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96 GTX AND 96 GTI FUEL PROBLEM???

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ape1972

ape1972

Active Member
Hello everybody,
I finally got both of my Seadoos put back together and to them to my local lake. I couldn’t get either of them to the no wake zone. I have all the carb settings as the shop manuals suggest.

The GTX ran great at idle for about a minute then bogged out. Then it took for ever to start again. Every time I tried to use the throttle weather it was feathering or just hammer down it would shut off!

The GTI I can keep running by feathering but like the GTX if I had it it bogs and dies. Also it runs very rough in or out of the water and smokes like an SOB.

I just put in new needle and seats (genuine Mikuni) and diaphragms (not OEM) in both jetskis.

Could it be the fuel delivery somewhere???

Any and all help is much appreciated!!! I have a trip planned for the Colorado river this Labor Day and would hate to miss it!
 
could be flooding, all the idling then the sudden hammering down and it killing it. So you've verified you have correct settings, but you haven't mentioned if they have been rebuilt before, if they haven't that'd be your first step. Assuming you used the proper rebuild kits and such if you did rebuild them?
 
Unfortunately, I think you answered your own question in the original post....you did not use OEM (Mikuni) diaphragms. These carbs are so finicky about original parts (aftermarket kits are not up to the task). You should go back through the carbs with genuine Mikuni kits and follow the CARB REBUILD sticky post with no shortcuts.
 
Ckrawiec said:
Unfortunately, I think you answered your own question in the original post....you did not use OEM (Mikuni) diaphragms. These carbs are so finicky about original parts (aftermarket kits are not up to the task). You should go back through the carbs with genuine Mikuni kits and follow the CARB REBUILD sticky post with no shortcuts.
Click to expand...

Wow! I can understand the needle and seats needing to be oem but I thought the diaphragm and gaskets would be fine to use! Oh well I guess I’m going to take the alert again!
 
ape1972 said:
Wow! I can understand the needle and seats needing to be oem but I thought the diaphragm and gaskets would be fine to use! Oh well I guess I’m going to take the alert again!
Click to expand...
I myself have fallen victim to the aftermarket carb kits....I thought HOW different could they be.....lesson learned the hard way....it is humbling...many have tried, many have failed...we all go back to the OEM eventually
 
besides me making this same mistake....I didn't know all those springs were not the same in the kit. ultimately I sent it out to be rebuilt because of that..

could have saved a lot of time and money if I had bought the right kit and not replaced the original spring.
 
Ok so I just got back from the lake and here are my results!

My 96 GTI ran great! The only thing I thought was strange is that the range from 3/4 to WOT did nothing! Maybe a little boggy.

The 96 GTX idled great but I had to feather the throttle so it wouldn’t bog down. It had great mid to top end though. At the end of my trial run (probably around 15 minutes of run time) At WOT it bogged completely out! It would only start with the choke. The it ran at full speed for a second and bogged. I repeated this process to get back to the dock. It almost felt fuel starved.

Just an FYI I bypassed my fuel sector switch and ran it straight from the reserve line to the carb.

I really want to take them to Laughlin this weekend but I don’t want any issues.

Please help!!!
 
ape1972 said:
Ok so I just got back from the lake and here are my results!

My 96 GTI ran great! The only thing I thought was strange is that the range from 3/4 to WOT did nothing! Maybe a little boggy.

The 96 GTX idled great but I had to feather the throttle so it wouldn’t bog down. It had great mid to top end though. At the end of my trial run (probably around 15 minutes of run time) At WOT it bogged completely out! It would only start with the choke. The it ran at full speed for a second and bogged. I repeated this process to get back to the dock. It felt fuel starved.

Just an FYI I bypassed my fuel sector switch and ran it straight from the reserve line to the carb.

I really want to take them to Laughlin this weekend but I don’t want any issues.

Please help!!!
Click to expand...
I had almost identical problems recently. Find my post "Help for a Newbie"

anyway....a slight pull up on choke lever and my engine screamed (done at half throttle).
I was running too lean for 2 reasons...needle settings, but previous owner had installed a K&N and removed airbox. everyone said this is not the way to go, so I had to get an airbox. everything OK now.

there is one thing that does bother me....starting it up on trailer, it has to warm up a little before I can blip the throttle and rev it. If not warmed up....it bogs and might die. I think the low needle is too lean.

Help for a newbie...
 
Why the ski run great for 15 minutes and then act like it was fuel starved? It still appeared to idle ok!
 
ape1972 said:
Why the ski run great for 15 minutes and then act like it was fuel starved? It still appeared to idle ok!
Click to expand...
someone recommended I rebuild/clean fuel selector valve.
Also that moisture separator near it.
I put something in the thank to help with moisture too....
 
The fuel selector valve should be replaced....cleaning/rebuilding is not worth it....old seals dry out and/or are damaged while trying to be cleaned.....it's a $20 part...just replace and move on.
The fuel / water separator internal filter should be replaced and the O-ring checked/replaced...make sure everything is aligned properly when re-installing.

If the carbs have been rebuilt and you are still experiencing "boggy" problems....chances are you will need to re-visit the carbs (follow that Carb rebuild Sticky post religiously) AND you need to make certain that all the cable adjustments are correct as well...throttle & choke. Everything has to be in sync for these machines to perform at their best.
 
Ckrawiec said:
The fuel selector valve should be replaced....cleaning/rebuilding is not worth it....old seals dry out and/or are damaged while trying to be cleaned.....it's a $20 part...just replace and move on.
The fuel / water separator internal filter should be replaced and the O-ring checked/replaced...make sure everything is aligned properly when re-installing.

If the carbs have been rebuilt and you are still experiencing "boggy" problems....chances are you will need to re-visit the carbs (follow that Carb rebuild Sticky post religiously) AND you need to make certain that all the cable adjustments are correct as well...throttle & choke. Everything has to be in sync for these machines to perform at their best.
Click to expand...

have not found "Sticky" carb rebuild post....if you have it, please post link
 
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