96 gtx newb need some help.

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Redsled

Redsled

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So I bought an old 96 gtx with the 787 in it. The first night with some new plugs it ran awesome. The next morning it ran good. Then in the afternoon the trouble started. So I hit the google button and found out about the grey fuel lines. So I replaced all the fuel lines. I test the fuel selector which worked good. I took out the carbs and left the cables attached to brackets to not disturb anything. Cleaned the filter and carbs out. I did not go all the way in the carbs because I didn’t wanna risk damaging gaskets but they were pretty clean. The little filters had some stuff but not clogged. The fuel lines actually look ok no determination or green slime. I tested the rectifier and it worked. I ran with the red wire off and tried the loose gas cap
So it’s stzrts ok. And will run but as soon as you get some good throttle it dies.
Oh and I did the trim the spark plug wires also. One time it worked good at under 40 mph for about an hour. I then shut it off went for supper. It started then died and wouldn’t start again.
I didn’t do compression test yet since I don’t have the tool here. Anything else I should check ?

Oh and thx.
 
I am having the almost exact same problem. Changed out all my fuel lines, rebuilt the carb, new rectifier, drained and cleaned gas tank and I put it in the water, give it some throttle and bubkiss it dies.. I do have an open thread but I’m gonna piggy back here too to see if I’m missing anything. I have a 97 GTI
 
Your going to have to rebuild the carbs with oem kits. See the carb rebuild thread. Pay particular attention to spraying out the 3 small holes in the carb throat. Also replace the fuel selector valve with oem. I would go ahead and replace the rectifier also. Many people do everything except the fuel selector. Don’t forget new needles and seats.
 
Also clean the rave valves. If they are not slotted consider replacing them.
 
mwat65 said:
Your going to have to rebuild the carbs with oem kits. See the carb rebuild thread. Pay particular attention to spraying out the 3 small holes in the carb throat. Also replace the fuel selector valve with oem. I would go ahead and replace the rectifier also. Many people do everything except the fuel selector. Don’t forget new needles and seats.
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Sorry I should’ve included that all of that was all done too. This machine will be the death of me I swear.
 
PrincessConsuelaBH said:
Sorry I should’ve included that all of that was all done too. This machine will be the death of me I swear.
Click to expand...
Have you checked voltage while revving to 4000 rpms on the hose. I was referring to the original poster with the 96 Gtx on the carbs raves and selector valve.
 
I'll throw this one out there for you guys. Not saying this is your problems but something easy to look into. My 96 GTX had trouble running and it was because of clogged fuel tank vent lines. Found some Styrofoam balls stuck in one of them. Another time, I had overturned the ski and the vent lines filled with water. Didn't know until the next time I had the ski out it ran crappy and died. Blew them out with compressed air.

Another thing....if you have just replaced all the fuel lines make sure that you haven't mixed any up and all are connected to the correct places. There are a couple threads on the forum here where people got them mixed up. Check your new fuel line hook up points and check your fuel tank vent lines....the vent outlet that the vent line hooks up to that goes through the side of the hull might be plugged. Maybe the neighborhood kinds shoved some dirt in there or some bugs made it in there during the skis previous life. Take the vent line end off the fuel tank and blow air through it so that the line and the outlet fitting in the hull get cleared.
 
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mwat65 said:
Your going to have to rebuild the carbs with oem kits. See the carb rebuild thread. Pay particular attention to spraying out the 3 small holes in the carb throat. Also replace the fuel selector valve with oem. I would go ahead and replace the rectifier also. Many people do everything except the fuel selector. Don’t forget new needles and seats.
Click to expand...

The fuel selector is working properly I don’t think it’s that. I will check the little holes and rave valves
esahlin said:
I'll throw this one out there for you guys. Not saying this is your problems but something easy to look into. My 96 GTX had trouble running and it was because of clogged fuel tank vent lines. Found some Styrofoam balls stuck in one of them. Another time, I had overturned the ski and the vent lines filled with water. Didn't know until the next time I had the ski out it ran crappy and died. Blew them out with compressed air.

Another thing....if you have just replaced all the fuel lines make sure that you haven't mixed any up and all are connected to the correct places. There are a couple threads on the forum here where people got them mixed up. Check your new fuel line hook up points and check your fuel tank vent lines....the vent outlet that the vent line hooks up to that goes through the side of the hull might be plugged. Maybe the neighborhood kinds shoved some dirt in there or some bugs made it in there during the skis previous life. Take the vent line end off the fuel tank and blow air through it so that the line and the outlet fitting in the hull get cleared.
Click to expand...
i will double check but the lines are pretty simple they are marked. I will double check the vent too.
 
I do have an update. The problem has changed. So now not only does it run poopy but once it’s hot it dies and won’t start.
I found that the old owner soldiered the start solenoid were the main battery connection is but left that small fused line all loose. I fixed that but no help. I wonder if it damaged the coil since I think that powers it.
 
Remove them from the ski. 2 Allen bolts. The mag side or front you will have to remove the cap from to clear your exhaust elbow.
 
If you had gray fuel lines your fuel selector is done too. They get clogged and don’t let enough fuel through. They also suck air. Use only oem fuel selectors. The aftermarket ones are junk. Have u pulled the rave valves ?
 
Redsled said:
How do you check rave valves ?
Click to expand...

Just take them out and clean them, but it's unrelated to basic run problems, rave valves work under load out on the water at about 5K.

I feel for the issues you people are having, but what worked for me as I top to bottom rebuilt my completely trashed 97' GTX I picked up last year, is GO THROUGH EVERTYHING. Spend extra attention to detail in the fuel system and check specs of everything, use new OEM carb kits needles/seats, pressure check, etc. You stated you hadn't replace the fuel selector or didn't go deep in the carbs. Do both and go farther.

The list is long what I found, but related to your issue, I had fuel vents sticky or clogged, I had real issues in the carbs, clogged jets and low speed holes, bent throttle plate, and plenty of rust. This is all from a ski that sat for "about a year" according to the PO. As a precaution I verified every line fitting and path, found a complete blockage in a couple areas. It's not very expensive, but I replaced every single water, fuel and oil line, except the black 1/2" lines at the head cover.

Also, check the RV cover clearance, this can be an issue and gets overlooked, I was way out of spec and had .06 machined, I mis measured (RV out solder method) and still need about .03 removed. But it starts easy doesn't stall, doesn't hesitate and runs strong. I spent hours out on the lake this past weekend. No issues, just go through it and take your time, don't over look anything and you'll reap the rewards.
 
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mwat65 said:
Have you checked voltage while revving to 4000 rpms on the hose. I was referring to the original poster with the 96 Gtx on the carbs raves and selector valve.
Click to expand...
I did it in the water. It was 13.4. I ordered a rectifier and coil and wires anyways. Ordered a carb kit before I saw on here that the aftermarket are junk. Ugh. Also ordered a new solenoid.

But it’s weird that now it is completely dieing after awhile then won’t start till it cools down.
The selector is clear flowing I will test if it’s sucking air but as far as function it’s working.
 
Redsled said:
I did it in the water. It was 13.4. I ordered a rectifier and coil and wires anyways. Ordered a carb kit before I saw on here that the aftermarket are junk. Ugh. Also ordered a new solenoid.

But it’s weird that now it is completely dieing after awhile then won’t start till it cools down.
The selector is clear flowing I will test if it’s sucking air but as far as function it’s working.
Click to expand...

Did you read the part I posted about the RV clearance? If it's too far out of whack you can get where it'll die and be hard to start. A greater RV clearance will cause a scavenging effect between cylinders.

A starter solenoid will have nothing to do with it quitting on you, it only does its job to send voltage to the starter. If it's turning over when you press the start button it's working properly.
 
GGuillot said:
Did you read the part I posted about the RV clearance? If it's too far out of whack you can get where it'll die and be hard to start. A greater RV clearance will cause a scavenging effect between cylinders.

A starter solenoid will have nothing to do with it quitting on you, it only does its job to send voltage to the starter. If it's turning over when you press the start button it's working properly.
Click to expand...

I have no idea what an RV is but yet the solenoid does have to do with it Since the 10a dude is powered from the spot where the main power wire connects from battery to solenoid. At this point he made a mess and the 10a fuse line that powers everything electrical besides the starter runs from there and it was super floppy loose.

I will gladly check the clearance if I can figure out what the RV is.
 
Redsled said:
I have no idea what an RV is but yet the solenoid does have to do with it Since the 10a dude is powered from the spot where the main power wire connects from battery to solenoid. At this point he made a mess and the 10a fuse line that powers everything electrical besides the starter runs from there and it was super floppy loose.

I will gladly check the clearance if I can figure out what the RV is.
Click to expand...

You may want to download a service manual, it's like the bible, has absolutely everything in it. I don't have a link, but do a search.

RV is Rotary Valve, it's underneath where the carbs mount to, it's integral for passing the air and fuel to the cylinders. The service manual shows a straight forward way to check it using the solder method. Don't do like I did and second guess, check it with the RV in, not out. If it's out of spec, bring the cover to a reputable machine shop and tell them how much you need removed on the outer lip and oring seat.
 
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Awesome thx. I have tried to download manuals but it won’t download. I ca look at them but can’t download and print. I have no service at the lake so I can’t look at them online.
 
The fuel selector will flow and then not flow. Have u tried it on reserve?
 
Yes maybe I will bypass it to try it since I would have to order one.
Our Local dealer won’t wven work on older seadoo???
 
I bypass all of mine . My personal preference. One thing I recommend for everyone is to put a new o ring on the rv cover/ intake, especially if it has ever been removed. I have fixed many skis (800s and 720s) that we’re losing fuel pressure and/or hard to start in the water by doing this. Also check rv clearance using the solder method.
 
To expound on the rv cover o- ring. I had a 97 Gs that I went through with a fine toothed comb. Never could get it to run right. I finally after 2 months of messing with it figured out that someone had put an 800 o-ring on it. Changed it out and it ran like a brand new ski. Literally ran perfect.
 
If you bypass to the on position you will run out of gas sooner as the reserve straw goes deeper into the tank.
 
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