'96 Water Pressure regulating valve

[Ckrawiec]

The WPRV on my '96 ski is leaking from underneath the black cap. I've taken the exterior spring off, the black cap off and the spring under the cap comes out easy. The rest of the valve guts move up and down "fairly" easy. I've looked at the parts picture (cooling system) of the valve and it would appear that the rest of the valve should just sorta come out...but mine is giving me resistance and I was hesitant to just yank on it without knowing any better. I think I need to yank on it....however.....what "parts" would be the most suspect to be bad to be replaced? The "bellow" ($39.99) and or the "valve exhaust" ($22.99)??? I like to have parts in hand before disassembly if at all possible.

Also, any recommendations about how to "yank" it out? Just grab the plastic hex part of the exposed valve exhaust with vice grips and pull? Would a couple squirts of WD-40 down the valve help any? I really hate just yanking on stuff unless that's how it has to be done. As always...the wisdom of the forum (personal experiences) are always greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

 

[racerxxx]

Just pull straight up. You should be able to do it with your fingers, no vise grips. If it doesn't click back in the housing or piston is bad. I just replace the entire unit and I never have to worry about it for years to come.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Just pull straight up. You should be able to do it with your fingers, no vise grips. If it doesn't click back in the housing or piston is bad. I just replace the entire unit and I never have to worry about it for years to come.

Yeah, see that's my initial issue.....finger pressure alone was not getting the valve guts to come out...it moves up a little and goes back down but "resists" me enough that I can't get it out. Could just be some crud build up down in there that I can't see so maybe a little "extra" pulling is necessary....I didn't want to moose it without knowing any better....I know sometimes pulling things out with internal O-rings or sealing washers can sometimes be "difficult".

What is this "piston" that you mention? The parts diagram only shows a "feeding rod" that all parts seem to slide down over...the feeding rod is under the valve exhaust top part that has the plastic hex nut on top.

I have not explored just replacing the entire valve assembly.....any good sources for "reliable" USED parts...I assume OEM is not an option as some parts appear to be not even be available?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I bet you've got some debris stuck inside? I'd unthread it from the waterbox for a closer look.

Mine was fairly lose and easily moved up and down without binding, a look inside revealed no debris. The metal bellows clamp that rusts, busts and pokes a hole in the bellows was in fine shape. I would've used a small tie-wrap had it been rusty. Given the clamp was fine,, I didn't disassemble it.

 

[racerxxx]

You can get almost anything OEM for these skis. I don't think I've encountered a mechanical part I couldn't get whether from a dealer or on eBay OEM new.

The piston as I called it is the part your trying to remove, they call it the exhaust valve, my bad. You can remove the entire valve from the water box, use a 7/16 wrench, do not thread it off the brass fitting. I've see more stripped from people doing it that way.

 

[racerxxx]

As mentioned, you need to look under the bellow, find where you would squeeze the clamp, look at either one of those points of contact. Remove the metal clamp, throw it away, use a small cable tie, where's your clamp is good or not, it's only a matter of time. Mark the bellow where those points of contact are. Remove the bellow completely, look where you marked and roll the bellow with your fingers. It will look fine just looking at it, but there could be a micro slice. If that's fine and no cuts, the housing is probably worn out.

 

[racerxxx]

I'd be surprised if there was debris, I've had a bunch apart and have never had any and all the skis I've owned or worked on ride in sandy areas. Like in my first post, that exhaust valve should click in when it goes back together, that's the resistance you're feeling.

 

[Ckrawiec]

I'd be surprised if there was debris, I've had a bunch apart and have never had any and all the skis I've owned or worked on ride in sandy areas. Like in my first post, that exhaust valve should click in when it goes back together, that's the resistance you're feeling.

Thank you very much for your insight....I may go into it this week sometime just to see if I can get it apart with a little "extra" effort.

Yes, I've read about the clamp eventually failing and just replacing it with a zip tie. I'll check for micro tears, etc.....water is getting out from under the black cap somehow, not a lot .... but enough to see it.

The ski was used to me, but assuming the PO rode in similar waters as I do (all fresh - upstate NY)...it is possible that the ski has sucked up micro vegetation over time...I did in fact find a vegetation plug in the larger water line leading INTO the head...was plugged at least 1 1/2" length blocking inlet cooling water SO some of that could have found its way into the PRV over its lifetime (I'm assuming)...IN WE GO!

 

[racerxxx]

Keep us posted

 

[mikidymac]

I have seen quite a few that do not snap back together and the piston body does not lock back into the housing. This causes them to leak water into the hull and leave water stains on the waterbox. I know someone here tried to use an o-ring in the groove on the piston and it worked without any issues.

I still don't understand how exactly this seals from the factory since it's just smooth plastic against smooth plastic without any mechanical seal. There is an obvious groove that is perfect for an o-ring but there is not one from the factory. Mine has become loose on my 1996 XP so I think I am going to try to put an o-ring in the groove and see if there are any issues before buying a brand new one. This is one of those mysteries that has never been solved on the Seadoo's.