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SOLUTION

Constant cranking was from the bad MPEM, bad MPEM was also fried from previous owner using a jump pack on it (5amp fuse immediately blowing) Replacment MPEM works

Issue with no power to MPEM but was able to crank by shorting solenoid was due to loose positive lead connection to the battery terminal, enough to crank but not solid enough to power on the MPEM. Ski now turns over and powers on by start/stop button as normal.

I must perform that ball valve modification, after I do so is there a better way to empty the cylinders/crank of oil besides turning it over and blasting it out of the spark plug holes? (Like an oil drain plug)

For reference to those this may help, here are my ohm readings for the new MPEM
Pictures are in order of table contents


c82c674270de3365a2761881e6ef3966.png
Red ring to red female
20190920_181517_001.jpg
Red ring to red/purple female
20190920_181602.jpg
Red ring to black ring
20190920_181640.jpg
Black/red to black ring
20190920_181748.jpg
White/grey to black ring
20190920_181846.jpg
Tan/black to black ring
20190920_181944.jpg
Yellow/red to black ring
20190920_182037.jpg
Yellow/red male housing to black ring
20190920_182208.jpg
Black ring to red ring
20190920_182304.jpg
 
Installing the ball valve is a common repair, that works. I would repair the oil problem first, so that oil is not leaking into your cylinders while you are trying to solve your electrical issues. Definitely work backwards ( follow the voltage)
from the positive side of the selenoid, into your electrical box.
I'm looking for something like this correct?
Screenshot_20190921-110628.png
Would I toggle it open before or after I start the engine? Closed before or after I turn off the engine?
Happen to have a picture of the exact oil line I would be attaching it to?
 
Installing the ball valve is a common repair, that works. I would repair the oil problem first, so that oil is not leaking into your cylinders while you are trying to solve your electrical issues. Definitely work backwards ( follow the voltage)
from the positive side of the selenoid, into your electrical box.
fixing the oil leak would mean new crank, cheapest solution is the check valve. No power from mpem sounds like a wire isn't exactly right. Just be sure to leave the key somewhere so that another rider, or you dont forget to switch the oil back on.
 
fixing the oil leak would mean new crank, cheapest solution is the check valve. No power from mpem sounds like a wire isn't exactly right. Just be sure to leave the key somewhere so that another rider, or you dont forget to switch the oil back on.
Yeah I'm not quite too keen on the idea of rebuilding this engine, I would just send it in to SBT as a core and get a remanufactured unit. I'm going to try the valve mod, I'm persistent with routine so I shouldn't forget to turn the valve, attaching the key lanyard to the valve inside the bilge would be a good idea to ensure it's looked at each time. Do you know how I could drain the engine of its oil? I don't think cranking it out of the spark plug holes would be enough
 
No, you can’t drain the engine.

The ball valve is only a temporary fix as eventually the seals will leak so much even the ballvalve won’t help.

The only fix is a reman crankshaft.
 
UPDATE

After installing the ball valve on the oil line, blasting out all the oil from the cylinders (this took a long, long time) running soapy water though the exhaust system and cleaning the whole thing out, the ski runs! Not only that but this was last season right before winter, and still now 8 months later the ski starts up and doesn't have a build up of oil in the cylinders!

she's ready to hit the water for a test run, can't wait to figure out whats wrong with her next!
 
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