'96 Speedster Mid-High Bogging

[manofthehitch]

Hi Guys, I just found your site yesterday and have been thrilled with what I've found. My history so far is...

I bought my Speedster last year off ebay...it arrived and wouldn't start saddly I was unfamiliar with the boat never realized that the battery's were not connected to each other so when I charged the battery of easiest location only one of the engines would start. I took it to the closest marina however I don't think they knew what was up either as they suggested that the problem was the electrical board. They ordered a new board, it arrived and was installed and then I was told I needed new batteries... They were replaced the bill was paid and I picked up the boat. I took it out and here is my issue. The engines start great and will idle forever, but will only accelerate slightly and start to bogg down. Not much fun at under 5mph in the lake.

Yesterday I removed the air filter so I could look down into the carbs. When I engage the throttle the lower valves open the motor accelerates then as they are opened up further it starts to bogg and fuel spray starts coming back up the carbs.

I found this forum and read through the Fuel Distribution Problem Thread and did what I could. I don't have grey lines so I haven't changed those, but I took apart the carbs to clean the carb filters and they were not cloggled at all. The regulator valves seem to be fine too. I have not done a complete rebuild. I put the carbs back together this morning and nothing has changed.

I'm not a mechanic... is the engine being flooded? Is that why the fuel is coming back up the carb?

The spark plugs are new. They were replaced by the marina and are
NGK R
BR8ES

I read about the low and high carb settings but haven't yet found where my ideal settings would be. I bought the boat from a guy in Texas and am now running it in Southern Alberta Canada.

Any help would be great...oh...both engines are doing the exact same thing. One does not seem to be better than the other.

As a final question: Is there a good way to have the engines running without being in the water? I've stuck my hose into the intakes and have water blasting in while they are running. Is that ok? The engines performance seems to be identicle now out of the water with my hose as it was when I was in the lake.

Only one of the engines has any kind of identification plate...

Mot Nr 4396419
Type 657 X

Thanks so much

Chris

 

[kustomkarl]

Chris first this is how to run your seadoo on the hose.You can hook up the hose to the seadoo and have it run for up to 5 minutes to flush it out. Connect the hose and start the seadoo. Turn on the water after it is started. Turn off the water, than shut down the seadoo. Always do it in this order.

There are two places you can connect the hose, one is next to the fuel tank filler behind the drivers seat, It has a cap and a chain attached to it so it isn’t lost. The other is at the stern in the top right corner. You can thread a hose into this fitting too but I prefer the top one, under the deck lid. This way you don’t have to pinch off any feed lines or regulate the water going to cool the engine.

Attach the garden hose, Leave the deck lid open with the blower running, so you can vent the compartment and allow the garden hose to fit properly. This also allows you to see the engine while it is running to check for cooling leaks. Start up the boat, turn on the water, in this order. If you have too much water flowing, it will run out the rear water connector and not over fill the engine with water. Be sure water is coming out the “Tell Tale”.

You can run it for about 5 minutes at IDLE which should be at about 3000 rpm’s. When you’re done, turn off the Water FIRST, then pull of the Lanyard to kill the engine. This way it won't allow water to back flow into the engine through the exhaust due to no back pressure from the engine not running. The bearings and seals on the impeller jet pump are cooled from being in the water. When it is on the trailer it doesn't have that cooling effect so they will get hot after about 5 minutes.


I would do a compression test too to see what is going on inside. Here is some info on the compression test;

You'll need a compression tester. Go to Auto Zone. I think they sell for like $25.00. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem.

Let us know how you make out doing the compression test and we'll go from there.

Karl

 

[timmyboy76]

hey Chris, welcome to thee forum...for flush'n, use the adapt assy thats underneath the hatch lid, has little chain on cap, for motors, they're both doin it?, I'd lean, since bein 96", do carb rebuild kits, possibly the diaphrams are worn out. when rebuild'n, you notice little springs in kit, dont use them, use whats in the carbs(float arm spring, for the n/s-needle and seat).
As for lsa and hsa, lsa(low speed setting) looks like "T"screw toward bootom of carbs, set those at 1.25, and hsa set at "0", its located toward top of carb, facing motor, should have white cap on it...start with this, oh do compression test also....good luck...also, check the nuetral switch , located under the lever assy, just unbolt/unscrew and lift unit up, and from there, push to forward, make'n sure button pops up...

 

[manofthehitch]

Hey I discovered the REV LIMITER... it was stuck and is now functioning...
I'm off to the lake!!!

Thank you so much!
Chris