95C1500's 1996 and 1997 SPXs

[95C1500]

I'll spare the introduction and just post the link to my introduction thread
https://www.seadooforum.com/threads/new-to-water.108276/
This'll be my log of these machines. Parts replaced, random pictures, etc...

I was given a couple of seadoos over the weekend. My parent's neighbor didn't want them anymore. One is a 1996 SPX (the green one) with a 717 Rotax and the other is a 1997 SPX (yellow one) with the 787 Rotax.

I pulled them in the driveway on sunday and gave them and the trailer a good wash. Seeing something clean, even when it doesn't run, makes me more motivated and excited. They clean up pretty well for sitting in torn up covers for years.

He added some fuel stabilizer when he parked them but you can tell as soon as you pop the seat off, the gas is bad. No surprise there. So, my dad siphoned out the old gas yesterday.

My plan is to check compression in all four cylinders (140ish psi correct?). Then a new fuel filter, spark plug, and gasoline in each. If either one still has the factory grey fuel lines (I believe the yellow one does), then I'll replace those too. I'm hoping they'll both run well after a tune up and fresh gas.

My neighbor said the green one would run fine on the trailer but as soon as you put it in the water, it would rev up but wouldn't accelerate. He had the impeller and wear ring replaced under recommendation of the dealership he took them to. He said it didn't fix the problem.

A carb rebuild will probably come after that. I literally just looked up a "carbon ring" and signs of it going bad. I noticed some black gunk that I thought might be oil on the bottom of the engine compartment near the rear (stern?). I'm thinking it might be the carbon ring? So I'll have to look into that too.

Like I said in my introduction post, I know cars and bikes. I don't know PWCs periods or carburetors well (other than some basic single cylinder dirt bikes). So, I will be familiarizing myself with the carburetor sticky threads on the forum and watching youtube videos about them before taking that step.

If anyone has any other suggestions on things to check out, change out, suggestions, anything, please let me know.

 

[Major Woody]

Man Scott those things are creampuffs, really. Other than the cosmetic decay from sitting they should clean up great! You scored big time.

Those are OLD toys though. If you want them to be reliable for you, now is the time to go through them and deal with age related deterioration of various systems.

Download and print free service and parts manuals for both of these skis from seadoomanuals.net. Put them in a binder and make notes as you go along. They will serve you well and help you to maintain the engines for long life. Seadoo made liberal use of threadlocker and special sealants for many many screws and several locations that you will be getting into when you work on the fuel system. That stuff is important. The manual shows every place it is used, along with the torque of fasteners. Highlight all the locations where special sealants and threadlocker are used so you don't miss it when you're in the middle of a repair. Pay close attention to the little details in the manuals; everything is the way it is for a reason.

The carbon ring seals the spinning driveshaft where it exits the hull. Unless you see water coming in there when the ski is sitting in the water, leave that alone. It's very unlikely to be an issue. The crap in the hull could be anything. It is really hard to get them clean at the back without degreaser and a shop vac.

Compression check on the 787 should be no less than 140, but really you are looking for 150. On the 717 I don't know. With 140 it should start and run anyway but is on its way downhill. Use a good compression tester. The cheap ones are sometimes really inaccurate. Some auto parts stores loan tools and will let you borrow one. That's a good way to go.

Don't try to run them until you remove and thoroughly clean the carburetors and go through the fuel system. If, when you disassemble the carbs, you see any sign of corrosion, they will need to be rebuilt (they might anyway but I wouldn't assume that). You mentioned that you found the carb rebuild thread, which is excellent. You will use that to disassemble the carbs and clean them. You will need carb cleaner, compressed air and most importantly a #2 JIS screwdriver to fit the screws on/in the carbs. The screws look like a regular phillips but a regular screwdriver doesn't fit them properly...especially the ones inside the carbs and you NEED to get those out without screwing them up. If you round them off or strip them out, you will be sorry so drop the coin for the special JIS screwdriver and be very careful and deliberate when breaking the screws free. When you put the carbs back on the 787, sync them (you need a flashlight and a mirror to ensure that the throttles open at the exact same moment). Everything is in the manual. Take pics as you disassemble so you don't forget how it all goes back.

When you replace the fuel lines, clean the water separator and replace the fuel selector. The selectors can develop an air leak or partially clog and cause your engine to run lean. On a 2 stroke, a lean burning engine might run, but will grenade itself in short order. The fuel line is 1/4". Make sure you buy fuel line that is rated for fuel containing ethanol. The factory clamps on the gray lines are crimp on and will need to be cut off and replaced with worm drive clamps. Some of those are not 100% stainless and have parts that will rust. Make sure to buy 100% stainless clamps.

You'll need to order carb base gaskets. You can order them on ebay direct from China for a price that is so ridiculously cheap you won't even believe it, like a buck apiece shipped.

Get a can of fogging oil and spray some into the spark plug holes before attempting to turn over the engine (replace plugs first but put the plug wires on the grounding posts temporarily). You will use that fogging oil often to prevent corrosion of the cylinders; the exhaust system always has water in it so if the ski is going to sit for any length of time, it's good practice to fog those cylinders before putting it away. Otherwise moisture from the exhaust will migrate up into the cylinders and form rust.

Find out what kind of 2 stroke oil the PO was using. If it is not synthetic which complies with the type of oil specified by Seadoo, get it out of there. Replace the little 3/32" oil lines from the pump and the oil filter which is in the oil line between the tank and the pump. The 3/32 tubing is just chainsaw fuel line and super cheap. Get the real Tygon brand, costs a hair more but at least it's real and will resist oil as it's supposed to. Oil is the lifeblood of a 2 stroke. DO NOT BUY CHEAP OIL. It costs what it costs. Buy the good oil and if you're short on cash, buy cheap beer instead.

On the 787, remove and clean the exhaust power ("RAVE") valves. One will lift right out, but the other one hits the manifold so you have to take it apart in place to get it out. Don't drop crap into the engine through the RAVE slots and make note of the direction the RAVE blades came out so you can put them back in the way they came out. Be gentle with them when cleaning the blades.

"Rev up but wouldn't accellerate" almost sounds like maybe there is an obstruction in the tunnel ahead of the impeller. Look at the driveshaft under the ski...anything wrapped around it? Inlet grate still there?

Change the pump oil on both skis--it's time. A quart of 75w90 sythetic gear oil from the auto parts store will be more than enough to do both skis. I think it's only 3 oz or something. Special oil resistant thread sealant required on the fill plug--see the manual. If you find anything other than old rancid gear oil when draining them, post those results here for further guidance.

While you've got the nozzle off to do the pump oil, on both skis (including the one that supposedly had the wear ring done), reach in from the back (and check the clearance between the impeller and the wear ring with a feeler gauge. There is a spec in the manual. If the gap is out of spec or the wear ring is damaged, replace the wear ring. Again, cheap and easy. Look at the impellers--any damage? If so take a pic and post it.

While you're at the store, get a couple bags of black zip ties--bigger ones that are used to keep things organized in the hull and smaller ones that are used on oil lines, pulse line and a few other places. Seadoos are primarily held together by zip ties, you'll see.

I'd suggest a separate thread for each ski; it will be easier to keep the advice straight as you go through them. If you mix the work on both skis together in just one thread, it may get confusing since they are so similar.

Other smarter people will come along with other things you should check. You got lucky...the 717 ski isn't the fastest in the world but it's a fun hull and that engine is super reliable. The '97 ski is arguably one of the best PWCs ever sold. Light, powerful, fun, handles great, easy to do flat spins, born to get big air. Both skis are de facto one-seaters. Too tippy for two adults.

Looking forward to following along.

Chris

 

[Matt Braley]

Wow good job. It's like the whole forum in one post. That could be a "just got skis" supplement to the manual.

95c1500 welcome to the forum. You fell into the best toys ever.

 

[etemplet]

Yup that post from "Woody" ought to be a "Sticky" !!

95C1500 - you are motivating me to restore the 1997 SPX I bought for $50 with a title. It is "Ick" ugly and little grass things are growing on the paint. LOL. I love how the hoods and hulls on your skis are in great shape...that is half the battle or more. I really like the 1996 SPX !! That engine and system is so reliable and uncomplicated compared to the 787. Good Luck and enjoy the journey !!

 

[mikidymac]

As others have said, do not run them on the water before rebuilding the carbs and fuel system.

 

[95C1500]

Man Scott those things are creampuffs, really. Other than the cosmetic decay from sitting they should clean up great! You scored big time.

Those are OLD toys though. If you want them to be reliable for you, now is the time to go through them and deal with age related deterioration of various systems.

Download and print free service and parts manuals for both of these skis from seadoomanuals.net. Put them in a binder and make notes as you go along. They will serve you well and help you to maintain the engines for long life. Seadoo made liberal use of threadlocker and special sealants for many many screws and several locations that you will be getting into when you work on the fuel system. That stuff is important. The manual shows every place it is used, along with the torque of fasteners. Highlight all the locations where special sealants and threadlocker are used so you don't miss it when you're in the middle of a repair. Pay close attention to the little details in the manuals; everything is the way it is for a reason.

The carbon ring seals the spinning driveshaft where it exits the hull. Unless you see water coming in there when the ski is sitting in the water, leave that alone. It's very unlikely to be an issue. The crap in the hull could be anything. It is really hard to get them clean at the back without degreaser and a shop vac.

Compression check on the 787 should be no less than 140, but really you are looking for 150. On the 717 I don't know. With 140 it should start and run anyway but is on its way downhill. Use a good compression tester. The cheap ones are sometimes really inaccurate. Some auto parts stores loan tools and will let you borrow one. That's a good way to go.

Don't try to run them until you remove and thoroughly clean the carburetors and go through the fuel system. If, when you disassemble the carbs, you see any sign of corrosion, they will need to be rebuilt (they might anyway but I wouldn't assume that). You mentioned that you found the carb rebuild thread, which is excellent. You will use that to disassemble the carbs and clean them. You will need carb cleaner, compressed air and most importantly a #2 JIS screwdriver to fit the screws on/in the carbs. The screws look like a regular phillips but a regular screwdriver doesn't fit them properly...especially the ones inside the carbs and you NEED to get those out without screwing them up. If you round them off or strip them out, you will be sorry so drop the coin for the special JIS screwdriver and be very careful and deliberate when breaking the screws free. When you put the carbs back on the 787, sync them (you need a flashlight and a mirror to ensure that the throttles open at the exact same moment). Everything is in the manual. Take pics as you disassemble so you don't forget how it all goes back.

When you replace the fuel lines, clean the water separator and replace the fuel selector. The selectors can develop an air leak or partially clog and cause your engine to run lean. On a 2 stroke, a lean burning engine might run, but will grenade itself in short order. The fuel line is 1/4". Make sure you buy fuel line that is rated for fuel containing ethanol. The factory clamps on the gray lines are crimp on and will need to be cut off and replaced with worm drive clamps. Some of those are not 100% stainless and have parts that will rust. Make sure to buy 100% stainless clamps.

You'll need to order carb base gaskets. You can order them on ebay direct from China for a price that is so ridiculously cheap you won't even believe it, like a buck apiece shipped.

Get a can of fogging oil and spray some into the spark plug holes before attempting to turn over the engine (replace plugs first but put the plug wires on the grounding posts temporarily). You will use that fogging oil often to prevent corrosion of the cylinders; the exhaust system always has water in it so if the ski is going to sit for any length of time, it's good practice to fog those cylinders before putting it away. Otherwise moisture from the exhaust will migrate up into the cylinders and form rust.

Find out what kind of 2 stroke oil the PO was using. If it is not synthetic which complies with the type of oil specified by Seadoo, get it out of there. Replace the little 3/32" oil lines from the pump and the oil filter which is in the oil line between the tank and the pump. The 3/32 tubing is just chainsaw fuel line and super cheap. Get the real Tygon brand, costs a hair more but at least it's real and will resist oil as it's supposed to. Oil is the lifeblood of a 2 stroke. DO NOT BUY CHEAP OIL. It costs what it costs. Buy the good oil and if you're short on cash, buy cheap beer instead.

On the 787, remove and clean the exhaust power ("RAVE") valves. One will lift right out, but the other one hits the manifold so you have to take it apart in place to get it out. Don't drop crap into the engine through the RAVE slots and make note of the direction the RAVE blades came out so you can put them back in the way they came out. Be gentle with them when cleaning the blades.

"Rev up but wouldn't accellerate" almost sounds like maybe there is an obstruction in the tunnel ahead of the impeller. Look at the driveshaft under the ski...anything wrapped around it? Inlet grate still there?

Change the pump oil on both skis--it's time. A quart of 75w90 sythetic gear oil from the auto parts store will be more than enough to do both skis. I think it's only 3 oz or something. Special oil resistant thread sealant required on the fill plug--see the manual. If you find anything other than old rancid gear oil when draining them, post those results here for further guidance.

While you've got the nozzle off to do the pump oil, on both skis (including the one that supposedly had the wear ring done), reach in from the back (and check the clearance between the impeller and the wear ring with a feeler gauge. There is a spec in the manual. If the gap is out of spec or the wear ring is damaged, replace the wear ring. Again, cheap and easy. Look at the impellers--any damage? If so take a pic and post it.

While you're at the store, get a couple bags of black zip ties--bigger ones that are used to keep things organized in the hull and smaller ones that are used on oil lines, pulse line and a few other places. Seadoos are primarily held together by zip ties, you'll see.

I'd suggest a separate thread for each ski; it will be easier to keep the advice straight as you go through them. If you mix the work on both skis together in just one thread, it may get confusing since they are so similar.

Other smarter people will come along with other things you should check. You got lucky...the 717 ski isn't the fastest in the world but it's a fun hull and that engine is super reliable. The '97 ski is arguably one of the best PWCs ever sold. Light, powerful, fun, handles great, easy to do flat spins, born to get big air. Both skis are de facto one-seaters. Too tippy for two adults.

Looking forward to following along.

Chris

Man that is a wealth of information. I greatly appreciate it. I downloaded the manuals and I've got a checklist and a parts list just about ready to go. I've got a few gaskets to add to the list yet. Just to get them going I can see this will be an expensive hobby. As expected, but still lol.

Do the 717 and the 787 share the same carb base gaskets? From what I've found, they do. Just want to double check.

Anything special about the pump oil? Any special ratings it needs to meet? Preferred brands?

I've never synced carbs though (never owned anything with more than one carb). That seems a little daunting. Thank God for service manuals.

Yup that post from "Woody" ought to be a "Sticky" !!

95C1500 - you are motivating me to restore the 1997 SPX I bought for $50 with a title. It is "Ick" ugly and little grass things are growing on the paint. LOL. I love how the hoods and hulls on your skis are in great shape...that is half the battle or more. I really like the 1996 SPX !! That engine and system is so reliable and uncomplicated compared to the 787. Good Luck and enjoy the journey !!

I wasn't aware they were all that different other than displacement before I started digging. I'm excited though! The green is the one my neighbor couldn't get to run the entire time he had it. I hope it will be simple, but I'm fully expecting a chore.

As others have said, do not run them on the water before rebuilding the carbs and fuel system.

Duly noted

Thanks Matt Braley. I tried quoting your post but the forum thinks it's spam.

 

[etemplet]

That 1996 SPX was my favorite ski. I really like the smaller skis and I might have mentioned the 717 is the most simple reliable engine but you gotta treat them "right" as with any of them. I don't find the hobby that expensive unless you end up with a bunch of skis but there are Worse things. Ha ha. Good luck and welcome

 

[GGuillot]

Not to take away from anything said above, all great advice. Couple things, if you jack up the screws in the carb(s) getting them apart don't panic, you can buy complete stainless steel allen head screw sets for cheap. I believe I paid $9 shipped per carb.

Carb base gaskets alot of times are included in the packaged carb kits, stay away from the knock off cheap carb kits, get the genuine mikuni stuff. You'll pay more, but it's worth it. I'd recommend to replace needles/seats/springs/arms and all when you're at it. Use everything in the kit(s) except the springs. You may need to get or make a carb pop off tester, that way you can verify.

Pay attention to adjusting the throttle cable and the oil pump cable properly, it's outlined in the SM.

The syncing is easy (off the ski/motor) on the 787 dual carb, I lay the RV cover with the carbs mounted to it on the workbench with a light shining on the back side. Easy...sync throttle plates closed, no light, then just adjust the idle screw 2 full turns in once it contacts, you should barely need to turn it later to adjust the idle.

Once you start a thread on each ski you can get further guidance as you go...good luck and good score on the skis.

 

[Major Woody]

I did not think of syncing them off the ski. That is a good idea!

As to interchangeability of parts, always go by part number. Seadoomanuals has both parts and service manuals for download. You will want both, because the part numbers only appear in the parts manual. That will tell you about what parts fit what. Some things look similar but aren't.

Scott, on the pump oil-- no, nothing special as long as it's the specified viscosity and synthetic. It's just a couple bearings running in oil, not a demanding application except for the high RPM.

I have a pop off tester you can borrow if you cover the shipping OR-TX-OR. For the cost of that shipping, you could buy the parts to build your own though.

The only thing about old 2 stroke skis that is expensive is fuel and oil, once you get the initial maintenance done. If you have to pay a mechanic for repairs and maintenance, or you buy a ski that is severely jacked up, of if you deviate from stock, then yes it can be expensive. Just do all the maintenance at the specified time intervals and exactly as it says in the service manual, protect the ski from freezing, weather and corrosion and don't try to drive it onto land, and you should be ok!

Even if I could afford a mechanic, I would probably still do most of my own maintenance. I feel that it is helpful to understand the machine.

These toys are not fun if your vacation or day on the water is repeatedly ruined by a breakdown. They're cheap to buy, byt these are all 20+ year old machines by now so you really can't assume anything is good to go. That's why it's such a good idea to go through them thoroughly at the outset.

I would open up both of your electrical boxes and VTS housing, make sure they are dry inside and no evidence of water intrusion or corrosion. If you see damage, post pics and we can look. When you reassemble, lube the sealing gasket with o-ring lubricant intended for pool and spa pumps. https://www.amazon.com/Aladdin-Magic-Teflon-Lubricant-Sealant/dp/B0039ZE2HK
It will ensure the parts slide together and seal properly and will not affect the material the seal is made of. On the rear electrical box, the seal will probably come off with the lid and stay stuck there but when you reassemble, it goes on the box first and then you slide the lid over it. Make sure the locking tabs don't get tangled in the seal.

You can also use the Aladdin lube on the seal for the airbox cover, which is also difficult to get back together once the parts and the seal have been cleaned.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, your 1996 SPX and 1997 SXP use the same carb base gasket. OEM #293250134

Be careful removing the intake manifold as you will have to buy a new o-ring and can end up with an air leak just to sync the carbs. It is really not hard to sync the carbs by sound getting your head over them and snapping them shut you can hear when one is closing before the other.

 

[Major Woody]

I forgot to mention to carefully inspect the VTS boot. It's in the back, in the jet pump tunnel, on the rod that controls the up-down angle of the jet nozzle. The boot is what keeps water out of the VTS unit. It is supposed to be on there with special plastic clamps. Unless it is perfect, replace it. If it has the wrong clamps, get the right ones.
That's another spot for the pool and spa o-ring lube mentioned upthread--it will help the boot make a perfect seal.

 

[95C1500]

That 1996 SPX was my favorite ski. I really like the smaller skis and I might have mentioned the 717 is the most simple reliable engine but you gotta treat them "right" as with any of them. I don't find the hobby that expensive unless you end up with a bunch of skis but there are Worse things. Ha ha. Good luck and welcome

I've got a few hobbies where I end up with a bunch of whatever lol.

Not to take away from anything said above, all great advice. Couple things, if you jack up the screws in the carb(s) getting them apart don't panic, you can buy complete stainless steel allen head screw sets for cheap. I believe I paid $9 shipped per carb.

Carb base gaskets alot of times are included in the packaged carb kits, stay away from the knock off cheap carb kits, get the genuine mikuni stuff. You'll pay more, but it's worth it. I'd recommend to replace needles/seats/springs/arms and all when you're at it. Use everything in the kit(s) except the springs. You may need to get or make a carb pop off tester, that way you can verify.

Pay attention to adjusting the throttle cable and the oil pump cable properly, it's outlined in the SM.

The syncing is easy (off the ski/motor) on the 787 dual carb, I lay the RV cover with the carbs mounted to it on the workbench with a light shining on the back side. Easy...sync throttle plates closed, no light, then just adjust the idle screw 2 full turns in once it contacts, you should barely need to turn it later to adjust the idle.

Once you start a thread on each ski you can get further guidance as you go...good luck and good score on the skis.

Noted. Thanks!

I did not think of syncing them off the ski. That is a good idea!

As to interchangeability of parts, always go by part number. Seadoomanuals has both parts and service manuals for download. You will want both, because the part numbers only appear in the parts manual. That will tell you about what parts fit what. Some things look similar but aren't.
I checked part numbers and they were the same. The carbs on the 717 are a different size than the ones on the 787. I figured they'd have different gaskets.
Scott, on the pump oil-- no, nothing special as long as it's the specified viscosity and synthetic. It's just a couple bearings running in oil, not a demanding application except for the high RPM.
Fantastic!
I have a pop off tester you can borrow if you cover the shipping OR-TX-OR. For the cost of that shipping, you could buy the parts to build your own though.
I'll have to build one
The only thing about old 2 stroke skis that is expensive is fuel and oil, once you get the initial maintenance done. If you have to pay a mechanic for repairs and maintenance, or you buy a ski that is severely jacked up, of if you deviate from stock, then yes it can be expensive. Just do all the maintenance at the specified time intervals and exactly as it says in the service manual, protect the ski from freezing, weather and corrosion and don't try to drive it onto land, and you should be ok!

Even if I could afford a mechanic, I would probably still do most of my own maintenance. I feel that it is helpful to understand the machine.

These toys are not fun if your vacation or day on the water is repeatedly ruined by a breakdown. They're cheap to buy, byt these are all 20+ year old machines by now so you really can't assume anything is good to go. That's why it's such a good idea to go through them thoroughly at the outset.
Expensive is subjective. ~$1000 to me, a broke college student, is a lot of money. In the grand scheme of things, yes they are relatively inexpensive.
I would open up both of your electrical boxes and VTS housing, make sure they are dry inside and no evidence of water intrusion or corrosion. If you see damage, post pics and we can look. When you reassemble, lube the sealing gasket with o-ring lubricant intended for pool and spa pumps. https://www.amazon.com/Aladdin-Magic-Teflon-Lubricant-Sealant/dp/B0039ZE2HK
It will ensure the parts slide together and seal properly and will not affect the material the seal is made of. On the rear electrical box, the seal will probably come off with the lid and stay stuck there but when you reassemble, it goes on the box first and then you slide the lid over it. Make sure the locking tabs don't get tangled in the seal.

You can also use the Aladdin lube on the seal for the airbox cover, which is also difficult to get back together once the parts and the seal have been cleaned.

I'll add those to my checklist

Yes, your 1996 SPX and 1997 SXP use the same carb base gasket. OEM #293250134
That's what I figured. Thanks!
Be careful removing the intake manifold as you will have to buy a new o-ring and can end up with an air leak just to sync the carbs. It is really not hard to sync the carbs by sound getting your head over them and snapping them shut you can hear when one is closing before the other.

Makes sense.

I forgot to mention to carefully inspect the VTS boot. It's in the back, in the jet pump tunnel, on the rod that controls the up-down angle of the jet nozzle. The boot is what keeps water out of the VTS unit. It is supposed to be on there with special plastic clamps. Unless it is perfect, replace it. If it has the wrong clamps, get the right ones.
That's another spot for the pool and spa o-ring lube mentioned upthread--it will help the boot make a perfect seal.

Also added

 

[95C1500]

Took some time this afternoon to check compression on both. Tossed the one battery I have in each and tested each cylinder twice. I sprayed some fogging oil in the spark plugs holes before turning them over. Both plugs removed, first time the engines had turned over in ~3-5 years (therefore, cold).

1996 717
Mag: 145 psi
PTO: 140 psi

1997 787
Mag: 155 psi
PTO: 155 psi

Compression looks good to me so it appears I'll be spending some time and money getting these things prepped for the summer.

Also go the girlfriend to get her hands dirty which is always a good thing.

I snagged a pic of the hull damage on the 97 as well. It doesn't look as bad as I remember.

 

[mikidymac]

Compression looks great.

That hull is going to be fun to repair.

 

[95C1500]

Compression looks great.

That hull is going to be fun to repair.

Worst case scenario, I'll take it to the boat (mainly body work) repair guy that lives three houses down and see what he has to say about it

 

[Major Woody]

The yellow of your lower hull is the same yellow as my hull. Mine has damage to the gelcoat only. This week I am buying a quart of gelcoat and a quart of high gloss additive for spraying. I will end up with half a gallon of product, but only need about three pints.
The picture is blurry so it is hard to tell if the fiberglass is broken all the way through or what. Can you take better pics with the stickers removed (use a heat gun). After you fix the structural damage to the fiberglass, you will need to repair the gelcoat. Maybe you would be interested in buying the stuff I have left over from my repair? Gelcoat is kinda expensive if you want the correct color and the spraying additive. I think if you want to properly blend the repair, you will need to spray. Nice that your neighbor likely has the proper gun.

 

[95C1500]

I can take some more when I head over there this weekend. Once (if?) I get them running, I'll take them over to that guy down the street and see what he has to say about it.

 

[95C1500]

I had not expected to make zero progress with these over the last two months but I was replacing the AC system in my pickup, covid19 hit, I'm on Furlough so no paycheck currently, and I'm finishing up a semester of engineering school.

My tonneau cover rotted and failed so I snagged the toolbox off the trailer and put it in my truck yesterday. I took the black over-the-rails box that I had planned on using in my truck and put it on the trailer. I decided to organize the crap inside while it was all out and in doing so, renewed my motivation for these things.

I'm going to order a few things for them and pull the carbs off to clean and inspect them. Maybe I'll have these things running in a couple weeks.

Nothing exciting for now, but hopefully soon.

 

[95C1500]

My plan to have worked on these things over the last week has fallen apart. Aside from no longer being on furlough and working 11 hour shifts, I'm having a hell of a time getting parts to show up. My induction tach was lost and my order from seadoowarehouse still has not shipped. All they said was they were still waiting on two parts to come in.

Supposedly the carb had been rebuilt 5 years ago and haven't really ran in that long. I had planned on pulling them apart, checking popoff, cleaning the filters, reassembling, and making sure the low and high speed screws are set to factory specs. If they don't run correctly, I'll order rebuild kits after I get paid this Friday.

 

[mikidymac]

5 years of sitting is too long on the carbs, you really need to service them.
I have had a TinyTach for years and love it.

 

[95C1500]

5 years of sitting is too long on the carbs, you really need to service them.
I have had a TinyTach for years and love it.

Yeah, you're right. I have a couple back to oem kits in my shopping cart on osd. They are currently out of stock until June 10th because of Mikuni needle and seat shortages. I should finally be getting my fuel selector valve and filter next week though.

------------------

Pulled them into the driveway this afternoon and started tearing them down. Only made small progress on the 97 but, it's progress none the less. Nothing too exciting.

On the 96, my girlfriend wiped the hull down to clean up the sludge that had accumulated. Need to get in there and really get at it but it looks a lot better now. Pulled the air cleaner cover off and noticed the seal was missing. Possible source of the bogging issue? Either way, I've got one in the cart over at osd.

On the 97, I wiped what little sludge was in the hull and pulled the carbs off. Found a stripped set screw on the PTO carb choke cable. Finally got that off after 45 minutes. Going to get a new one locally hopefully.

Also started pulling the rave valves. The Mag rave valve hit the exhaust so I stopped with that one for now. Had to do more research about it. Realized I can remove it without removing the exhaust so that's nice. Pulled the PTO rave valve off as well as what I thought was a third rave valve but was actually the water regulator valve. Found this (after I cleaned it off). The clip had rusted completely and punctured the boot. Have a new boot in the cart.

That's all I got for today. Sunday, I'll pull the other rave valve off, clean both, reinstall and adjust both. I'll also pull the carbs on the 96. That's probably as far as I'll get. After that, I'll remove the gas and oil tanks from both skis and clean them both then toss them back in. Then it's a waiting game for parts to get these suckers finished up. Once I get the carbs off the 96, I should have a list of any and all parts I need to order so I'll place the order then.

 

[mikidymac]

The air box gasket won’t cause any running issues but could cause water ingestion potentially.

 

[95C1500]

Long story short, carbs do in fact NEED to be rebuilt. I figured they would but was hopeful they could just be cleaned.

Saw a post on the two stroke seadoo facebook page and built a couple of dollies. The Seadoos are in the garage and out of the elements for the time being. Thanks to Nick (the OSD guy).

Pulled the carbs off both skis the other day. Today I grabbed the low and high speed setting off both sets of carbs. The high speed was basically where it should be on all but the 97 PTO carb. Everything was a touch off bottomed out. The low speed screws were all off. The 96's were 2 and 1 5/8 turns (should have been 1 1/4) and the 97's were both 1 3/4 (should have been 1).

This is where it all fell apart. The pop off tester I built ended up being built incorrectly. Whoops. I pieced together another one. Anyway, the mag carb on the 96 had a pop off of 25 psi (should be between 40 and 56). The PTO carb had a huge air leak out of the pump cover. The 97's mag carb needle and seat has a huge air leak. The PTO had 38 psi pop off (should be between 23 and 43). So I decided I just need to rebuild them after all, like everyone said. Now to wait for the rebuild kits to be back in stock.

In the mean time, I've got some other things I can do. I'm still waiting on fuel valves and filters.

That's all I've got for this one.

 

[Major Woody]

Keep at it. By the time these have been gone through, you'll be very well versed on how these things work. "They say" you don't really HAVE to check the pop-off on a rebuilt carb...that if you use all the correct parts and install them properly, the chances that the pop-off will be out of range are very low. I check mine though. To me, it's worth it because you're also making sure they'll hold pressure and that the needle/seat situation is as it should be.

 

[95C1500]

Keep at it. By the time these have been gone through, you'll be very well versed on how these things work. "They say" you don't really HAVE to check the pop-off on a rebuilt carb...that if you use all the correct parts and install them properly, the chances that the pop-off will be out of range are very low. I check mine though. To me, it's worth it because you're also making sure they'll hold pressure and that the needle/seat situation is as it should be.

I already feel like I know what I'm doing with my head shoved in the hull of these things. Forums are fantastic resources. I'll check pop off anyway since I spent the time and money making a pop off tester haha.