95 XP Drive Shaft Failure

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Ski did great previously, however while WOT the ski very suddenly lost all power, engine could rev but all I heard was a gut wrenching rattle/grind, quickly shut that down and swam to shore

Engine PTO boot to driveshaft was demolished (not sure why it would fail in this moment?)
Driveshaft splines were visible outside of the PTO

I took the pump off and was able to push the driveshaft about a quarter-to-half inch into the PTO, but the shaft would still spin freely by hand; only at odd angles and pressure would it begin to actually catch the PTO (barely)

My main question:
Is it more likely my driveshaft splines are stripped? Or my PTO? Or both?
I find it odd that this happened instantly and not at least somewhat gradually

Does anyone have an in-depth step-by-step on how to remove a 95' carrier bearing? Its much different than my 96' GSX and I'm having difficulty figuring out how it works
Once I can get the shaft out I can figure out which part is stripped

20200529_202958.jpg

Bonus question: Since it is likely I will need to replace my driveshaft, is it possible to use a post 95' shaft (i.e. my 96 GSX shaft) and then be able to use the updated carbon ring and bellow assembly? The pumps seem identical to each other
 
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Typically happens from broken engine mounts so check all 4 and the bedplate bolts.

Yes shaft and PTO will likely be toast.

Really no reason to change to the carbon seal and quite a few people prefer your carrier bearing seal.
 
I'll check those, I've never really messed around with the mounting so I'm not exactly sure what to look for, I tried shaking, twisting, and push/pulling the engine in different directions but it did not budge

My guess is that the previous owner didn't put the rubber driveshaft bumper back on before inserting the shaft, we'll see

For disassembly, does the carrier bearing just slide off? Can I just slide the shaft out? I tried pulling it but not super hard

Once it's out, for reassembly does the carrier bearing just slide back on? Or do I have to rebuild it?
I found a carrier bearing rebuild kit on OSDparts and also a pre-assembled carrier bearing for only $15 more, or is this not even necessary as mine seems to be in good shape (no leaking)

Looks like I found my PTO and Drive Shaft on OSDparts as well
 
Once you’ve got the pump off, you can just pull the driveshaft out of the hull. There is no c-clip or o-ring like on the carbon ring carriers. Once it out, just loosen the rear clamp on the carrier bearing hose and you can pull it off of the thru hull fitting. It’s super simple working with this style carrier...
 
Yes if it looks good then it could be greased an reused. Don’t over grease or you can pop the seals out by accident.
 
Yes if it looks good then it could be greased an reused. Don’t over grease or you can pop the seals out by accident.
I read about that, do I stop when it starts to push back a little pressure? I assume the stock seals are both the strong ones as opposed one being weaker to let out excess grease and air
 
If you do wind up needing to replace it, OSD has a carrier available with a single lip seal on the PTO side to allow grease to escape when it’s full. It’s a few extra dollars, but it’s worth it in my book...
 
Determined that the driveshaft splines were indeed stripped, the PTO looked great, bought a new carrier bearing as well

I rebuilt the pump with a new wear ring and nosecone

New problem
the driveshaft was extremely difficult to place inside the PTO, and the shaft makes contact with the bottom of the through hole, but from the outside the end of the shaft looks to be perfectly in the center, and slipping the pump on was easy. Once the pump was put on, turning the engine over shaved grooves into my wear ring where as before the shaft was involved, the impeller spun freely by hand not making contact with the wear ring

Is my engine out of alignment?

20200607_124017.jpg20200607_124024.jpg20200607_124034.jpg
 
I don't have an alignment tool, however I did read another post on this site explaining how to make your own tool that works pretty well for a fraction of the cost

I just eye balled my alignment, it's much much better than before, I raised the rear of the engine with some washers and OEM shims

Yes I am aware that if it is not perfect my driveshaft and other parts will not last as long, for now I'm willing to accept this

Picture of a successful weekend and first time having both skis out on the water at the same time

20200614_160507.jpg
 
I don't have an alignment tool, however I did read another post on this site explaining how to make your own tool that works pretty well for a fraction of the cost

I just eye balled my alignment, it's much much better than before, I raised the rear of the engine with some washers and OEM shims

Yes I am aware that if it is not perfect my driveshaft and other parts will not last as long, for now I'm willing to accept this

Picture of a successful weekend and first time having both skis out on the water at the same time

View attachment 48935
Based on what I'm seeing I would have assumes that your engine was too high and that you would have needed to remove spacers to acheive proper alignment. I'm getting ready to do my alignment soon and want to verify that the shaft should be above, below, or centered in height under its own weight when inserted in the pto. Thanks!
 
Based on what I'm seeing I would have assumes that your engine was too high and that you would have needed to remove spacers to acheive proper alignment. I'm getting ready to do my alignment soon and want to verify that the shaft should be above, below, or centered in height under its own weight when inserted in the pto. Thanks!
The engine was too low imo, I raised it with washers and shims, just washers will do honestly, tie some fishing line to them to make installing easier
 
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