'll keep that in mind if rebuilding the carbs don't work for me, but that sounds exactly like my ski

 

[cheappc]

where is this regulator located? I checked my manual and I cant find a exact location listed. ??? also whats the cost?

Ok, you guys sound just like me!! lol, well, it drove me crazy, its in the front of the ski, under the storage bin (remove storage bin), its in the grey box under it (its a bitch to open, be careful because there are electronic wires coming in and out of it), its held in place only by a plastic grip.. and here is a rectifier on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Seadoo-1996-SPX-720-Voltage-Rectifier-Regulator-XP-SPI-SP-HX-GTX-GTS-650-657-96-/190535256585?pt=Personal_Watercraft_Parts&hash=item2c5cc94a09&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_969

of course, we should buy it here from our sponsor at seadooforum.com... I have to tell you, if I was going to do it over again, I probably would buy this one, its new, supposedly is better (but anybody can chime in and correct me), but its a new one for only $15 dollars more?

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1995-1996-Sea-Doo-XP800-XP-800-Regulator-Rectifier?osCsid=f95899cd4ae79923908082d72859c8b2

Here is a video of my 1996 XP after I replaced rectifier/voltage regulator (same thing), I was so freaking happy! lol:
[video=youtube;vFPucnSMefI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFPucnSMefI[/video]