'96 GSX Engine Removal - What to look out for?

[nitr0genics]

OK guys, the time has come to rebuild the top end and carbs as shes getting a little harder to start as time goes on, I don't know if/when the last rebuild was and how many hours it's done since that time... ANYWAY...

Figured I may as well pull the entire engine give the hull a good old clean out and refurb the engine, flaky paint etc, my question is, is there anything to look out for when removing the engine or any special tools i'll need to disconnect parts/take it apart?

Cheers guys!

 

[mikidymac]

Nothing special. Remove the pump first then the driveshaft. On some models you don't have to split the two pipe pieces but I think the GSX is pretty tight.

If it were mine and I was going to keep it I would replace the crank and rebuild the balancer shaft and rotary shaft. This is a 20 year old ski and I have seen quite a few that do just a top end and the crank and balancer can't take the stress and let go.

 

[nitr0genics]

Nothing special. Remove the pump first then the driveshaft. On some models you don't have to split the two pipe pieces but I think the GSX is pretty tight.

If it were mine and I was going to keep it I would replace the crank and rebuild the balancer shaft and rotary shaft. This is a 20 year old ski and I have seen quite a few that do just a top end and the crank and balancer can't take the stress and let go.

Something like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Sea-D...408687?hash=item2ee4d12a2f:g:mZkAAOSwKIpV~M35

The problem I have is living in the UK parts (if I can source new) are expensive as hell so there comes a point where the cost effectiveness comes into question, but I do understand exactly what you're saying

 

[mikidymac]

That kit isn't bad that you posted but you have to have the heavy press and skill to rebuild and true a crank. There must be a shop on the UK that would offer the service. The bearings and seals to rebuild the balancer and rotary shaft are not that expensive but you will need a press for the balancer rebuild. I would just hate for you to go to the trouble of a top end and have the crank let go.

Worst case would be to at the very least replace the outer crank seals and rotary shaft and balancer seals when you have the engine out.

 

[nitr0genics]

That kit isn't bad that you posted but you have to have the heavy press and skill to rebuild and true a crank. There must be a shop on the UK that would offer the service. The bearings and seals to rebuild the balancer and rotary shaft are not that expensive but you will need a press for the balancer rebuild. I would just hate for you to go to the trouble of a top end and have the crank let go.

Worst case would be to at the very least replace the outer crank seals and rotary shaft and balancer seals when you have the engine out.

oh without a doubt every single seal and gasket will be replaced, as you say while it's out, as for shops that are able to do the job, there's pretty much only 2 reputable companies in the UK who work on skis as a business, and I do live within 20 miles of one the problem I have is I called for a price on mikuni rebuild kits - yesterday in fact, and he was pushing for me to let them rebuild them for what equated to £15 more than he wanted for the rebuild kits which doesn't make sense at all and I was starting to wonder if I'd be charged for mikuni but have them rebuilt with winderosa kits or something

 

[racerxxx]

Nothing special. Remove the pump first then the driveshaft. On some models you don't have to split the two pipe pieces but I think the GSX is pretty tight.

If it were mine and I was going to keep it I would replace the crank and rebuild the balancer shaft and rotary shaft. This is a 20 year old ski and I have seen quite a few that do just a top end and the crank and balancer can't take the stress and let go.

Um......disconnect the carbon seal assembly first, THEN the pump. If you drop the pump first you'll curse yourself out trying to remove the carbon seal c clip. But that's me.

 

[mikidymac]

Um......disconnect the carbon seal assembly first, THEN the pump. If you drop the pump first you'll curse yourself out trying to remove the carbon seal c clip. But that's me.

Darn it racer! Yes, carbon seal first, LOL.

 

[nitr0genics]

Thanks Racer, think Miki was just trying to sabotage the Brit

 

[racerxxx]

Avoid the Noid, he hates quality Seadoo work. LOL Just busting your chops Mik. I know you know that step first.


[video=youtube;bri0SA7FTf4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bri0SA7FTf4[/video]

 

[mikidymac]

1988? Damn!

 

[nitr0genics]

I was 3 years old then...

So in terms of bottom end, which is better a new WSM crank or rebuilt OE? They are coming in around the same price (think I can get a new crank slightly cheaper than a rebuild...) I know to some this may seem a no brainer but can I rely on the aftermarket crank just as well or better than a rebuilt crank?

 

[Spimothy Leary]

quick comment.

If its getting harder to start, are you sure your starter and/or battery aren't the culprit? And not the carbs or anything top end/compression related.

I'd hate to see you go through the time & expense and be right back at square 1.

If i'm getting good compression, I'm not touching the top end/crank, i'm riding it until it pops.

 

[nitr0genics]

It's most definitely the carbs causing the issue...

Starter was new last season had it out today while carbs were off and it's free and rust free engages fine on bench

Battery is brand new west co 16clb

Compression is 155 on each cylinder +-1/2 psi just thrown starter back on and checked it again So compression is fine

Fuel lines were done 2/3 seasons ago but I'm doing them again with blowison lines

Carbs are bad though at the point of junking and need rebuilding but I wanted to do a resto on this ski to say it's tatty aesthetically is a compliment and figured why not do the internals too though I know aside the carbs they are in pretty GWO

You've got me questioning myself now Mr Leary lol

Looks like the carbs are going off to the shop too last monkey that had hold of them over torqued and rounded the screw heads! Maybe it's a sign just have the carbs done and enjoy it until as you say goes pop

 

[Spimothy Leary]

that's my approach for a 787, 717, (cyl's are reasonable, cases rarely get ventilated when it pops)

I have different opinions on 951, because when they blow they generally do significant damage to cases which can get pricey.

So personally (just my opinion) i'd do the carb's and pretty everything up, and see if it runs better.

I'm not much into the 100% resto movement, not to downplay the incredible work on display here in many threads, I've never taken apart an engine with perfect compression, but I have rattle canned a few to pretty them up.

ps. stripped carb screws are quite common, i'm used to it now.

 

[nitr0genics]

Yeah maybe a better approach to the whole idea

 

[1983]

I wouldn't touch that engine if the compression was that good.

If you want to tinker, take the carbs off, fully disassemble, clean, rebuild, set pop off ( don't replace the pop off springs if they come with rebuild kit!!! ) reassemble, replace all fuel lines, clean fuel/water separator ( make sure o-ring seal is good on separator ) refill fuel tank and go ride. :hurray:


Rob

 

[1983]

Oh and order one of these ( everyone on this forum should ) I will never use another phillips screwdriver in my life.

Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta P2x100 #2 Cross Point Impact Screwdriver.

I ordered both the 100mm length and 150mm length. Ebay has them cheapest also.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1Q7DY59WNBYKNMYQHN4E

These are JIS, very imilar to phillips head, but much better bite. Plus the addition of the cam mechanism inside for seized/stuck carb screws will save ur butt a million times during rebuilds.


Rob

 

[nitr0genics]

The heads have been raped into submission on a few of the screw heads so taking em to the shop they arent much more expensive to have them do it and gonna have them replace the Phillips screws with the Allen head bolts

 

[mikidymac]

I think you are on the correct path now that you have good compression.

To answer your question the best crank you can get are the OEM rebuilds from SeaDoo.

What "new starter" did you get?

 

[Spimothy Leary]

+1 on JIS, (and I'm really glad I bought the Vessel brand) I bought them after fighting with a set of kawi triple carbs, using lots of bad words, then I stumbled across a thread that mentioned them, now they are my favorite tools!

good idea to replace the screw's, we had some of those screw kits floating around here for awhile, great kits!

 

[nitr0genics]

Off to the shop in rush hour wish me luck

 

[nitr0genics]

I think you are on the correct path now that you have good compression.

To answer your question the best crank you can get are the OEM rebuilds from SeaDoo.

What "new starter" did you get?

It's a cheap starter from the bay of the fleas, I periodically check for a Denso but they are rarer than hens teeth over here