96 GSX bogs from idle to wot

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sittin sidewayz

sittin sidewayz

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I got a 96 gsx this week. I noticed that f I go from idle it wot instantly it will bog down.

If I gradually increase the throttle it wont bog. And after about 1/3 throttle its all good.

Any input will be appreciated!
 
Several things to check first.
Do this ski still have gray fuel lines ??? If so change them to Black Automotive.
Clean the Fuel Selector switch
Rebuild/Clean Carbs.
The above is for if you have a fuel delivery issue.

Secondly
Unplug the red wire from the rectifier and take it for a short ride and see if that fixes it. If so you need a new rectifier.

I gave you alot of things to look at since I don't know the history of your ski. Some of these things may have already been done. I don't know.

Let us know.
 
Ski history as far as I can see.... It had 114.5 hours (prob 116.5 now) when I bought it. It was a nevada seadoo (so cal now). Wasnt registered since 07. I dont know what to look for mechanically that would be aftermarket or needing repair. It has hydro turf floor pads and seat cover. The fuel gage always says low fuel. I dont think the vts works. Its hard to steer at top speed under throttle. Other than that I dont know anything about this ski.

im assuming it has grey fuel lines. It hasnt been reg. since 07 (until now) So I should prob just change them either way huh.

How much fuel line should I get for a 96 gsx and what sizes??

What is the fuel selector switch? The knob that turns the gas on/off and res.? How do I clean it and why would that make a difference? (not doubting you just trying to learn)

I will look up how to's for rebuild/cleaning of carb. Im a newb so that kinda scares me

What is a rectifier and where is it located?

Could It be the jetting since it was originally a Nevada ski?
 
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Okay that is good info. Let's get it running right first then we can troubleshoot the electronics. (Fuel Sensor, VTS )

Yes do change the fuel lines. The gray fuel lines breakdown creating what we call green goo stopping up everything. You will need 25ft of Black Automotive 1/4 inch Fuel Line. Also get a Clear In-Line 1/4 inch Fuel Filter to add in the supply line just before the carb.
You will need SS Worm Clamps to replace those useless Seadoo Clamps.

The Fuel Selector switch is the Knob that turns the gas on and off. It gets stopped up with green goo from the old Fuel Lines. It has a Phillips head screw the holds the knob on. Remove it then you will see a nut that holds it in the hole. Remove the Nut and you can take it out of the ski. I usually just spray carb cleaner and air through mine. Or you can buy a new one for around 20 bucks.

Rebuilding the carbs are easy. Youtube has lots of how to videos on it. I was like you and scared when i did my first set. Trust me it is real easy. You will need a rebuild kit. Also I never change the original pop off springs. They come in the kit but I don't use them and just leave the originals in and I have never had to reset Pop Off pressure.

In the front electrical box there are 3 yellow wires and 1 Red. Just unplug that red wire to check the rectifier.

I don't think you have a jetting issue.


Now for the electrical issues :
Fuel showing low is probally from the fuel sensor inside the Tank. I have a GSX 787 engine that shows low fuel all the time because the fuel sensor is bad in the tank. I have never fixed it. I just make sure I fill the ski up on the way to the lake each time.

The VTS could be the cause of hard turning. Especially if it is trimmed all the way down. That could be a blown fuse or bad VTS Motor.

Let me know how you come out
 
Read, Read, Read about the fuel system on the forum. There is threads here on tricks to rebuilding. Trouble shooting. A sticky instruction post at top of forum about carb adjustments. It's one of the main problems you can have with a Ski. You will need a pressure tester to test the pop off on the carb and fuel system. ODS Sea Doo parts can set you up with what you need. Make his tool for installing the check valve disks. You can find a down loadable shop manual Online for your ski too. If you can wrench and have a brain it can be done. good luck and ask questions.
 
Ok. So before I bought it the guy that sold it to me sent me a pic of something and said he was replacing it. I asked him today if it was the rectifier and he said voltage regulator. Are these the same thing because what he has in his hand in the pic looks like a rectifier (from what I can see from google)
 
32.jpg


So it looks like I have the dreaded tempo lines....

What are these hoses for??

33.jpg
 
Those pipes keep fresh air inside the hull.
Fresh air flows through the holes in the front of the seat and gets push down the foam cylinder tube that is under the back of the seat. The excess or dirty air in turn is sucked out those tubes. The top of those tubes mount under the hood, so while at speed there is a slight vacuum or suction that is created from under the hood that helps keep the air moving. It all works together to keep fresh air going to the engine.

Good luck with your new ski.
 
Vents the bilge too, so no gas fumes can make it go boom. Boats need to have a power blower vent to clear bilge before start up. Ski's have the going fast venting.
 
It would be a rectifier. They turn the output of magnito into DC voltage to run Ski and charge battery. Most bolt to the computer in the front section of the ski. Voltage regulators turn on and off alternators on vehicles.
 
ok thanks. So I guess it has a new rectifier Lol. Thats cool =)

Off topic question.

Does the digital tach only read rpms? I want to change it to mph but cant figure out how.... Now that i think about it though it prob wouldnt even be accurate anyway...
 
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I don't even worry about MPH. I just know I am going damn fast for the conditions! My best running one says 55MPH at full WOT for a mile. I am too busy staying on the Ski to worry about MPH.
 
Ok so does my gas tank need to be empty in order to change the lines? Because I have a good amount of 91 in the tank. I guess if anything I can siphon it out and put it in a gas can...

Also is the gsx (787) single carb or dual carb? What rebuild kit should I buy and wheres the best spot to get it?
Im scared but im going to go for it. Lol
Thanks again guys!
 
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sittin sidewayz said:
Ok so does my gas tank need to be empty in order to change the lines? Because I have a good amount of 91 in the tank. I guess if anything I can siphon it out and put it in a gas can...

Also is the gsx (787) single carb or dual carb? What rebuild kit should I buy and wheres the best spot to get it?
Im scared but im going to go for it. Lol
Thanks again guys!
Click to expand...
The gas tank doesn't need to be empty to change the fuel lines.

You'll also need 20'-25' of fuel line to replace the Tempo ones. Just take one old line off. Measure that one against the new line and cut. Install the clamps and re-install the new line. Can't go wrong!

The '96 GSX is a dual Mikuni SBN carb setup. Use Mikuni rebuild kits and replace the needle & seats while you're in there.

Here's a few places to get you started:


http://watercraftmagic.net/Watercraft_Magic/Home.html

http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_...ption=1&keyword=complete+carb+rebuild+package

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/mikuni38-46superbncarbrebuildkit.aspx
 
Do one line at a time. Take it off measure to length of new hose with the old one. Use stainless hose clamps. Be careful taking off old lines. You do not want to break off a plastic nipple. You need metric hex drives, Metric sockets and wrench's. Need to get 8mm they are not in most sets. Add a inline fuel filter on the line going into carb. The carb with the pump should have arrows on top for in and out. I think most carbs the low line is fuel in top is fuel return to tank.
 
All of the above answers are correct. Also you can find the mikuni SBN manual on line. Google it. It has a great drawing of how the thing works and is assembled. Only rebuild one carb at a time, and do it over a tray so if something falls out it does not bounce away. You have to take off the flame air intake box, flame arrestor and then the carbs. You will need a good set of metric allen wrenches to get the carbs off. Loosten the set screw on the choke cable on the rear carb to let the cable come out. I would clean out your bilge before you start. Use some purple power cleaner from walmart automotive section and wash it all out good. You are sure to drop screws and wrenches in there and it is much easier to get them back from a clean bilge.

There is not speedo function on a GSX. You can use a GPS to get you top speed if you want. [MENTION=71334]Davidgsx[/MENTION] a member here has a couple 96 GSX skis. He is in Malibu so he may be a good local contact for you. You are in SoCal right? Your fuel tank gauge can be fixed but it is a PIA since you have to pull the tank forward and also move some stearing stuff to do it. Search my posts, I think I may have posted a pix of it. Good luck and have fun. That ski is awesome.
 
sittin sidewayz said:
Thanks for the links.

I got this so far from there.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=595_602_1&products_id=8549

Is there anything else I should buy with this rebuild kit. Look at the options below the product description.
Click to expand...

That is a complete kit and will get your carbs done, except your needle valve springs. They don't generally wear out, so your original ones should be fine, unless the pop off gives you a hard time or if they are corroded.

You will also need some loctite 518 (or permatex 518) to seal the top of the carb to the air box. I put a thin coating of synthetic grease on the O rings before assembly. As mentioned before, put an inline filter in just before the carbs.

If this is your first rodeo, take your time, don't rush and only pull one carb apart at a time. That way you can always use the other one as a reference when putting it back together.

Good luck.
 
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