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96 Seadoo XP

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Jumped the solenoid and it turned over! Didn't want to push its and try to start the engine but it sounded great. So where can I get a solenoid for this beast. Buying fuel line, drain oil, oil injection lines, oil filter, and pulling carb soon. Probably should check compression but I don't want to jump it for that long. How long before it welds the screwdriver onto the solenoid? I didnt want that to happen so i only jumped the solenoid for a second. No beeps when I put the key in.
 
I'm going to try that Minnetonka. Thanks I was thinking about painting it yellow but if I can clean it that sounds cheaper.
 
Jetskigoodies said:
Do you have a charger hooked up to the battery while it is connected to your seadoo? If so do not do that again, when charging the battery take it out of the seadoo. You can damage the mpem that way.
Click to expand...

i've been doing it this way for going on 4 years now, no mpem issues, granted i was either using a Tender Jr or Optimate, but I've never pulled my battery except to replace it.
 
I have the filters and new and used solenoids in stock.

Use a pliers on the solenoid and check that compression right now. Its not an issue.
 
Spimothy Leary said:
i've been doing it this way for going on 4 years now, no mpem issues, granted i was either using a Tender Jr or Optimate, but I've never pulled my battery except to replace it.
Click to expand...

I do it like you too spim, I just always set the key on the battery or charger to remind me to unplug it before I try and turn it over...
 
When I press the start button to turn over the engine there is a click I just didn't notice it because the guy I bought it from lived off a major street. I don't even have to change the wear ring. Looking at the drive shaft bellow and carbon seal it all looks almost new. Driveshaft is all shiny. VTS is corroded and doesn't work. It would be a nice option but it's so expensive to fix the vts.


To do list:
1. Solenoid New
2. Fuel Lines/selector valve
3. Oil Drain/Fill- Empty bottle of Mineral Xps Oil in trailer box. I'm assuming he used Mineral Oil. Its like a brownish oil. Oil tank is almost empty. Stuff is pretty expensive.
4. Oil Filter/Fuel Filter
5. Oil Injection Lines replace
6. Carb Rebuild
7. VTS Boot
8. Fuel Sensor
9. Clean Hood and Handlebar Pad
10. Buff and Wax
11. Seat cover
12. Clean Rave Valves
13. Fix VTS
14. Almost forgot change jet pump oil
15. Grease where needed

I was going to redo the seat cover but I really like the seadoo painted on the seat. I was thinking about making a stencil and using vinyl spray paint. What do you guys do? Going all yellow. The storage box had a pair of yellow oem handlebar grips so I'm stoked. I kind of gave up on the handlebar pad and cover... Minnetonka gave me a good deal on it too I would feel bad putting it ebay and making money on it so i'm just keeping it. Maybe one day I can do it. Bought two braces and motocross pads. It's more to my skill level versus trying to fabricate something.
 
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Do the seat cover, get the stencil from Dr. Honda, they are not expensive JSG has instructions. A clean seat and new stencil will go a long way.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...encil-your-vinyl-parts-Step-by-step-Pictorial

here is the one I did

346.jpg
 
Are these skis worth more parted out? Not that I would do that to my beloved Seadoos but just curious. People are selling the Styrofoam pad that I almost threw away for $30. I have two! Without the cover too. Also have the stock intake grate and the handlebar pad/cover I bought off Minnetonka. Anybody want to trade? Maybe I should sell it online because I'm not getting very many serious offers for the tigershark and trailer. I was hoping to get rid of it quick and have some cash to fix up the XP.
 
It's not too bad with the vts down the middle but you're probably right. Especially since I ride in the pacific ocean and it gets really choppy. $100 for the trim fix and how much for a new motor? Double that because both of my XPs VTS are not working. Sigh. I'm planning on fixing it one day. I haven't done any testing on it but I'm reading up on how to do that.

Heard it could just be a fuse... I should find out. I have fuses. I know if I start troubleshooting the vts I won't sleep until I find a fix.
 
Most of the time the fuse blows for a reason, so it will just blow again. But you might get lucky. Also it could just be the VTS motor that is baked, and the electronics are fine, thats not too expensive, Minne sells them at a reasonable price.
 
I am under the impression that it is the trim housing and motor. This is the best upgrade you could possibly do to an older seadoo. The trim is by far the shittiest thing about these old X4s.
 
Hmmm. Time to search how to fix seadoo vts. hahah. Maybe I swap out the motors or electronics and have one working one? That would be awesome. I want to try out my friends multi meter on the vts electronics. What setting do I put this thing on? hahah. Sigh. There's one my friend highlighted. Its on my list. On the bottom of the list but I plan to get to it now.
 
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Please make sure to use synthetic oil. The oil you should be buying should be a minimum of $30 a gallon and should be a honey brown color, not blue. If you replace the fuse on the trim and it pops again, disconnect the vts plug from the harness.
 
Just because the foams are on ebay doesn't mean that's what they're selling for. I see tons of the same items ranging from $40 to $150. If the $40 part is clean and it's not selling, you don't list yours for the same or more, it's an obvious sign that the part is not worth that much or it's not a hot seller. I just don't get guys on Ebay that do that. Magnetos are a prime example, I bought a mint one for less than $20 shipped, yet other guys are trying to fetch upwards of $150. Sorry, but when there is an abundance (more supply then demand) the price hits the dirt in my eyes and I'll scour for the lowest price.

Now onto the Tigershark. I'm gonna be blunt (I apologize), it's a boat anchor, I'd rather have sand thrown in my eyes then to be caught dead on it, again I'm sorry it's just my opinion. Lower the price to what a 2 place trailer goes for in your area and list it with a free tigershark I feel as that is going to be the only way it's going to leave your possession.

Man, that whole post sounds negative, and I had a great day today. Sorry Mikekim, I'm only a doo lover. Now get that 96 moving along.

I can't say sorry enough, I now that was harsh.
 
The 95 xp came with 1.25 gal mineral XPS oil that I almost finished up using. Thought it would be fine but obviously I have no idea.

The 96 I suspect has mineral oil because of the empty bottle XPS mineral oil in the trailer box I bought with it. Since I have no idea I figured I would clean the oil tank and switch to synthetic. Should I do the same for my 95 XP? I hope its okay.

Thanks Jetskigoodies. I appreciate all the help.
 
No the tigershark is fun man. I would keep it if I had more space but I like the Seadoos way more. Its great in the chop and a comfortable ride. I had fun with it. No offense taken. Thought it was funny. I'll definitely drop the price down now that I haven't gotten any serious offers.
 
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There are a bunch of oil threads on here, some people use quicksilver synthetic but I only use seadoo's brand xps2 it is synthetic, the bottle is yellow. Here is a picture of what the bottle looks like. You will either have to get it from a dealer or buy online. I pay $112 for a case.

548.jpg
 
Might as well clean up the 95s oil tank as well. It says to use synthetic in the manual. At least for peace of mind. I don't want to mess it up, still has perfect compression after 18 years of neglect but I'd love to ride it 5 more years or more... I think I have one gallon of XPS mineral left over. What can I use it for? I hate to waste it. So now I have to buy $70 for 2 gallons of oil to refill the seadoos. Not too bad I guess. Wait. How much is in a case?
 
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[MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] is right on the parts too. Used parts prices all depend on the condition and availablity of the items. I have a bunch of those styrophoam peices and have never just sold one, I have added them in when selling a complete handlebar pad. I think I may have just given one away to someone buying a starter too. Even the pads themselves only go for alot if they are almost perfect. The stock intake grate you can use as a hanger to spray paint parts or use it to prop up a leg on a table or something besides that they are garbage. I have alot of thise as well. Just because people are asking one thing does not mean they are getting it. Look this guy is selling grey fuel lines for $45

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-SEADOO..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item5891af8c31&vxp=mtr

You can get all new lines for that price and that water seperator is only $10 shipped

549.jpg
 
Hilarious. Point taken. I'll just put it away in a box for the next Seadoo I buy or somebody who needs one. I can't bring myself to throw it away. I'm kind of a pack rat but I'm not that bad. I'll have garage sales to get rid of stuff or just give it away to other pack rats. Gotta sell that trailer and tigershark and get the XP fixed. Summers coming!
 
mikekim9182 said:
The 95 xp came with 1.25 gal mineral XPS oil that I almost finished up using. Thought it would be fine but obviously I have no idea.

The 96 I suspect has mineral oil because of the empty bottle XPS mineral oil in the trailer box I bought with it. Since I have no idea I figured I would clean the oil tank and switch to synthetic. Should I do the same for my 95 XP? I hope its okay.

Thanks Jetskigoodies. I appreciate all the help.
Click to expand...

If it were me, I'd use the mineral oil up in the '95 XP (assuming it is PWC quality, API-TC oil) since that has the 717 (no RAVE), but most people seem to recommend the Full Synthetic API-TC in the 787 engines. That is what I plan to use (if/when I get a 787).

Good news that your '96 XP turned over and has good compression. That cuts $1000 off the cost to get 'er running.

Jumping across the solenoid proves that the starter, battery, wires, and ground are good, but unless I missed something I don't think you can assume that the solenoid is bad based on this test (unless these are notorious for crapping out). Based on past experience with solenoids (but not on Sea Doos), the next test is to test the low current (small wire) side of the solenoid.

[EDIT: The Service Manual has some easy to follow steps in Section 8, Subsection 4, page 2. It explains how to test the Start switch, kill switch (lanyard) and two tests for the solenoid - ignore my next paragraph...].

Hopefully someone on this forum can tell you (us) what wire on the "small wire" side of the solenoid would need 12v jumped to it in order to activate it. Given the MPEM concerns, taking the solenoid completely out of the jet ski might be the best idea for this test. I believe, if the solenoid tests good, then the starter button, the kill switch, and of course the MPEM itself could cause this problem.

My next step would be to check the low current (small wire) side of the solenoid to verify that it really is bad.

IMHO, getting this problem figured out is your #1 priority so that you can check to see if you are getting a spark.

Then as the #2 priority I would do all of the fuel/oil related things on you list (to include cleaning the RAVEs). It would also be a good idea to check with BRP or the dealer to see if the gas tank has been replaced. I am pretty sure these came with a defective tank that they will replace for free.

Once you have these 2 priorities figured out, then you can at least play with it a bit on the water while the rest is tweaked.
 
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