chamilton89
Active Member
So XP has spark. Was able to jump it with the car (yes car was off) No VTS or gauges that I could tell. Next is a carb rebuild, pump oil and new gas and oil lines.
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
RESTO 94 XP and 94 SPI restoration
- Thread starter chamilton89
- Start date
- Status
chamilton89
Active Member
Nope, everything seemed pretty loose and no obstructions with turning it by hand. I cranked for about 2 seconds, just to verify spark. Although now that I said that, I am going to do it again and verify compression.
digital sol
Member
I would recommend you put some down the spark plug holes before cranking. Even its not seized its a good idea to lube anything that's been sitting that long before cranking it over.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yep, definitely oil those cylinders and a little down the intakes onto the rotary valve wouldn't hurt either, man! 2-strokes live on lube. Beware, the bottom end might be flooded in oil leaking from the tank past the crank seals while sitting who knows how long. So, be prepared for a shower when cranking without plugs in the jugs.
Get rid of the stale fuel, bad news for 2-strokes.
Nice, you lucked out on the wear rings... They must be in great shape, like new and tight, eh?
Get rid of the stale fuel, bad news for 2-strokes.
Nice, you lucked out on the wear rings... They must be in great shape, like new and tight, eh?
chamilton89
Active Member
Replaced the little oil lines why I had the rotary valve tore apart and oiled it on both sides before I put it back together. Good compression, 130 and 135 and its 25 degrees out. Carbs look freshly rebuilt actually or I guess it's possible the ski just has very few hours on it. Lastly I may have spoke too soon about the wear ring. Seems to have just shrunk over time. Can corrosion get behind a wear ring and push it out? The real question is can j get away with putting the pump back together and starting it with 15 pounds or so of load just from the friction against the wear ring or does it really need to spin freely? I'm hoping just be running the motor the impeller will make its own wear ring clearance but I don't want to hurt the starter or driveshaft splines. Let me know what you guys think.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
yes man, BEFORE you crank that or the other another time, I'd AT LEAST spray some fogging oil for a few seconds inside BOTH spark plug holes..You may get a bunch of smoke on startup, but its WORTH it.
Also, you can get a wear ring for around $30. IMO, I wouldn't leave a compressed, old wear ring inside the pump assembly if the thing is ALREADY grazing the impeller, I'd replace it... Not worth the risk, and, it would also help any cavitation issues the ski may have..
Also, you can get a wear ring for around $30. IMO, I wouldn't leave a compressed, old wear ring inside the pump assembly if the thing is ALREADY grazing the impeller, I'd replace it... Not worth the risk, and, it would also help any cavitation issues the ski may have..
chamilton89
Active Member
What sucks is the ring looks damn near pristine. I know the ring is going to be a nightmare to get out but I suppose, if you think it's best I could just replace it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chamilton89
Active Member
Oh, and I did dump some 2 stroke down and spun it by hand, should be nice and coated now I would think.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chamilton89
Active Member
Yup, had the pump on the bench for a couple of days. Impeller looks great and bearings are in good shape the wear ring had very little to no damage. The entire wear ring has shrunk uniformly and makes contact with the impeller almost everywhere. It's tight, too tight. Just was thinking the impeller would wear enough away rather quickly to spin pretty freely.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes, it's pretty common for a new wear ring to drag on the impeller initially upon install. The tighter the better, of course but too tight and it's difficult to start the engine. The final clearance between the impeller and wear ring should hopefully be no more than the thickness of a dime, the pump loses efficiency once the gap becomes greater than that and if too large you will experience cavitation (Cavitation is high RPM causes large enough vacuum at edge of impeller blades and water boils due to negative pressure). Impeller ventilation happens when air leaks into the jet pump from somewhere it shouldn't be coming, under normal conditions.
Any, in the case a new wear ring is tight against an impeller, it helps to loosly attach the jet pump (so as to avoid "crushing" the wear ring) AND to lube it up well using straight dish soap (my preference) or some 2-stroke oil until the 1st startup then impeller will grind off the necessary amount of wear ring till it doesn't rub anymore.
So if you can get it started with that wear ring, you should be golden.
But, if the wear ring is actually delaminating, then it might just fall apart and shred
Any, in the case a new wear ring is tight against an impeller, it helps to loosly attach the jet pump (so as to avoid "crushing" the wear ring) AND to lube it up well using straight dish soap (my preference) or some 2-stroke oil until the 1st startup then impeller will grind off the necessary amount of wear ring till it doesn't rub anymore.
So if you can get it started with that wear ring, you should be golden.
But, if the wear ring is actually delaminating, then it might just fall apart and shred
Last edited by a moderator:
chamilton89
Active Member
Exactly what I was hoping. I believe it is the OEM ring that came with the boat. I believe more and more that this ski had very little use and thus everything seems almost brand new. Figured the first run would quickly wear the ring down to proper fitment. Thanks for chiming in.
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
Interesting... I know I had a hard time removing my old wear ring as well, and used dish soap to install it.. I know it was within OEM tolerance when installed, but definitely didn't rub.. I was able to spin the impeller without binding.. However, mine was an SBT one, genuine seadoo replacements are probably even tighter fitting.. I guess if other people have started their skis with the wear ring touching a little with no peoblems, then give it a try..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chamilton89
Active Member
Yeah yeah, I know I need to work on the pictures. That being said, I think these pictures show how tight the ring is around the impeller. No gap at all but very little wear on the ring too, no lip at all.
chamilton89
Active Member
So moving forward, think I can get away with the current ring for a few seasons wants it wears in or just replace it now?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chamilton89
Active Member
I was afraid you were going to say that. You do make a good point through. Racerxxx, you mind re-titling the thread 94 XP STI Restoration ? Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chamilton89
Active Member
I appreciate it. Alright, new wear rings all around after thanks giving. They also both still have the original tempo fuel lines so I will be replacing those and replacing the oil lines, filters and blue oil since I have no idea where it's from. Then I should be ready to fire it up and see how they run. That's all a few weeks off however. I will continue to update as I go 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chamilton89
Active Member
Well guys, everything was going great until I got in my own way. Today I was testing all the electrical systems and wired in the digital LCD fuel gauge in place for the analog one. Anyway, I was testing the tach as well by turning it over for less then a second at a time, maybe three times. I then realized the paper towel I had jammed into the intake because I haven't gotten the carbs installed yet got partially eaten by the rotary valve and I am sure there is a little bit rolling around the crank now... Seems like tomorrow I get to spend my day removing the intake and rotary valve and spinning the thing by hand to see if I can find any little bits of paper towel that got sucked in. SHIT.
chamilton89
Active Member
I guess I'm asking, one a scale from 1 don't worry about it to 10 tear the case apart and go fishing, how concerned should I be?
- Status
