95 sportster, Any thoughts on these issues? Please help! Looking to buy today

[InDebtJet]

I found a 95 sportster on the trailer, the guy wants 600 bucks.

He said they were out driving around and all the sudden it felt like they dropped a cylinder and lost power. It starts right up but spits injector oil out the exhaust and has a miss when you push the throttle. Also there is a rubber seal or gasket around the shaft at the back of the engine that exits the boat that is kind of torn up, what is this called?

The hull is perfect, it needs upholstrey, like every other one ive read about on here like this. Im thinking best case, clogged lines (the oil line tht is on the exhaust is visibly dark at one end and clear at the other ? Rings ? Something in the intake ? Worst case, rebuild ? Please let me know what you think! I've been searching and reading all morning and last night. This is a great site with a lot of useful information!

Thanks to all, Kyle

heres the ad

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/rvs/1755090939.html

 

[pincusa]

I'm fairly local to this boat, but dont' worry, I'm not going to outbid you.

Do a compression test on both cyl. Make sure it doesn't have a blown engine. Best case, it's a carb rebuild and that gets you going again. If everything looks good offer him $500. You could maybe part it out for close to that.

If you're looking for a interior guy, I just had mine done by someone in Montgomery who did a great job.

 

[InDebtJet]

Thanks for the reply. We were thinking of offering 500. Where should the compression be for each cylinder? this is the single engine 717 i believe. Which interior guy did you use? RDee's?

 

[pincusa]

Compression should be the same in both cyl to show that the motor is balanced and no cyl has issues. I don't know the 717, but I'd think 150PSI to be ideal, 120-140 normal for a used engine, and below 110-120 to have some issues. (someone could correct me on that)

I used Ralphs for the interior work

 

[InDebtJet]

Alright sounds good man, thank you. Pm the info for ralphs if youd care to take a minute. I appreciate your help

 

[Dr Honda]

For $600 you can't go wrong. You have a few thousand in parts as long as the drive and controls aren't all torn up.


OK... that boat has a 657x motor in it. If it has a 720... someone swapped it in. The spec on the compression is 150 psi. Anything over 135 psi should make it drive, and run just fine. Anything below 130, and it may not have the power to really push you around.


OK... my thoughts. The guy doesn't have the registration for it, and doesn't know whats wrong other than he can't play with it anymore. I think you may find it's something simple.

First... it has a rev limiter, and if you throttle it up on the trailer... it will hit it fast, so you can't judge engine quality on the trailer.


Worst case on the engine is a rebuild. But, along with that, you may need to rebuild the pump, and drive shaft seal too.

Now... the black rubber thing on the drive shaft. That's the drive shaft seal. If it's leaking... the engine will rev up, and the boat won't go anywhere since all it will be doing is sucking in air from the engine compartment.


If you want a boat, and you can do your own work... you can have a nice boat for about $1500 with that one. ($2500 if you need a new engine)

 

[InDebtJet]

Thats great info guys, exactly what I was trying to find out. Any way to tell if the pump is burned up? Do you have to pull the motor to change that seal? Any thoughts on the injector oil comming out the exhaust?

Thanks again,

Kyle

 

[Dr Honda]

Thats great info guys, exactly what I was trying to find out. Any way to tell if the pump is burned up? Do you have to pull the motor to change that seal? Any thoughts on the injector oil comming out the exhaust?

Thanks again,

Kyle

You remove the pump, and slide the drive shaft out to replace the drive shaft seal. It's not hard to do. Removal of the engine is not needed.

The oil out the exhaust is kind of normal for an older engine. The rotary valve seals can leak, and when they do, they leak into the crankcase. When you start it up... it pukes out the tail pipe. Normally this will clear up in a few minutes. BUT... in the time it takes to purge it out... you can foul a plug. (possible problem of why it isn't running right)

 

[InDebtJet]

You remove the pump, and slide the drive shaft out to replace the drive shaft seal. It's not hard to do. Removal of the engine is not needed.

The oil out the exhaust is kind of normal for an older engine. The rotary valve seals can leak, and when they do, they leak into the crankcase. When you start it up... it pukes out the tail pipe. Normally this will clear up in a few minutes. BUT... in the time it takes to purge it out... you can foul a plug. (possible problem of why it isn't running right)

Wow you really got this stuff down! I called the seller and told him I was going to come do a compression test and he said he would save me the trip and do it for me, but I could come double check it if I wanted. He got 127 in one cylinder and 132 in the other, just under what you said is the lowest you'd want to be. Both cylinders are def firing though and the compression is close which leads me to no believe his dropped cylinder idea. Any new thoughts before I go get it? thanks ,Kyle

 

[Dr Honda]

Get the boat, and if you just want to run it... slap in some new rings, and make sure the oil injection is working. You can probably get a season out of it, then do a proper rebuild in the winter.

 

[pincusa]

Tony - we think alike. Almost the same thing I told him in a PM! :rofl:

Can't go wrong for that price.

 

[InDebtJet]

Just an update, we purchased the boat and are excited about it! Thanks to tony and aaron's advice we should have a nice little boat! Thanks again guys, going to start working on it soon. Yet anotherrr project haha

Kyle

 

[Dr Honda]

post up some pics.