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94 XP Rebuild

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Hi guys,

Just picked up a 94 XP for $100 with a trailer. Going to need some help along the way with this one. Can someone help me with the fuel selector knob on the dash. The sticker that was on there has been removed. I know that it is off, reserve and on but which one is which? Any help would be appreciated. Compression test is my next step. What is optimal compression? If I remember right it was 150 and 130 is ok as long as they are within 10 lbs of each other.

Thanks,
Matt
 
Hi guys,

Just picked up a 94 XP for $100 with a trailer. Going to need some help along the way with this one. Can someone help me with the fuel selector knob on the dash. The sticker that was on there has been removed. I know that it is off, reserve and on but which one is which? Any help would be appreciated. Compression test is my next step. What is optimal compression? If I remember right it was 150 and 130 is ok as long as they are within 10 lbs of each other.

Thanks,
Matt
On is left, reserve is right off is down. At least according to the picture I have on my phone.

You are correct on the PSI numbers.

Post some pics!

I ride the 94 xp 657x as well, my everyday ride. I have done a few tweaks to get more performance out of it. I'll try to remember all I did but we are well into sled season and I'm tweaking the 700 for 110 mph.20201126_101535.jpg
 
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Thanks AK. Much appreciated! After some tinkering I was able to get it to start up. Has a bunch of other issues I will need to address before she is seaworthy. Next up I have to fix what used to be the carbon ring. I pulled the pump and driveshaft. Will probably grab the parts after Christmas. I had a tough time pulling it out. The PO must have used glue or some crazy amount of sealant. The sealant that was used was silver. I was under the impression that only the neoprene seal was needed. Do I need to get some sealant for the hull to pump attachment? Some of the other issues that will need to be addressed are the VTS is not working and it looks like both gauges are not working. Also the previous owner said that when the carbon seal went the rubber spun and grabbed a wire from the front. I cannot see or figure out what that could be. Any ideas would be helpful. It starts fine so I am pretty sure it is not a gas line. I also have one gray gas line to switch out. I am hoping this was a steal at $100 with the trailer. Thanks again guys for all your help.
 
1 - you don't have a carbon ring on that machine, it uses the old carrier bearing with seals assembly. You can't put a carbon ring assembly onto that machine since the driveshaft doesn't have a groove milled into it. Just buy a new carrier assembly since a new aftermarket is less money than buying the individual parts and rebuilding it.

2 - scrape all that sealant off the pump and hull for the jet pump. Put in a new neoprene ring seal and you should not have any more trouble getting the pump off. I only use the smallest amount of sealant around the three plastic tubes on the pump, just a light bead at the base to fill any void between them and the holes in the hull they go through.

3 - what is the line that got wound up in the driveline????? Good question. My 94 xp is under three feet of snow right now or I would go look to see what lines exist there. Take a picture of it and post it. If it isn't a wire, but a plastic/rubber tube, my first guess would be it's a battery vent line but I don't recall that line going to the rear on the xp/sp hull of that generation.

As for the electrical? Considering I'm an electrician I am not that good at trouble shooting problems on machines. I would say start by double checking all the fuses in the electrical box, pull the inner panel on the hood and hook/unhook all the connections to clean exercise the connections, do the same to all the connections in the hull around the gas tank/steering column area. Do the basic checks and exercise of connections then start searching deeper if things are not working.

I had my 94 xp shut off on me 30 miles up river from town, in the "wilds of Alaska". No one around, no help, no roads, nothing. I had my shop manual on my phone (no cell service) and I traced out all my circuits, exercised all my connections and it started. Of course it would have been a beautiful float back to the launch.

Post that line picture.
 
OSD Marine.

If it's only the carrier assembly that is damaged.
 

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OSD again.

If the rubber tube and hull fitting are damaged. Sometimes the hull casting the rubber tube is attached to can crack, this is the kit to fix that problem.
 

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Take your time doing the work, be meticulous in cleaning and details, don't cut corners (buy mikuni carb redbuild kits only).

My 94 was given to me as a total mess. Pump was dry dust inside, crank pistons and cylinders were shot, carbs were UGLY inside. Today it's my everyday (summer time) ride and I do run it hard.

 
Thanks AK. I will definitely do that. She's under a foot of snow now so it will be after Christmas at least. I also had the boot on the steering cable crumble in my hand. I will have to replace that. Can you get that separately or do I have to get a whole new cable? Here are some pics of what it looked like before I took the pump and driveshaft out.
 

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Definitely the carrier bearing/seal locked up and took out the rubber. Typically when this happens it destroys the fiberglass through hull fitting.
 
Definitely the carrier bearing/seal locked up and took out the rubber. Typically when this happens it destroys the fiberglass through hull fitting.

I think that is exactly what happened. No hint of the thru hull fitting or pieces. Was the original just fiberglass and the replacement is metal? What is the best sealant to use on that?
 
You need to "keep up" on the old carrier bearing style thru hull seal. A shot of grease every once and a while is required or the bearing will fail.
 
I’ll be all over it after seeing what happens when you don’t. Any recommendations on grease? I have Lucas Oil Marine grease but I will grab something else if it is better.
 
I am looking for a part number. It is the small rubber boot that is on the steering cable. It is the last one before it mounts to the steering cone. I am not sure if this is needed or not but it disintegrated in my hand. Thanks guys!
 
Take your time doing the work, be meticulous in cleaning and details, don't cut corners (buy mikuni carb redbuild kits only).

My 94 was given to me as a total mess. Pump was dry dust inside, crank pistons and cylinders were shot, carbs were UGLY inside. Today it's my everyday (summer time) ride and I do run it hard.


Your youtube channel should be BIG for all the awesome places you get to ride.
 
Like I say in the description for all my you tube videos "don't take it seriously". I enjoy showing where I'm at and the fun I have, but it's not at all an ego thing to make myself look like something I'm not. I'm just having fun.
 
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