94 XP had 4-stroke 5-30w put in it

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djcalied

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So some of you may have seen my first post here, about me being a pwc noob. The replies were very helpful so thank you all, this is a great community.

Well the XP had a full oil tank and I am an idiot for not noticing the clear oil lines the whole time. I saw it had a full tank of oil and didn't think about it (looked dark)... IT WAS ACTUALLY REGULAR AUTO OIL IN THERE PROBABLY 5-30 OR ROTTELLA. Luckily I noticed before putting it on the water. Only ran less than 5 mins for testing time on the trailer. Nothing catastrophic happened yet. It'll still fire up if I hit start (not that I would right now), and it actually sounded good the last time I ran it for 30 seconds or so before knowing it had motor oil in there.

SO. Obviously I have siphoned out the oil, and plan to replace the lines, filter, and clean the tank out.

Should I just buy a new oil pump to be safe? How do I go about flushing/testing the current one? Is it really that important not to have air in the oil lines... What happens?

Can anyone link me to an oem oil filter? I ordered this one in frustration just want to be sure it's good. https://www.amazon.com/SeaDoo-Separ...ne+oil+filter&qid=1566247513&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
How do you know the oil was 5W-30 for sure? The seadoo mineral oil is the same golden color.

Drain the tank and the rotary cavity on the engine.
No reason to change the oil pump.
Bleed the system correctly and you can premix the first fuel tank with the correct oil if you want, 50:1 should be fine.
Once the lines and bleed screw are bled with the ski idling hold the oil pump lever wide open until you see the new oil pulse it's way into the little 3/32" injector lines, now the system is full of the correct oil and good to go.
 
How do you know the oil was 5W-30 for sure? The seadoo mineral oil is the same golden color.

Drain the tank and the rotary cavity on the engine.
No reason to change the oil pump.
Bleed the system correctly and you can premix the first fuel tank with the correct oil if you want, 50:1 should be fine.
Once the lines and bleed screw are bled with the ski idling hold the oil pump lever wide open until you see the new oil pulse it's way into the little 3/32" injector lines, now the system is full of the correct oil and good to go.

Thanks for the info!

Well, I hadnt heard of seadoo mineral oil until now. Judging by how everything else the PO did as far as up-keep... I doubt it was mineral oil. How could I possibly tell? If it was mineral oil can I just dump some tc-api in there and be good to go?
 
I just got a 98 gs from my neighbor for 800. I know practically nothing about skis except what I’ve been reading here.

It has a dark blue/green oil in the tank that I’m sure is tc w3. I know it’s been run for a few hours with that oil at the very least. How bad is that for the motor?

I would have kept running tc-w3 if I didn’t come here. ADB31ABD-BF1A-4BD1-B02F-B3EFA3D1C1B9.jpeg
 
How are you sure it's tcw3? Regardless it's probably be fine if you just drained the tank, don't think bleeding and swapping lines would be necessary imo.

I used the Quicksilver pwc 2stroke oil from Walmart have no problems with it
 
How are you sure it's tcw3? Regardless it's probably be fine if you just drained the tank, don't think bleeding and swapping lines would be necessary imo.

My neighbor told me he ordered pennzoil 2 stroke online.

I believe I just read that mixing the two could result in gelling.

Regardless it’s going to come in the basement for the winter and I’ll replace all fuel oil and vacuum lines.

I used the Quicksilver pwc 2stroke oil from Walmart have no problems with it
 
How are you sure it's tcw3? Regardless it's probably be fine if you just drained the tank, don't think bleeding and swapping lines would be necessary imo.

I used the Quicksilver pwc 2 stroke oil from Walmart have no problems with it
No, you can't mix different oils as it can gel and plug the filter starving the engine of oil.

You need to drain and clean the tank, drain the rotary cavity, replace the filter and bleed the lines and pump.

Refill with only API-TC oil. If your engine is 720cc and smalley you don't need full synthetic. IF it is 787cc and larger you have to use full synthetic.
 
Would only gel up if it was left to sit afterwards though?

The oil filter I just replaced on mine I'm sure has been through some shit including having 4 stroke and 2 stroke oil run thru it, still wasn't clogged lol. Purely anecdotal though I know
 
No, you can't mix different oils as it can gel and plug the filter starving the engine of oil.

You need to drain and clean the tank, drain the rotary cavity, replace the filter and bleed the lines and pump.

Refill with only API-TC oil. If your engine is 720cc and smalley you don't need full synthetic. IF it is 787cc and larger you have to use full synthetic.


From what I have read, It seems you have a little bit of knowledge.

I’m assuming I have a 720 from the specs I read about sea doo models. A50C0ACB-8EF4-4C73-B38E-94A08CE4E7E3.jpeg54832721-7A84-48BD-930D-D03D6228ECCE.jpeg93DBD047-A228-49E6-9ACD-4DD2BDFB9CF5.jpeg

Is a 98 gs worth doing any real work to?
 
Yes that’s a 720 and a great reliable ski.

You can run any API-TC rated oil, Seadoo XPS Carb 2T, Mystic, Lucas and Amsoil.
 
Would only gel up if it was left to sit afterwards though?

The oil filter I just replaced on mine I'm sure has been through some shit including having 4 stroke and 2 stroke oil run thru it, still wasn't clogged lol. Purely anecdotal though I know

No, it can gel immediately.
Risking a seized engine on a $10 oil filter is just not a good idea in my opinion.
 
I just noticed your air filter.
I would suggest getting the OEM air box as that filter can suck in water, doesn’t add any performance and it doesn’t have a carb brace can crack the intake manifold.

Also if your carb wasn’t rejetted for that air cleaner you are running lean and risking the engine.
 
I just noticed your air filter.
I would suggest getting the OEM air box as that filter can suck in water, doesn’t add any performance and it doesn’t have a carb brace can crack the intake manifold.

Also if your carb wasn’t rejetted for that air cleaner you are running lean and risking the engine.

Thanks

I was wondering about that filter.
I’ll look for a factory box and filter. I’ll check the plugs also.

After posting those pics I saw it said 717 on the motor tag.
 
Nick and Jess at westside powersports seadoo will sell you the entire airbox and support bracket pretty cheap. Just tell them you need everything including the bolts.
 
Nick and Jess at westside powersports seadoo will sell you the entire airbox and support bracket pretty cheap. Just tell them you need everything including the bolts.
Thanks
They look pretty cool, just checked out their website. Really liked the tips section.

I should start a build thread to ask noob questions, so I can stop hi jacking this one.
 
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